Uprated LRSS Alarm for Disco 1

I purchased a Thatcham CAT1 LRSS arlarm (genuine LR) off fleabay. It's new and never been fitted - came with 2 keyfobs and immobiliser tags which is good as mine has neither keyfobs and I only have one immobiliser tag - seemed silly wasting money on new ones when the kit as so cheap. Plus my siren doesn't work (flashing indicators wouldn't scare any tea leaves away...)

My question is has anyone fited one of these and is there a way to do it so that if any of the parts are faulty, I don't rip the old system out first? Are they hard to fit? Instructions seem quite good...Any tips would be appreciated, might have a stab this weekend (and plan not to drive it anywhere for a few days if I balls it up!)

Nobody had a stab at one of these retrofits? Or was it such a horrible experience no one want's to talk about it??1 haha

Hi...these were made by Conlog S/Africa in response to insurance coms demand for a better alarm (so many early discos.def stolen)..fitted to both from 1980 /1998, very few fitted, you can go into a established LR dealer and they will not even know what it is..easy to fit as long as you have all parts, really only 6 wires..BUT they are old systems, the batteries are no longer made and even if your system has never been fitted it,s very likely the batts are knackered..also the unit may need to be programmed which needs special kit..(again very few LR dealers know how to do this)..you should have a socket with the system which the remotes plug in for prog..the red one is master..white is slave...you can also use this if the batts are flat...hope this helps..Dave.

Hi again...just been thinking about this while having evening meal (sad or what)...best approach would be to open up remotes and see what condition they are in...if it,s an early issue batts may have burst and rotted insides away or batt springs...if made in 1989 first issue, never been used, batts would be approx 19 years old, I have some bits somewhere if they can be found, post again if you need more help...Dave.

Yeah the batteries are pretty ill looking. It's like a taped roll of small cell batteries - my old man reckons he has a bunch of these somewhere. Looks like you could make your own as it's only little watch batteries taped together!
One remote is labelled as master. I also have the plug in socket the remotes go into for the immobiliser - is this what will program them too?
I've cleaned up the battery springs as they had some gunk on them - think I'll try and get some life from them before trying to do the rest of the kit! Might see if I can jerry rig it up to the battery on the car and the door locks and see if there are any signs of life before I go ripping the old system out!

Found these:

Can't remember exactly how many mine has but these look right.

4/393 Conlog Logic Battery

Hi..I stand corrected, did not know you can still obtain batteries...we used to join button cells together as you said...think the Varta part number was V377, but not certain...the link looks right battery...I suggest before you go too far, you see if there is a LR dealer close to you who can program the unit before you fit, just in case...one of the customer compliants with these was because it is self setting (3mins)..if you just shut the door and walked away, came back 5mins later, opened the door the alarm would activate...likewise if you stopped anywhere (garage or shop) with people (children) in car you would either have to leave key in ign, first position, or leave door open or alarm would activate when people moved...as far as I am aware this can not be programed out as it was an ins comp spec...the master can only program a slave and make minor setting changes to set up..ie remote opens one door or all etc...not much more I can you that will help, but I will keep an eye on the thread in case.

_______________________________________
95 300TDI
51 Jeep M38
Ml 270CDI

Do not worry about not being able to start the car, PM me if you are not sure how to do it.

Most on here know what I am talking about,

regards

Dave

Cheers Dave, I will do if I get stuck. Haven't started fitting it yet - contemplated doing it this weekend but decided to get drunk in the sun instead! Think I'll plan on doing it this weekend coming.

I did post on this before easter, but seems a moderator had to approve post but never did..
I stand corrected, never realised batteries were still available, we resorted to button cells taped together (as you said) think part num was Varta377..If you still intend to go ahead with this I suggest you try and find a LR dealer in your area who can program the unit (just in case)...The red master programs the slave and minor functions of the unit, one of the prblems with this alarm is that its self arming (3mins)..which can be a pain at shops and things because you either have to leave key in first position or a door open if there are people in the car, if you take key away and close all doors sensor sets alarm off if anybody left in car moves...as far as I know this could not be programed out...not sure if any of this helps but I will keep an eye on thread..

It came with some LR instructions on how to disarm that feature - I'll have to dig out the paperwork but I think you have to press and hold the button for 5 seconds with the driver door open to disarm the internal motion sensors.
Still haven't braved it yet, planning on saturday...
There's a few dealers round here but hopefully it's already programmed properly!

Success!

Took a few hours on Saturday and then a couple hours Sunday to tidy up.

Was pretty straightforward - the only problem we found was ripping out the old AutoLogic immob system - we did that Sunday in the end, was quite simple when we worked out all the whites to the fuel relay are common and the red/white to the starter circuit are common. Works a treat. Only thing I didn't do was the ultrasonic upgrade - it involves pulling headlining, etc out. But I'll do this another day when I have a few hours spare! Had a weird problem where only the drivers door was locking. Was something to do with the selective unlock not energising the relay when you lock it - we just commoned the central locking circuit together as it was before and it works fine.