Up the creek and drowning fast... Sheared Spark Plug!!

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P38_love/hatething

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So I was out trying to sus out a compression leakage, suspected spark plug loose/cross threaded/something. 2nd plug from front on RHS (4.0 year2000) absolutely stuck in, not going anywhere. Started to turn, thought great! Then that moment when the sockets came away and left half the plug in the head!!!!!!

AHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!! I think i might crawl into the feotal position and cry...

Any help on getting half a (seized) plug out of the head?? They were due a change, but this one is well and truly stuck
 
Is half the porcelain still left in or has it all come out? Is there any chance of getting a socket on it?
If the porcelain is out or the socket slips on the hex., I don't think a large stud extractor will shift it.
To be safe and to prevent feckin the thread in the aluminium head, personally I would remove the head and drill it out on a bench drill then run a tap down the threads to clean them up. If you dont have the facilities or dont feel confident about a DIY fix, take it to an engine repair shop, won't take them long to do it.
Feel sorry for ya fella.
:hurt::Cry:
 
Feeling sorry for myself i have to say, and feeling like i right numpty!

I guess it just makes my mind up for me, I'm gonna do the head gaskets (or get them done by someone, haven't decided yet!). Been reading up about it since shearing the head off. Unfortunately the plug is gone from a point of view of getting anything onto it. In hindsight, its rusted in, which suggests water in there anyway. I know i have small amonts of sludge on the filler cap, and it uses a small amount of water, but i've been in denial about it!!

So its heads off time - its gas converted to further complicate things, but i take it its basically remove alternator / gas injectors / air con compressor / intake & all / rocker covers and then heads? Makes it sound so easy!

Plenty of beer for any local help!

Cheers Irish - this will not be the last post, i can assure you. Work will start next week (supposed to be on two week paternity leave with new baby!!)
 
Download a copy of RAVE from one of the links on the forum if you don't already have it.
Just be methodical when you start to strip it down and either make notes or better still, take photo's of any strange or awkward bits to assist with rebuild.
Apart from the gasket set, don't forget the Hylomar gasket sealant, Lock & Seal for the bolts and a new set of head bolts. The gasket set and head bolt sets can be obtained either from an aftermarket supplier. Don't forget the new QUALITY anti-freeze also.

Looking on the bright side, you can always get the "Little Un" to remove bits that are hard to get to!!

Just shout if you need more advice.
Good Luck
:behindsofa:
 
one method i was taught to get stubborn plugs out (the cause is usually deposits at the end of the plug from combustion etc) is to rock back and forth with the socket on a t bar putting equal pressure on each side.

also to get steel out of aliminium is to put boiling water over the area, it expand the ally a little and helps crack the thread.

i know its not much use to you now but it will help for future
 
Thanks Irish & Gav. Definitely starting in the morning now, drafted in my father in law to help! Like the thought of using the baby to get in, that should save my skinned knuckles!

Been reading RAVE all morning. Wish i could print all 1361 pages.

Looking at Island 4x4 now, i take it part number STC4082 (i.e. head gasket set) contains everything I need? O-rings for top coolant pipe out of the front engine is only one that i know of - i assume they are all included?

Couple of other questions at this stage:
Is it enough to take out the mounting bolts on he air-con comp. and the PAS pump and move them out of the way, without taking off hoses? RAVE says yes, thought i'd check.
With the gas system, it ran out the other day and switched to petrol (good timing) if i disconnect wires from solenoids, can i then just disconnect from the vaporiser and keep the 8 injectors intact on top of the inlet manifold?

Lastly, apart from a great excuse to finally buy a torque wrench (i know - it probably would have saved the spark plug) are there any other tools i need bar full set of spanners and sockets/extension and usual bits?

Thanks for all help, greatly appreciated.
Shane
 
Damnit, meant to also ask:

Is it worth replacing the oil pressure switch at the same time? I haven't had any problems (but then never seen it light up the dash) but i read somewhere about just replacing it while access is best
 
Don't forget the new head bolt set.
If you can beg or borrow a torque wrench it would help. Just a good socket set and a few combination spanners should do it. Just swing the compressor out of the way, no need to disconnect the hoses. Will pay to also get the exhaust manifold to downpipe gaskets (2) as the heat shields are a pain to remove and the manifold to head bolts, especially the rear drivers side will drive you crazy, easier to remove the 3 nuts that hold the downpipe to the manifold flange and remove the head complete with the manifold...use exhaust assembly paste (Firegum or similar) for reassembly.
Oil pressure switches are pretty reliable, if it's working...leave it be.

:behindsofa:
 
On your LPG tank there should be a valve, turn it off. You then shouldn't heed to remove any other bits of LPG xcept for vap to intaketube/tubes.


Rest should be a piece of ****. You can have heads off and back on in a day easyly. Are you getting heads skimmed?
 
On your LPG tank there should be a valve, turn it off. You then shouldn't heed to remove any other bits of LPG xcept for vap to intaketube/tubes.


Rest should be a piece of ****. You can have heads off and back on in a day easyly. Are you getting heads skimmed?
 
I dunno Gav, should i get them skimmed? I think i'll need someone to machine out the spark plug so they may skim them at the same time if i want?!?!

I read somewhere not to skim them cause whatever shape they are will match the block(?) - any sense in this or should they be skimmed for sure?
 
Either put them on a surface plate or use a good straight edge to check for flatness. If you have not had any head gasket problems, they should be ok. No need to skim the heads every time you remove them unless they have a history of gasket problems.
 
Hi Irish,

No real history of head gasket problems. The car overheated 3 or 4 times since i've had it, but not since last summer. It uses a small amount of water which whenever i hadn't checked it for a while then it got a bit starved and ran hot. Always stopped imediately and got pretty good at topping up from the top hose by the side of the road. Hasn't overheated since last summer.

Suspected head gasket being responsible for some water loss for a while, but like i said, was in denial!! Then over the last week or so (going back and forth to hospital to see new baby!) noise developed like compression leakage, exactly as this video (stolen from a post on rangerovers.net):
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l83kMGU3m5A"]YouTube- 2000 Range Rover V8 4.6 - noise: exhaust manifold or head gasket ? Part 1[/ame]

Hasn't a history of head gasket, I've owned it for 21k miles (got 117K on it now) BUT i have also been reading wrxfifer's posts and want to avoid all the bad luck he has had!! Whats the sort of tolerances on whether or not i should skim the heads? Presumably its only a matter of fractions of millimetres?

Thanks again for all help! Tomorrow's the start - luckily i've also got a land rover specialist nearby, unluckily i spend too much time there.
 
If you are taking the head to an engine specialist (Would have thought there was one in Belfast) or a decent machine shop to have the plug remains removed, I would feel certain they would have a surface table. Easy job to check them for flatness, they put some marking blue on the surface table and rub the head over the table and that will show any loss of flatness. Takes about 5 mins. max.
Rememer to take both heads if you want them checked !!

Maximum warp should be no more than .002" (.05mm)....Max stock removal .020" (.50mm)
 
dont try to do it with the head on, i did that with a ford KA and a very small peice fell into the cylinder and was unseen.. started car up and things went bang.....had to replace piston and rings etc.... learn from others fukc ups
 
Ok, UPDATE:

all going well, got right down to inlet manifold (rocker covers off, rocker shafts off & push rods out) Got all 12 bolts out of inlet manifold (as in RAVE) but its stuck fast. I know there is RTV sealant on it, but its held tight as if there are other bolts in it. Any help to pull it off? any tricks? I don't want to force it too much...
 
Tried giving it a knock earlier. Definitely feels like there is some mechanical fixing holding it down. Do you have to take out the injectors or the fuel rail? The electronics have all been removed and the fuel line unplugged from the back. the small bolts that hold on the fuel rail - do they need taken out / loosened?

I dunno. 12 bolts to the head are out, but its stuck fast. I'll try again in the morning with a clear head!
 
Ahh, that explains a lot....Yes, disconnect and remove the fuel rail and injectors. The Injectors have an "O" ring each end where they go into the "Top Hat" on the rail and into the cylinder head...over time the "O" rings get dry so they will be a bit tight, just Jiggle and pull and either the rail will come free with the injector still in the head or come out with the rail. Keep them somewhere clean. The gasket set should contain new "O" rings, just put a smear of grease on them when you come to reassemble.
 
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