URGENT HELP - Falt battery and alarm wont shut up!

Been away for 2 weeks on holiday, came home. got dropped off at work where i left the RR (L322 TD6 2003)

Pressed 'unlock' on keyfob, nothing. Opened drivers door with key manually, no lights insude, turned ignition on, nothing again. Borrowed works portable jump starter thingy, connected it up for 5 mins then turned ignition to on (not started, everything lit up as usual but wouldnt start. Tried it again, still nothing.

Locked her up and walked away and the alarm sounded for about 30 seconds, then stopped, but the hazards didnt flash.

At the mo its going off every minute so anyone got any ideas what i can do?

mrblonde said:

Been away for 2 weeks on holiday, came home. got dropped off at work where i left the RR (L322 TD6 2003)

Pressed 'unlock' on keyfob, nothing. Opened drivers door with key manually, no lights insude, turned ignition on, nothing again. Borrowed works portable jump starter thingy, connected it up for 5 mins then turned ignition to on (not started, everything lit up as usual but wouldnt start. Tried it again, still nothing.

Locked her up and walked away and the alarm sounded for about 30 seconds, then stopped, but the hazards didnt flash.

At the mo its going off every minute so anyone got any ideas what i can do?

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modern cars are very fussy about there voltage if there not tip top they wont even try to start, unless you boost pack is a h/d one and you left it connected for 10-15mins before trying to start it start by disconnecting the battery and charge it, if its stuck at work and its not convenient to charge it connect it to another vehicle with jump leads and leave it connected with the jump vehicle running for about 30mins and then try and start it, alarm going of is probably just because its sensing a voltage drop

Cheers mick, is it worth getting AA out to get it going? And in the 2 weeks might it of killed the battery completely? or maybe a decent run will charge it up again?

And, whats likely to of caused it to drain in 2 weeks?

Thanks again

right people n update

AA man came out, his jumper pack wouldnt touch it so we ended up jump starting from his van after letting it run for 1o minutes, all ok took her for an hts drive with nothing electrical on.

When first started it came up with 'Air Suspension Inactive' on the dash, but i remembered the turn steering wheel lock to lock to clear it, was that right to do?

Also, a few things arent working now, wing mirror fold in button, any electric windows, the self lock button on dash under hazards only locks/unlocks rear doors, and when i armed the alarm just now once i parked up, the hazards didnt flash, but the indicators DO work when im signalling?

Any help appreciated guys

Have you any way of measuring battery voltage under load mate? as said above a below par battery may look OK when charged but under load if it drops then undervoltage can show some very strange symptoms.

cheers dubnut

Im useless with electrics so can you explain a bit more please? When it first started, the EAS played around and raised and lowered a bit for coupel of minutes, then settled and cleared once i'd done the lock to lock trick

is it worth checking any fuses or relays?

Know nowt about the L322, but it could be the ECU's have got confused due the low battery volts, I suggest you disconnect the battery and fully charge it, then re-connect and see what happens.

mrblonde said:

cheers dubnut

Im useless with electrics so can you explain a bit more please? When it first started, the EAS played around and raised and lowered a bit for coupel of minutes, then settled and cleared once i'd done the lock to lock trick

is it worth checking any fuses or relays?

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Fully charged and healthy (IE not dropping massively under load) battery is the key thing here. Batteries are a collection of lead acid "wet"cells that have 2 plates and an electrolyte between them. When they are discharged the sulphur builds up and cots the plates meaning they can't hold a charge any more. Even one duff cell (6 in a typical 12v) can lead to the battery failing to hold a good charge.

Sitting without a charge (like when you go on your 2 weeks holiday) and the "parasitic" drain on the battery (alarm / clock / ecu) will soon lead to a discharged and sulphated battery. Cold weather like the months ahead also is a big killer of batteries.

Simply put a load tester or a hydrometer(on old batteries where the cells are accessible) to test the capacity to hold a charge or the specific gravity of the electrolyte.
Usually however just replacing the battery on a known good vehicle charging system is good enough, I have never managed to get more than 3 yrs out of a battery, they are just as disposable an item as exhausts really!!

HTH

cheers again dub

will get someone in work to give me a hand, if i do need to get a new battery, whats best to get? i remember old batteries had a starting value or lad i think, what spec should i go for and wheres good place to buy one

The battery on my TD6 started arseing about shortly after I bought it, odd errors about HDC Inactive and EAS fault. Was always a bit sluggish turning over in the mornings, then refused to start after a couple of hours in a field with the doors open, so bit the bullet & got a new Varta Silver Dynamic 110ah 920cca battery like this and it's been fine since.

mrblonde said:

cheers again dub

will get someone in work to give me a hand, if i do need to get a new battery, whats best to get? i remember old batteries had a starting value or lad i think, what spec should i go for and wheres good place to buy one

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I like the look of bigdels battery above, looks a monster!

Simple answer is the biggest high capacity mofof your charging system will take, I tend to favour Bosh batteries simply because come winter our local factors usually does a good healthy trade discount seeing as how many are knocked out come the first frost!!

Capacity will be in Ah (ampere hours) and frankly the bigger the better (within reason)

dubnut71 said:

I like the look of bigdels battery above, looks a monster!

Simple answer is the biggest high capacity mofof your charging system will take, I tend to favour Bosh batteries simply because come winter our local factors usually does a good healthy trade discount seeing as how many are knocked out come the first frost!!

Capacity will be in Ah (ampere hours) and frankly the bigger the better (within reason)

Click to expand...

Tiz not the AH rating, but the CCA rating u want to check. Once its started the alternator shud keep everything going.

CCA - Cold Cranking Amps - the more the merrier

I defer to Derek and the Hat man's knowledge above, CCA's are indeed the ones you want!

cheers guys
checked her just now and nothing, not a sausage, wouldnt even unlock

So new Battery it is. the Varta I1 as above i think,

Guys
What am i going to loose/need to reset/write down if i replace the battery? Is there a radio code? Will my alarm scream out if i disconnect the battery, thinking its being stolen?