Track Rod Ends

sijwhite · Nov 28, 2013

Thought I'd change my discs, pads, drop links and track rod ends today.

All was going well until I tried to get the nearside taper to come out. After several hours I thought I'd give in and ask the good and the wise here if there are any tips on getting the damn thing apart.

I've tried a big hammer, heat, plus gas, a puller and a splitter. I'm stumped.

Any suggestions?

jamesmartin · Nov 28, 2013

you cant be hitting the steering arm near the joint hard enough then ,ive never seen one that wouldnt pop out if hit hard enough

Grit Valve · Nov 28, 2013

How big is the hammer keep twacking as long as your changing the ball joint

You can buy a thread type ball joint splitter .

sijwhite · Nov 28, 2013

jamesmartin said:
you cant be hitting the steering arm near the joint hard enough then ,ive never seen one that wouldnt pop out if hit hard enough

I'm using a 4lb club hammer. Just how hard can I hit the steering arm before it breaks?

jamesmartin · Nov 28, 2013

sijwhite said:
I'm using a 4lb club hammer. Just how hard can I hit the steering arm before it breaks?

that should get tre out of steering arm if you hit end of arm

fanatic · Nov 28, 2013

Put the ball joint tool on and try again

Grit Valve · Nov 28, 2013

sijwhite said:
I'm using a 4lb club hammer. Just how hard can I hit the steering arm before it breaks?

It can only be held by rust at most if your that worried go for the thread and bolt type remover , less chance of damage to dust seals, for future removal of good Ball joints .
try soaking it in penitrating fluid for the night .... No not wd40 if not firm twacking keep it up not thor type pounding

or you might just brake the casting .

And hit the thread bit not the shank

Irishrover · Nov 28, 2013

The arm is made from drop forged steel, it will not break.

I take it you have slackened/removed the ball joint nut !!

Like JM, I have used that method for years with great success. Just give it one good sharp smack and it should just drop off the taper, don't give it a load of continuous "Light" taps. If , which is unlikely that fails, use an extractor with a pressure bolt and give the arm a good whack whilst it's under pressure.

sijwhite · Nov 28, 2013

Irishrover said:
The arm is made from drop forged steel, it will not break.

I take it you have slackened/removed the ball joint nut !!

Like JM, I have used that method for years with great success. Just give it one good sharp smack and it should just drop off the taper, don't give it a load of continuous "Light" taps. If , which is unlikely that fails, use an extractor with a pressure bolt and give the arm a good whack whilst it's under pressure.

Yes, I have removed the nut

and I've given it plenty of good hard whacks but now I know the arm is drop forged steel I won't be so circumspect about hitting it with a bigger hammer.

Grit Valve · Nov 28, 2013

sijwhite said:
Yes, I have removed the nut and I've given it plenty of good hard whacks but now I know the arm is drop forged steel I won't be so circumspect about hitting it with a bigger hammer.

Did you say bigger club hammer

Try this

musky81 · Nov 28, 2013

Careful you dont fck yerself with the heat. It may make the taper more tight. Best of luck, hate it when you come to do a job and something youd never have expected stops the whole job dead.

Grit Valve · Nov 28, 2013

musky81 said:
Careful you dont fck yerself with the heat. It may make the taper more tight. Best of luck, hate it when you come to do a job and something youd never have expected stops the whole job dead.

Depends where your directing it,oxygen and acetylene the way to go
Butane is a waste if time and money
I doubt he was using oxygen

Irishrover · Nov 29, 2013

Grit Valve said:
Did you say bigger club hammer

Try this

:behindsofa:

I'll send Er Indoors up to swing it !!
:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi

nickcc · Nov 29, 2013

Lump hammers either side at the same time should shock the taper out.

sijwhite · Nov 29, 2013

Grit Valve said:
Depends where your directing it,oxygen and acetylene the way to go
Butane is a waste if time and money
I doubt he was using oxygen

I was using a MAP torch. Anyway, a new day and a clear mind. All done.

Thanks for the input everyone.

Track Rod Ends

sijwhite

Active Member

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

Grit Valve

2000 4.6 Vouge

sijwhite

Active Member

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

fanatic

RESPECT IS EARNED, BEATINGS ARE FREE ;-)

Grit Valve

2000 4.6 Vouge

Irishrover

Well-Known Member

sijwhite

Active Member

Grit Valve

2000 4.6 Vouge

musky81

Active Member

Grit Valve

2000 4.6 Vouge

Irishrover

Well-Known Member

nickcc

Well-Known Member

sijwhite

Active Member

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