V8 engine oil

Hi guys, I usually favour the RR forum but thought this one more relevent to my query - & bore anyone tells me to 'use the search facility' I've tried that but can never fathom it out
I bought my '87 3.5efi five years ago with only 40k on the clock & have always used the 15w40 recomended in the handbook (for the typical UK climate) but now the car has passed the 50k mark I'm wondering if I should change to a classic 20/50. One advantage of this is a greater choice of that viscosity in the mineral oil range, so what do folks think of the various products available. Thanks in advance folks.

My 3.5RR ran with 10w40 for the 10 years 110,000 miles I had it, same with my 3.9 disco it has always used 10w40 semi synth (main dealer servicing a now DIY) since I bought it 16+ years ago.

Read this and then use what u fancy
Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible

We use 15W-40 Semi-Synthetic diesel oil in our D2 V8, keeps it very clean internally and is good on LPG running.

Peter

I'm a great fan of the 20w50, I find the 10w40 and 15w40 oils can give an (even) lower oil pressure.
Also, I make sure that the oil has a good zinc content - which these engines do need.
Many modern oils don't have a good zinc content.

Remember, the rover v8 may have been produced into the 2000's, but it's a 1960's engine at heart.

captainbeaky said:

Also, I make sure that the oil has a good zinc content - which these engines do need.

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Why?

Peter

v8s have flat tappet and no rollers,diesel engine oil is higher in zinc unlike modern petrol

I hadn't thought to check diesel oil zinc content...

When I worked in development at Jag / Landrover, I quizzed the engine boys about oil, and whether or not to fit synthetic etc. to my RRC

Their advice was really simple - use the oil specified in the handbook.
Engines are developed using matching materials and lubricants.
Some engines need the mineral content of oil to maintain the seal integrity.
Others need specific additives ( like zinc ).
Don't get clever and try to double guess what's best - use the oil grade ( both viscosity and type) as recommended by the manufacturer, and change it at the specified intervals.

As for the 10w40 vs 20w50 argument, they leaned toward 20w50, to help keep the oil pressure up at idle on an older (worn) engine.

I have done this with every vehicle I have had - changed the oil and filter at the recommended intervals ( or sooner)with the recommended grade. And I have NEVER had any base engine wear issues.
And when I have had to take an engine apart ( head gasket fail on my ford at 100k), I found all the innards nice and golden and clean, with minimal wear on camshaft etc.,

According to the link above, if you want a higher level zinc (Zinc Dialkyl-Dithio-Phosphate) in your oil then go for 10W-40 or higher, and for an oil that has an even higher level and suitable for classic cars that's something like Castrol Classic... but ZDDP is the second most destructive substance to shove through a catalytic converter, the first is lead so I would stay away from that as I have a Cat..

Ok I don't have to compensate for engine wear so no need for a thicker oil, so i'll stick with 10w40 as listed in my owners handbook alone will all the other suitable grades.

if you can afford it..mobile 1 10-60..its the dogs bollocks..

BUT whatever you use change it often...say every 3000..i change mine every 1-2000..but my engine runs and looks like new..and i wish to keep it so..

zen said:

if you can afford it..mobile 1 10-60..its the dogs bollocks..

BUT whatever you use change it often...say every 3000..i change mine every 1-2000..but my engine runs and looks like new..and i wish to keep it so..

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expensive stuff, rather change it often like you do.
change my shell hx7 10w40 often, minimum twice a year no-matter if only few hundred miles
Love the gold on the dipstick, engine doesn't mind either, £20 ish pounds a pop

Ohh and it runs so sweet on the good BP & Shell Fuel, there is a difference

Thanks for all the replies folks, it looks like a choice between either Castrol or Halfords classic oils, both of which (esp the former) are more expensive than the Comma 15/40 mineral I've used up to now, but I guess you get what you pay for in life.

Think i am right.halfords oil is comma

zen said:

Think i am right.halfords oil is comma

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U R :clap2: before that it was Mobil.

Thanks Zen/Discool - as the old saying goes ''Oh what tangled web we weave.....''
Just looked it up, Comma & Halfords do indeed use exactly the same container, just the name is different. I'll be interested to compare the price as Halfords do have, shall we say, something of a reputation.

unless hafrauds got an offer on...i would bet the other is cheaper..

Comma have been arround for years and used in motor trade

norseman said:

Thanks for all the replies folks, it looks like a choice between either Castrol or Halfords classic oils, both of which (esp the former) are more expensive than the Comma 15/40 mineral I've used up to now, but I guess you get what you pay for in life.

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Used Comma oils on and off for at least twenty five years and never had any problems.

Checked on the Costco price, Chevron Supreme Semi-Synthetic 10W-40 Diesel oil that we use is £44 for a 20 litre drum including VAT. Didn't check on the petrol version.

With 2 V8's in the family and a 200TDi it's better to buy in bulk for us

Peter

listerdiesel said:

Checked on the Costco price, Chevron Supreme Semi-Synthetic 10W-40 Diesel oil that we use is £44 for a 20 litre drum including VAT. Didn't check on the petrol version.

With 2 V8's in the family and a 200TDi it's better to buy in bulk for us

Peter

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I always get the 20l drums of everything, engine oil,gear oil, hydraulic oil, MTF. Ive thought of getting 205l barrels of engine oil, but they are a bit of a pain to transport and store.
We have a tractor, landy, and two cars, surprising how much you save, and a lot of running around saved if yu have the stuff in stock.

I get it all from local oil wholesaler, loads cheaper then Halfrauds etc., and , as it happens, much closer too.

I've used my local Unipart for oil recently, and sometimes, it's been cheaper to buy whole boxes of gallon cans than 20 litre containers.
Strange, know - I always check with them to make sure...


205 litres is just way too big to safely carry and store.