Vague steering after replacing drop arm ball joint

Hi,

I replaced the drop arm ball joint yesterday (what fun...) on my 1989 2.5 td 90, now the steering seems to have become less accurate. I can move the steering wheel 1/8 - 1/4 a turn without the wheels moving. On examination underneath, the ball joint/ steering arm is moving (ie the ball flexing in its seat), but not enough to get the rods mobile.
Have I screwed up the fitting? Not tightened enough?
Has it just uncovered a dodgy damper?
Is this what LR steering is supposed to feel like ? (Because it was more accurate with the knackered ball joint!!)

Thanks

Did it do that before?

Is it power or manual? I'm not sure how much of a difference it makes but there's an adjustment screw on top of the steering box. I'd asked on here before about my wandering steering after replacing bits and bobs and was told to tighten or slacken the adjustment screw to take any play out of the steering. It worked a treat but be careful not to overtighten it otherwise it could lead to premature wear on the worm inside.

It's held in place by a (I believe) 15mm locknut and mine was a #### to get moving. Try tightening the screw a bit at a time and checking it till play is gone and hopefully that should sort it

the_wolf said:

Is it power or manual? I'm not sure how much of a difference it makes but there's an adjustment screw on top of the steering box. I'd asked on here before about my wandering steering after replacing bits and bobs and was told to tighten or slacken the adjustment screw to take any play out of the steering. It worked a treat but be careful not to overtighten it otherwise it could lead to premature wear on the worm inside.

It's held in place by a (I believe) 15mm locknut and mine was a #### to get moving. Try tightening the screw a bit at a time and checking it till play is gone and hopefully that should sort it

Click to expand...

That sounds worth a punt - thanks. Didn't realise just taking the ball joint out would have quite so much effect! - sorry - its power.

Freelaner said:

Did it do that before?

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No, good as gold with the knackered, decayed, stinking old ball joint: wandering all over the place with the brand new one!

rabid spaniel said:

No, good as gold with the knackered, decayed, stinking old ball joint: wandering all over the place with the brand new one!

Click to expand...

Ok must be as Wolf said.
Unless it has something else worn that was hidden before.

Freelaner said:

Ok must be as Wolf said.
Unless it has something else worn that was hidden before.

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That is a distinct possibility! I am lavishing love on the old girl that she hadn't had for some time and every time I replace/ tidy something, something else appears to take offence at not having been dealt with.....

rabid spaniel said:

That is a distinct possibility! I am lavishing love on the old girl that she hadn't had for some time and every time I replace/ tidy something, something else appears to take offence at not having been dealt with.....

Click to expand...

Bloody Land Rovers

I think we're gonna need a bigger boat

Presumably you took the drop arm off when you replaced the ball joint?

Tighten up the bottom nut, and make sure that the washer is making good contact, and the locking washer it set properly.

I replaced mine recently as MOT pulled up free play at the output of steering box, couldn't notice it by hand - had to be done on their shaking ramp things, but I replaced bits and made sure was tightened up properly and is miles better - i always assumed it was just how land rover steering was

gse1986 said:

Presumably you took the drop arm off when you replaced the ball joint?

Tighten up the bottom nut, and make sure that the washer is making good contact, and the locking washer it set properly.

I replaced mine recently as MOT pulled up free play at the output of steering box, couldn't notice it by hand - had to be done on their shaking ramp things, but I replaced bits and made sure was tightened up properly and is miles better - i always assumed it was just how land rover steering was

Click to expand...

No - I replaced in situ. Having read all the dramas associated with getting the drop arm off I elected to leave it be and just lie underneath and crack on. So the drop arm shouldn't have been effected (and seems to move in concert with the steering wheel - its just that the ball joint swivels a touch before the rods need to move)

the_wolf said:

Is it power or manual? I'm not sure how much of a difference it makes but there's an adjustment screw on top of the steering box. I'd asked on here before about my wandering steering after replacing bits and bobs and was told to tighten or slacken the adjustment screw to take any play out of the steering. It worked a treat but be careful not to overtighten it otherwise it could lead to premature wear on the worm inside.

It's held in place by a (I believe) 15mm locknut and mine was a #### to get moving. Try tightening the screw a bit at a time and checking it till play is gone and hopefully that should sort it

Click to expand...

Just thought about this: the drop arm seems to move fine with the steering wheel; the play is between the ball joint and the rod. On that basis I am guessing that attacking the adjustment screw will make no difference and I'm back to thinking that the very old steering damper may need replacing??

I assume you mean the drag link which the drop arm ball joint attaches to? Is the track rod end on this in good knick? I can't imagine the steering damper would cause any hesitation in movement of the drag link

the_wolf said:

I assume you mean the drag link which the drop arm ball joint attaches to? Is the track rod end on this in good knick? I can't imagine the steering damper would cause any hesitation in movement of the drag link

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I do sorry, poor vocab. I will go and have a look at the track rod end when it has stopped raining and see what state it is in.

On checking it would appear that I didn't get the circlip in properly and the bottom has fallen out - that would explain things.......

:doh:
At least you know what it was

Freelaner said:

:doh:
At least you know what it was

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Thankful for small mercies! I now have to go through that PITA again, and hopefully get it right this time

rabid spaniel said:

Thankful for small mercies! I now have to go through that PITA again, and hopefully get it right this time

Click to expand...

Give it a go getting the drop arm off. I've taken mine off so far, and both times it's been splitting the ball joint from the drag link that i've struggled with more than the drop arm.

I struggled enough doing the ball joint with it off, nevermind working under the car too. Just a thought

Make sure you clean out the groove the circlip sits in. Then I used a small socket and a bottle jack to compress the cover into the joint while fitting the circlip. Bit of a faff but save struggling to get the arm off.

Yes, the circlip can spring out again even if you think it's properly seated. Since having one fall out on me, I now try to be as thorough as I can in making sure they're in as tightly as possible. For example by scraping out the groove the circlip fits into and, with a bottle jack under the cover plate to take the load of the spring, going round the circlip with a suitable drift and a hammer to tap it into place. The vibration of hitting it (gently) helps to settle it into the groove too. If it jumps out when you tap it, it probably wasn't in fully in the first place! Since adopting this procedure, I've not been the victim of any sudden experiences of vagueness out on the road.

Shifty1962 said:

Make sure you clean out the groove the circlip sits in. Then I used a small socket and a bottle jack to compress the cover into the joint while fitting the circlip. Bit of a faff but save struggling to get the arm off.

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Beaten me to it!