V8 Issues under load

When the rmp increases weights pull out and advance the timing.. check it sits fully in when still and it moves easy enough. Isnt incline issues down to the floats?

discomark10 said:

When the rmp increases weights pull out and advance the timing.. check it sits fully in when still and it moves easy enough. Isnt incline issues down to the floats?

Click to expand...

OK will do. Thanks.

Shouldn't be, SU's are renowned for being good on inclines - and if it were it still wouldn't explain the high rpm splutters in 3rd, 4th and 5th?!?!

This is frustrating!

is there oil in the dish pots?

I had probs one time running a 12v coil instead of a 9v coil threw a ballast resistor , that was playing up under load

Ianski said:

is there oil in the dish pots?

I had probs one time running a 12v coil instead of a 9v coil threw a ballast resistor , that was playing up under load

Click to expand...

Yeah topped the pots up as part of the tune.

And I have a new coil and leads on order so I will see if that makes a difference. Hope so for the money it cost!

just out of curiosity, have you ran it with the vac pipe off and capped?

discomark10 said:

just out of curiosity, have you ran it with the vac pipe off and capped?

Click to expand...

No, should I? What should be the result?

well the vac only deals with part throttle, it will still run ok without it and I read that Su's are a bit fickle about vac adance

discomark10 said:

well the vac only deals with part throttle, it will still run ok without it and I read that Su's are a bit fickle about vac adance

Click to expand...

Tried it with the Vac pipe off and plugged - no change.

I also installed new coil, and new HT leads - it made it worse!

The spluttering now starts lower down the rev range, is more violent and some times happens in 2nd!

I'm ordering new ignition and new dizzy next.

Any one have any ideas?

well, I have an odd misfire, not had a chance to find out if it is or not, but I've been told the distributor can cause issues.
Since they new coil and leads made it worse, its most likely ignition related.
Are the leads and coil genuine?
Have you replaced the amplifier?

Have you checked the earths on the engine, there should be one on the right hand head to the bulkhead and one of the left hand head to the chassis.

Mine was running a little rougher with the one on the bulkhead missing

benpalmer said:

Tried it with the Vac pipe off and plugged - no change.

I also installed new coil, and new HT leads - it made it worse!

The spluttering now starts lower down the rev range, is more violent and some times happens in 2nd!

I'm ordering new ignition and new dizzy next.

Any one have any ideas?

Click to expand...

Before you go replacing the distributor are you sure there is actually a problem with the one you have to warrant replacing it? Assuming you have checked the distributor is working O.K. mechanically check that it works O.K. electrically. Please tell me you haven't put on a "performance" coil, if you have take it off and get a normal one.

1: Check your ignition timing.
2: If you don't have a genuine rotor arm - get one!!
3: Check the HT leads are correctly routed.
4: Check pick up in the distributor (test resistance)
5: Check/set pick up air gap.
6: Check/test ignition amplifier is switching correctly.
7: Clean engine breathers.
8: Check/test alternator output.

HTH

Hi All!

Discomark10 - Yup New Lucas Coil and Magnecor leads. No not change the amp that why I was looking at a new dizzy.

Dr evil - Yeah all seem to be present and correct. will have another look though.

classic kev -
1. spot on
2. not sure hence I was going to replace the dizzy - as the component parts are fairly pricey all together (Genuine) so a whole new unit is better value.
3. Yep all in the right place
4. OK will give it a go.
5. Whats this?
6. OK hows best to do this?
7. All good recently done
8. This is fine at idle

Thanks for all the help so far!

air gap is the spark plug gap I believe.
and I beielve you need an oscilloscope to test the amplifier output

discomark10 said:

air gap is the spark plug gap I believe.
and I beielve you need an oscilloscope to test the amplifier output

Click to expand...

NO!

The pick up air gap is the gap between the reluctor ring (the star wheel thing!) and the pick up module. The gap needs to be right.

Do a search for ignition checks and tests I have posted them before. Same for setting pick up air gap. Whilst a scope might be useful it is not needed to check amp switching.

HTH

oh! what should it be? I set mine as close as poss without touching

Excuse my lack of knowledge - What and where is the reluctor ring?

Also got some new plugs waiting to go in so that should rule them out.

Hi all,

I know I'm digging up an old thread, but have still not got to the bottom of it yet!

But recently my alternator has given up, so I'm hoping that this may be the cause to my problems.

But any suggestions of uprated alternators for a Defender 3.5L V8? Or even what alternator I should be installing to replace the current one.

The current one is a Magnet Marelli A127-65, but I can't find these any where!

Any help would be appreciated.

whats wrong with the alternator, can you not get a new regulator?

discomark10 said:

whats wrong with the alternator, can you not get a new regulator?

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Well its putting out no power, so I decided to take it out and try and clean it up.

As I did bits started falling out of it, broken metal bits. It was the original unit so its was getting on a little.