Hi all,
I’ve recently joined the community - as you’ll see over the intro section, i’m the proud owner of a (new to me) 2001 TD5 Defender 90 SW. Loving it so far and have started on some of the niggles and making some progress.
The next up on the list is the alarm situation, which I’m hoping some more experienced members can help me build a mental picture of what’s going on, before I strip the dashboard out and dive in. Now, I do have some experience in stripping out a data tool s4 red from a motorcycle (that was fun) - so I’m not completely green here….
Current situation as follows:
1. Toad alarm fitted. Red light on the top of the steering stem moves to green when the button is pressed on the remote fob.
2. If I don’t do step 1, internal motion sensors at the top of the a pillar inside, pick up motion and start the lights flashing (no sound).
3. If I don’t do step 1, door switches trigger lights to flash also (but no sound).
4. If I open the bonnet while immobilised, alarm goes off (sound and flashers)
5. If I turn the ignition key to 1 before pressing the toad alarm fob, glow plug light on dash does not activate and engine cannot be started.
6. Original immobiliser fob is screwed permanently to dashboard. If you remove this, and try to immobilise (via toad) and move to position 1 on the ignition, alarm sounds (sound+lights).
Interestingly when the flashers go off because of the motion sensors, I can reset with the toad alarm, but if they go off because of the bonnet, or because the immobiliser chip is removed from the car, then I need to press the buttons on the stock fob to quiet it.
It’s clear to me that there is some interaction between the stock immobiliser and sensors, and this aftermarket unit. Not least because the immobiliser chip is needed, but also because the stock sensors seem to trigger the alarm - but I can’t quite figure out why the buttons on the original fob don’t need to be pressed to get the car immobilised. Basically it’s a bit of a mess, it’s overly complex and it feels like a problem waiting to happen.
I’ve only got one stock immobiliser fob, and one toad fob. I’m worried that this situation Is a bit precarious, especially if the stock fob runs out of battery one day and leaves me with a stationary vehicle.
Two questions then:
1. What circuit is the toad likely breaking?
2. Should I keep the stock immobiliser and just Get a replacement fob? Or use a nanocom to disable the stock immobliser and install a new aftermarket one?
3. Any pitfalls here that I should be aware of before I disconnect the battery and rip out the dashboard?
Would love your thoughts here, before I throw caution to the wind!
Thanks in advance!
Doug
I’ve recently joined the community - as you’ll see over the intro section, i’m the proud owner of a (new to me) 2001 TD5 Defender 90 SW. Loving it so far and have started on some of the niggles and making some progress.
The next up on the list is the alarm situation, which I’m hoping some more experienced members can help me build a mental picture of what’s going on, before I strip the dashboard out and dive in. Now, I do have some experience in stripping out a data tool s4 red from a motorcycle (that was fun) - so I’m not completely green here….
Current situation as follows:
1. Toad alarm fitted. Red light on the top of the steering stem moves to green when the button is pressed on the remote fob.
2. If I don’t do step 1, internal motion sensors at the top of the a pillar inside, pick up motion and start the lights flashing (no sound).
3. If I don’t do step 1, door switches trigger lights to flash also (but no sound).
4. If I open the bonnet while immobilised, alarm goes off (sound and flashers)
5. If I turn the ignition key to 1 before pressing the toad alarm fob, glow plug light on dash does not activate and engine cannot be started.
6. Original immobiliser fob is screwed permanently to dashboard. If you remove this, and try to immobilise (via toad) and move to position 1 on the ignition, alarm sounds (sound+lights).
Interestingly when the flashers go off because of the motion sensors, I can reset with the toad alarm, but if they go off because of the bonnet, or because the immobiliser chip is removed from the car, then I need to press the buttons on the stock fob to quiet it.
It’s clear to me that there is some interaction between the stock immobiliser and sensors, and this aftermarket unit. Not least because the immobiliser chip is needed, but also because the stock sensors seem to trigger the alarm - but I can’t quite figure out why the buttons on the original fob don’t need to be pressed to get the car immobilised. Basically it’s a bit of a mess, it’s overly complex and it feels like a problem waiting to happen.
I’ve only got one stock immobiliser fob, and one toad fob. I’m worried that this situation Is a bit precarious, especially if the stock fob runs out of battery one day and leaves me with a stationary vehicle.
Two questions then:
1. What circuit is the toad likely breaking?
2. Should I keep the stock immobiliser and just Get a replacement fob? Or use a nanocom to disable the stock immobliser and install a new aftermarket one?
3. Any pitfalls here that I should be aware of before I disconnect the battery and rip out the dashboard?
Would love your thoughts here, before I throw caution to the wind!
Thanks in advance!
Doug
