central locking/immobilizer issue

Hey all,

Well im currently stuck in Bulgaria, drove my P38 from Uk through france,germany,austria into Itally stayed there 2 months drove then through slovenia, croatia,bosnia,serbia, montenegro, albania, macedonia, kosovo and staed in bulgaria for 5 months, since being in bulgaria my key fob as been playing up, on numerous occsaions its failed to lock or unlock my car, garage sorted a few issues out out when it comes back from garage fob locks/unlocks first time for about 3-4 days then over the next few days progressively takes more presses and longer to lock/unlock till like recently it wont unlock at all, so i manually unlock, try inputting code and after 3 days and numerous 30 min lockouts the code still isnt turning engine immobilizer off. (Indicator lights flash when turning 4 times to left, then green light on dashboard lights when i put code in but nothing happens on final unlock turn)

The key fob as new batteries flashes led when pressing buttons, just will not open, tried resync in door, doesnt work, pretty much tried everything thats possible from info on these boards.

Anyone know why my fobs ability to lock/unlock dwindles over a week?

Any way to turn of alarm/imobaliser so i dont use key fob and just open and unlock manually and can just put key in ignition and drive away? you know old school style lol

You can turn off alarm and immobilisation with nanocom and faultmate or a dealer should be able to do it.
Sounds like one of the microswitch in the latch pack is faulty or you have the wrong eka code.
One thing worth a try is open the window and on the last turn, pull the sill button up at the same time you turn the key as it can sometimes help the microswitch make contact.

What age is the car? Later ones sync once key in ignition.

There are door latch tests posted on here somewhere by martyuk. Worth doing those.

@MrSporty is the key specialist if the key is at fault. You'll have to send him a message and post the key though.

Its a T reg (1992?) Key was brand new last August from range rover cost over £300. I did input the eka code correctly once about 1 month after purchase and nothing as been changed since so presuming still the same code, that did take me all night and about 20 tries.

Dont understand how the fob can work sweet as a nut for 3-4 days then progressively get worse over 3-4 days till it eventually stops working.
Maybe will have to low load it to Sofia, i think there is range rover dealer there.

Looked into purchasing a nanocom but weighing up whether £600 is going to offset against the future money i spend on central looking issues lol

I take it you are over near Sofia?
To far away from me, to far for me to come for tea and a coat of looking at. You know that 2 heads can mess it up quicker than 1 type thing

Moto pfoe. Are the Land Rover dealer over this side and I am sure they are in Sofia.

J

Wazzajnr said:

You can turn off alarm and immobilisation with nanocom and faultmate or a dealer should be able to do it.
Sounds like one of the microswitch in the latch pack is faulty or you have the wrong eka code.
One thing worth a try is open the window and on the last turn, pull the sill button up at the same time you turn the key as it can sometimes help the microswitch make contact.

Click to expand...

No need to turn the alarm off, just the immobiliser and EKA. the car will then operate just using the key.

Wammers top tip - open and close drivers door on EKA code attemp will reset the lockout giving you more turns