transfer box n' chips please

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flatlander

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And today's little puzzle. The 200 engine I'm rebuilding came with a gearbox and transfer box. I had intended to fit the transfer box (from a disco) into my 90, to up the gear ratios.

While the block is off for a rebore I thought I'd investigate the box. On removing the PTO takeoff I found a sludge full of what looks like gunmetal chips - they are non magnetic. I washed them free of grease, and the photo shows the result. They look like shavings.

The question is - is it ferked in a truly serious manner, and would I be wasting my time stripping it further. I hadn't planned on overhauling the box, but since every other bloody bit on the engine has needed work (including an exchange injector pump, ouch!), I might have to take this on as well. Any views?
 

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the only bronze in the transfer box is the high low selector shaft and center diff gear thrust washers,whether diff casings are worn or not wont show up till its stripped,removing transfer box sump plate will help give you more idea
 
What do the splines on the output shaft of the main gearbox look like? Perhaps it's from wear to those?

Wear between these and those inside the input gear of the transfer box is very common on early models. Later ones had the cross-drilled gear that provided some lubrication and prevented the issue.
 
Thanks for that James. I've removed the cover, photos attached. There is very little of the shavings in the housing, I've wiped the bottom as well as I could and there was only one fleck.
I've left it draining overnight, and would be grateful for any clue as to what to look for now!
 

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feel diff gears by counter rotaing both drive flanges at same time ,looks good apart from that you will need new input gear had someone brazed main shaft splines to attempt repair,26 tooth input gear is ftc5089 and 28 tooth ftc5087
 
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What do the splines on the output shaft of the main gearbox look like? Perhaps it's from wear to those?

Wear between these and those inside the input gear of the transfer box is very common on early models. Later ones had the cross-drilled gear that provided some lubrication and prevented the issue.

There is some fretting corrosion on the shaft, but no chipping. In any case the bits are non magnetic, so must be brass. If this is the input gear James mentiones then a change would improve things.
 
I have an as new transfer input year x drilled will check the teeth number to see what it fits as far as I can tell it was from a 1.4:1 box it looks as neww will double check it won't fit my own transfer box and if that's the case it can go for sale

Jai
 
Does the 26 / 28 tooth variation give the different gear ratios on the defender and disco? If so, then the disco option is the one I will need.

I've counter rotated the output flanges, co-rotated them and tried every other variation, but everything turns smoothly, no grinding or gritty bits. I'm just about to strip out the input gear, as the bearings were exposed to the bits, and will need cleaning out. I will fit a new one with cross drillings, so if it's the right one you have Jai, then I would be interested.
 
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