Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,083
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Sealer can actually cause a leak as it gums up the O rings.
Still showing EAS fault beeping etc, changed the pump and the block, anyone know what tube it is on the block for the f/o/s is? have to change that next, sat in it for 5 mins with the engine on, didn't seem to rise at all, maybe because the tank is empty should have waited longer? I dont know
Still showing EAS fault beeping etc, changed the pump and the block, anyone know what tube it is on the block for the f/o/s is? have to change that next, sat in it for 5 mins with the engine on, didn't seem to rise at all, maybe because the tank is empty should have waited longer? I dont know
No 4 green reset faults you have changed block and pump
About 10 minutes was your pump pumping think not with eas fault beeping
thought it wasnt pumping at all thats why i mentiond resetting faults but your is pumping thats a startSeems to be pumping, will un do that nut at the bottom 2morrow (raining now) and stick finger over it
reset? did I miss something, how do I do that?
if any thing you need to check the tank is filling upJust a thought, if I detach the pipes, and air comes out of them, then the pump and the block are working ok? as its holding air? (but then I wont know id its 150psi I know) but it will give me a clue as to if air is going in or not wont it??
thought it wasnt pumping at all thats why i mentiond resetting faults but your is pumping thats a start
if any thing you need to check the tank is filling up
Do I just pull a pipe for that, and it comes out so I know there's air in it or not??
But I did the diaphragm look fine
The block I just took out (old one) I have replaced the solenoid for the f/o/s changed all the O rings in it, (I may put it back on) do you think I should do ALL of them (solenoid) and put this block back??
I looked at the how to, it doesn't tell you how to check the diaphragm in the block, dow do I go about that?? (I changed it last year) when I looked at it, no holes or splits in is, and I smelt it for std, but no fish smell from it, after all its a diaphragm, so it has protection (or is that getting pregnant??)
The block I just took out (old one) I have replaced the solenoid for the f/o/s changed all the O rings in it, (I may put it back on) do you think I should do ALL of them (solenoid) and put this block back??
I looked at the how to, it doesn't tell you how to check the diaphragm in the block, dow do I go about that?? (I changed it last year) when I looked at it, no holes or splits in is, and I smelt it for std, but no fish smell from it, after all its a diaphragm, so it has protection (or is that getting pregnant??)
Never seen one fill an empty tank in 6 minutes, allow 10 or moreIt does .
remove exhaust outlet filter from valve block. White cylindrical screw in unit to rear of valve block. With compressor running place a finger over outlet. If air is escaping, either diaphragm has failed (common fail) or diaphragm solenoid valve (above exhaust port on block) has failed (very rare). If all checks out compressor is making good air and should inflate tank in five or six minutes.
Never seen one fill an empty tank in 6 minutes, allow 10 or more
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