V8's n stuff

>
> I'll start there, trouble is, do I buy the electric kit or the points to
> begin with? ...prob elec kit...
>
> Cheers
>
> Graham
>
>

my advice would be to change points first (usually cost a couple of bucks,
or in your case a couple of pounds) just to confirm this is the cause of the
prob. Always a good idea to have the car running well before making any mods
(such as electronic ignition), that way you cna be sure wether the mod is
working properly. otherwise it may be that you've stuffed up the
modification.

Sam.

On Mon, 29 Aug 2005 21:26:46 +0000 (UTC), "Graham G" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>> The pump is in the fuel tank, so you'll need to get access from the
>> hatch in the back. Lift the pump out, you'll see a 'sock' on it, this
>> is the filter. Take it off, clean it and get a small piece of metal
>> (coathanger type is fine), bend it into a 'V' to keep the sock 'open',
>> then replace it.
>
>That sounds like a right pig to do! I'll add it to the check list though.
>Process of elimination though. Will start with the electrical bits first I
>think.

It's well worth doing sooner rather than later. Takes about an hour
to do, so not too much of a hassle.

"Graham G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

>> Also worth checking vacume advance hoses haven't come adrift or perished.
>
> Are they small pipes off the carbs about 1/4 inch diameter? If so it
> hasn't got any! The little tubes the go on are there but the pipes never
> have been. They are present on rad bod, but didn't happen to note what
> they did or where they went.

Very thin pipe (like pencil thinckness) runs from the vacuum advance retard
unit on the side of the dizzy to a orifice on the inlet manifold. The vacuum
generated in the inlet manifold under acceleration / deceleration adjusts
the unit on the side of the dizzy which alters the timing so it runs better
under acceleration / deceleration as appropriate.

HTH.

Lee D

On or around Tue, 30 Aug 2005 08:16:16 +0000 (UTC), beamendsltd
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>In message <[email protected]>
> Austin Shackles <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On or around Mon, 29 Aug 2005 21:26:46 +0000 (UTC), "Graham G"
>> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>> >
>> >Red or blue?? Who is a good supplier? Found one online who specialise in
>> >spark plugs doing a blue set delivered for £81 or a red set for £91. Figured
>> >the blue would probably be sufficient.
>>
>> blue are easier to fit; the red ones, being fatter, don't fit the plastic
>> clippy thing that the leads clip into.
>
><shameless plug>
>
>£76.37 inc VAT and delivery for blue here.....
>
></shameless plug>

not a bad price, either.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Confidence: Before important work meetings, boost your confidence by
reading a few pages from "The Tibetan Book of the Dead"
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.

On Tue, 30 Aug 2005 08:16:16 +0000 (UTC), beamendsltd
<[email protected]> wrote:

><shameless plug>
>
>£76.37 inc VAT and delivery for blue here.....
>
></shameless plug>

Hmm... including VAT and delivery? For those of us who can reclaim
the VAT, that's a very reasonable 65 quid.

I'd say the shame should go to the rip-off merchants charging the same
plus delivery then VAT...

"Graham G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I'll start there, trouble is, do I buy the electric kit or the points to
> begin with? ...prob elec kit...
>

I've had a Lumenition electronic kit on mine for about 3 years. It packed up
2 days after fitting due to a rubbish connector supplied as part of the kit
to connect the optical sensor to the ignition module - I think Lumenition
have changed the spec of them now. After changing the connector for
something better it has run perfectly ever since - holiday in Wales this
year, Norfolk last year, work and back every day, greenlaning occasionally.
It got a thorough soaking when I went wading last year in the floods and
forgot about a bloody big hole down a local track. It's funny how flat
everything looks on the surface of a flooded track, and what surprise you
get when you are reminded that the track underneath goes up and down!

However, I agree with Samuel. For a few pounds it is better to get
everything working on points first. Fitting electronic ignition just
introduces another unknown into the equation.

Andy Fox wrote:

> "Graham G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I'll start there, trouble is, do I buy the electric kit or the points to
>>begin with? ...prob elec kit...
>>
>
>
> I've had a Lumenition electronic kit on mine for about 3 years. It packed up
> 2 days after fitting due to a rubbish connector supplied as part of the kit
> to connect the optical sensor to the ignition module - I think Lumenition
> have changed the spec of them now. After changing the connector for
> something better it has run perfectly ever since - holiday in Wales this
> year, Norfolk last year, work and back every day, greenlaning occasionally.
> It got a thorough soaking when I went wading last year in the floods and
> forgot about a bloody big hole down a local track. It's funny how flat
> everything looks on the surface of a flooded track, and what surprise you
> get when you are reminded that the track underneath goes up and down!
>
> However, I agree with Samuel. For a few pounds it is better to get
> everything working on points first. Fitting electronic ignition just
> introduces another unknown into the equation.

Can you still get those electronic units that retain and are triggered
by the points? The coil current no longer passes through the points and
they then lasted for 'ever' with me (I was eating them like you appear
to be). There is a further advantage in that all the original coil
components are retained and you can resurrect the standard setup if the
electronic box goes on the blink.

I also agree that you should get the 'normal' system working correctly
first.

>> blue are easier to fit; the red ones, being fatter, don't fit the plastic
>> clippy thing that the leads clip into.

had wondered about that...

> <shameless plug>
>
> £76.37 inc VAT and delivery for blue here.....
>
> </shameless plug>

Might be in touch in the near future then.

Any better offers out there )

Graham

> It's well worth doing sooner rather than later. Takes about an hour
> to do, so not too much of a hassle.

I just have visions of things shearing of, fuel pumps getting damaged,
tempers frayed....

Job for brother methinks, grin.


Graham

"Mother" <"@ {mother} @"@101fc.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 29 Aug 2005 21:30:36 +0000 (UTC), "Graham G" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>I'll start there, trouble is, do I buy the electric kit or the points to
>>begin with? ...prob elec kit...
>
> You don't need points with electronic ignition - a part of the kit
> replaces them.


I figured that, trouble is its a packet of money i could probably do without
spending just at the moment. Part of me thinks, get the points then do the
rest later on. The other part says why waste money on a set of points if
they are going in the bin later on. Tough one. Its made worse by the fact
that as i said the GS wasn't due to get the kit for a while. Methinks this
rad bod might be off the road til next season to give me a chance to save
for the massive list of things it needs.

Graham

> I've had a Lumenition electronic kit on mine for about 3 years. It packed
> up
> 2 days after fitting due to a rubbish connector supplied as part of the
> kit
> to connect the optical sensor to the ignition module - I think Lumenition
> have changed the spec of them now. After changing the connector for
> something better it has run perfectly ever since - holiday in Wales this
> year, Norfolk last year, work and back every day, greenlaning
> occasionally.
> It got a thorough soaking when I went wading last year in the floods and
> forgot about a bloody big hole down a local track. It's funny how flat
> everything looks on the surface of a flooded track, and what surprise you
> get when you are reminded that the track underneath goes up and down!
>
> However, I agree with Samuel. For a few pounds it is better to get
> everything working on points first. Fitting electronic ignition just
> introduces another unknown into the equation.


Sound advice from you both I think. Brothers GS is on points, so if nothing
else he might gain a spare set in the end if I do follow them with elec ign.

Graham

> Visits increase expotentially with the number of Land Rovers you own,
> add a few 101s and the bank will give you your own parking space
> outside and send you Christmas Cards...

This is something I''m learning at a rate of knotts...

Christmas isn't so far away

Dear Santa..............

> Very thin pipe (like pencil thinckness) runs from the vacuum advance
> retard unit on the side of the dizzy to a orifice on the inlet manifold.
> The vacuum generated in the inlet manifold under acceleration /
> deceleration adjusts the unit on the side of the dizzy which alters the
> timing so it runs better under acceleration / deceleration as appropriate.

Thanks very much. Thats a lot clearer, dunno is the answer to the original
question, but will have a look. So what are the pipes of a similar diameter
off the carbs? Are they a drain off or something. Excuse my ignorance, this
is something of a learning curve.

Graham

On Tue, 30 Aug 2005 21:29:28 +0100, "Graham G" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I just have visions of things shearing of, fuel pumps getting damaged,
>tempers frayed....

Normal, you mean?

>Job for brother methinks, grin.

You neec a Warren

> Normal, you mean?
>
>>Job for brother methinks, grin.
>
> You neec a Warren


If you hear of a good second hand one i'd be interested, making do with a
'brova' for the time being. Not as efficient, requires constant re-fueling
and similarly to the 'othahalf' develops an irritating whining after
prolonged use. However, unlike 'othahalf' given sufficient liquid re-fueling
it runs trouble free for atleast another couple of hours. However, it does
have a habit of packing up altogether at the most inopportune moments and
generally costs a lot in running costs ;o)

Graham

"Dougal" <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> Can you still get those electronic units that retain and are triggered
> by the points? The coil current no longer passes through the points and
> they then lasted for 'ever' with me (I was eating them like you appear
> to be). There is a further advantage in that all the original coil
> components are retained and you can resurrect the standard setup if the
> electronic box goes on the blink.

I've not seen them for a while, probably because they don't last for 'ever'!
The heel wears on the cam in the distributor and the timing drifts. I always
carry a set of points and condenser with the bit of wire to go to the coil
so if the Lumenition fails I can change back in an emergency.

Andy

On Tue, 30 Aug 2005 21:33:18 +0100, "Graham G" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>The other part says why waste money on a set of points if
>they are going in the bin later on.

Points are cheap, and it's unlikely they'll go in the bin - as they
take so little space they'll go in the toolbox and may help someone
else in the future...

>Tough one. Its made worse by the fact
>that as i said the GS wasn't due to get the kit for a while. Methinks this
>rad bod might be off the road til next season to give me a chance to save
>for the massive list of things it needs.

I reckon get the radbod painted then wait until you have the GS
running well enough to forget about it while you focus on the radbod.

Although a bit tricky, there's nothing too challenging with a V8 101 -
like any other 30 odd year old vehicle, it needs a good going over
every now and then, but once you have it sorted, it'll carry on for
another 30 odd years with minimal major attention.

On or around Wed, 31 Aug 2005 09:00:25 +0100, Mother <"@ {mother}
@"@101fc.net> enlightened us thusly:

>On Tue, 30 Aug 2005 21:33:18 +0100, "Graham G" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>The other part says why waste money on a set of points if
>>they are going in the bin later on.
>
>Points are cheap, and it's unlikely they'll go in the bin - as they
>take so little space they'll go in the toolbox and may help someone
>else in the future...

'tis also a fact that once you get 'em working right (check condition of
condenser and that you have a good, correct coil) they should work OK with
not much attention. I've run a V8 on a points sistributor and they do work.

If it has a ballast resistor, make sure it has the correct coil. If it
*doesn't* have a ballast resistor, make sure it has the correct (12V) coil.
Ballasted coils are usually either 9V or 6V, and the resistor gets bypassed
during starting to boost the output voltage.

The other way of going "electronic" is to hunt a 35DLM8 distributor from a
later vehicle. If your engine is a very old V8, then it might need the
drive at the bottom of the dizzy adapting, ISTR. Early ones have a blade on
the distributor and a slot in the oilpump drive, while later ones are tother
way around. however, there's a way of making it work - not sure, TBH, what
i did with it; it was something reltively simple. The other option is a
different oil pump / front cover, I think.

you'll want the amp unit (either on the distributor body or separate,
mounted near the coil) with it and again, the correct electronic-type coil.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"Would to God that we might spend a single day really well!"
Thomas À Kempis (1380 - 1471) Imitation of Christ, I.xxiii.

Andy Fox wrote:

> I've not seen them for a while, probably because they don't last for 'ever'!
> The heel wears on the cam in the distributor and the timing drifts. I always
> carry a set of points and condenser with the bit of wire to go to the coil
> so if the Lumenition fails I can change back in an emergency.
>
> Andy
>

It wouldn't be too hard to make an optical kit work with contacts, but
there doesn't seem a lot of "point" I am having the same trouble with my
101's ignition ATM.

Steve

Graham G wrote:

> Dear Santa..............
.....I have a great idea for pulling your sleigh if your reindeer are
poorly but I need.....


Steve