Unknown electrical problem?

Hi all, I'm having a problem with my Freelander (yr2000 diesel), don't know if anyone can come up with suggestions? Recently been having trouble whereby I turn the ignition key to the second position at which point the lights on the dashboard (handbrake engaged, glow plugs, engine, etc, etc) should come on but they either don't or come on dim. At this point the engine will turn over but not start. I turn the key back to off, set immobiliser, reset immobiliser, and then back to the second position and the dasboard lights generally come on and car starts OK (assume that if lights on dash are OK car will always start, and the car battery has been checked and is fine). This happens about 50% of the time and has been happening for about two weeks now. Today however it gets worse in that just after starting OK and driving about 100m it cuts out a couple of times with similar symptoms (no dash lights, difficult to start). Don't know where to start looking, and seems like it could be expensive taking it to a garage / dealer. Does anyone have any ideas where I could start looking?

Check batterie connections earth to engine , big main fuses for arcing [burning] and all ignition type fuses for same thing, ingnition -glow plug relays- - - - - - -bout it oh un it could be a dodgy key switch

Hi Fashion,

You and me have the same problem. I posted recently -

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/l-series-power-loss-dash-70318.html

I've looked through the circuit diagrams and have come to the conclusion that the only common component is the ignition switch itself. Haven't looked at it directly yet as the problem happens only very occationally however, the symptoms are exactly the same as yours. Mine is the same model also. No one has offered an explanation as yet. If I find out more I'll let you know.

Hi Had the same fault on my last freelander, cleaned contacts in ignition switch job done never happened again. easy to do remove plastic cover from around steering remove back of ignition switch and clean the copper contacts inside,just remember which terminals your ignition wires go on when you put it back together.

Thanks for that AAA, will have a look at the weekend.

Cheers,

Dave

After reading through various forums it looks like the ignition switch is a common problem - will try and strip / clean it up at the weekend and let you all know. By the way, could this have been the cause of the engine cutting out?

Obviously if the ignition switch failes to maintain power to the main power bus then the ECU will lose the 'Run' signal and close the stop valve. I've had the dash cut out but not the engine so I guess there was a reduction in voltage on the main bus but not a complete loss.

Does anyone know if (like the Haynes manual says) you have to drill out two screws in some mounting / assembly to remove the ignition switch?

hi fashion.
Dont drill out the bolts just remove the switch with the ignition wire terminals on it at the back of the bolted on part which your key go's into two or three screws if i remember correctly its an easy job. AAA

Getting to the ignition switch was easy - switch inside looked OK, sprayed some switch cleaner onto all contacts. Also checked all fuses and relays under bonnet, and Earth from battery to bodywork. A couple of relays had a slight bit of corrosion on a couple of spade connectors, again cleaned up and sprayed with contact cleaner - fingers crossed, will keep you posted.

Better do mine then.