To Dislocate or not?

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dicky39v8

New Member
Posts
35
Location
Kent
I am in the middle of tray backing my Range Rover Classic V8.
Cutting the body up to behind the rear seats and cutting upto the cross member.

As there will be allot less weight I have ditched the rear 150lbs/inch coils in favour of some custom made coils which are 130lbs/inch but two inchs longer (open length) so to raise the suspension 2" and +"2 longer front coils.

My first option is to fit +2" pro comp shocks (9235##) and be done with it.

The other option is to fit the challenge +5.5" shock kit by Gwyn Lewis.

I understand I would have to remove the boge leveler if I do this?

Are there any advantages of having more shock travel with the spring dislocated?
 
your´will get more traction since you will guarantee at least one will in contact with road..
but this is until coef of traction of the tyre recheast is limit and then the effect of a open diff will put you to a stop.

i would go for a +2" spring and procomp, you can get dislocates cones ,and a lower support for the rear shock.it will get you additional 2" :)

see this one for a idea
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwO_FZqKpec&feature=PlayList&p=7C36A24BFCFCB11B&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=82"]YouTube- Cruzamento de Eixos Range Rover 2/2[/ame]
 
andyb66 said:
Definately remove the load leveller.

There is not a lot to be gained from dislocating suspension. Certainly there is very little downward pressure on the drooping wheel and so traction will be limited.
Click to expand...


This is how I understand it. So dislocating springs are a waste of time?

I am having coils made two inchs longer which means I won't need dislocation cones fitted when I fit +2" shocks.

The closed length of the shock is 1" longer so I should be ok with standard bump stops right?
 
Now I'm not an off roader like some on here so I may be slightly off with this.

You can get a huge variety of + 2" lift kits off the net. mm-4x4 paddocks, ebay and others.
These come with longer shocks and matched springs. Most kits come with extended bump stops, as standard ones are too short and can lead to the shock going to far ina blowing a seal.

A lot of articulation is taken up by the leveller so removing allows more movement. (no idea on MOT though)

If you go further than 2" lift you will probably have to change your break flexi hoses, radius and trailing arms. You may also need to alter the prop shafts and panhard rod. But that is dependant on how much lift you go for.
Also remember that you diffs are the lowest point of ground clearance. So I would suggest get bigger tyres as well. I think standard vouges are 27/28 inch in height.
 
dicky39v8 said:
The closed length of the shock is 1" longer so I should be ok with standard bump stops right?
Click to expand...

Er, no. If the shock is 1" longer than standard when fully compressed then you will be 1" away from your standard bump stop when the shock 'bottoms out'.

You either need extended bump stops or to move the shock mounts up so that the bump stops work just before the shock reaches maximum compression. This of course will lose you some down travel.

The easiest way is to measure it. Fit the springs and give the suspension full flex and measure both sides to give you max compression and max droop, then find some shocks that match.
 
I was under the impression that 1" longer shocks when compressed would be no problem on std bump stops.

You are right about doing to some measureing.
 
Just for reference. I fitted new suspension to my classic about 18 months ago. HD springs with Gaz shocks (I know **** part) With the old bump stop on ( the only one on the car) I jacked up the axle and at full depression of shock it did not touch standard stop. For the few quid they cost I wouldn't risk blowing a shock out.
 
Cheers,

So my best bet is my custom 2" longer springs, +2" longer pro comp shocks and either taller bump stops or 1" spacer plates.

Sorted!:)
 
If you think about it the boge leveller should have SFA affect on true articulation since it mounts to the centre of the axle! The problem would arise when it tried to pull back the 2" of lift you've just gone to the trouble of adding without telling it :)

As andyb says above the dropping wheel is going to have little traction at the end of it travel so I don't see a whole lot of point to them. As soon as the spring leaves the mount you only have the dead weight of the wheel/axle acting on it, doubt that will do a whole pile to stop a spinning wheel.
 
Cool beans.

I am just about to order the Pro Comp 9255## shocks which are +4" extended and +2" closed, and fit 2" higher rear shock mounts and 2" taller turrets with std bump stops.

That way I have 2" more travel and with the 2" longer springs more ride height. And keep the BOGE.
 
Yeah but with the BOGE the Rangie was able to have much softer spring rates compared to the Disco which gave it supieror articulation.

Suppose I am not carrying any weight after choping the rear body and chassis off so it is proberbly useless for my use.
 
dicky39v8 said:
Yeah but with the BOGE the Rangie was able to have much softer spring rates compared to the Disco which gave it supieror articulation.

Suppose I am not carrying any weight after choping the rear body and chassis off so it is proberbly useless for my use.
Click to expand...

A little bit of pedantry here but softer spring rates won't affect articulation, just traction and ride comfort.

You just need to remember what the boge was for, it was for self leveling when you added weight allowing softer springs to be used for better ride comfort and traction. That was the reason it was mounted to the centre of the axle, it only worked in pitch not for pot holes etc, had the downside of allowing the infamous roll angles Rangies are noted for.
Its unlikely that you will be altering the weight of your tray back much so keeping it won't bring much to the party and as andyb says above might only lead to problems
 
It Took me about a month to decide on what springs to get for my 90 and then a furthur 3 weeks after work and weekends of measuring and wedging up wheels in arches on lock and what not to get the best from Standard shocks. My 37 inch tyres now do not rub the rear tub any more and are within 5mm of hitting with max droop possible still using Standard length shocks. "Lift Kits" are very much over rated. Depending on how they "Lift" the vehicle depends on how they perform off road. Dislocaion is great for showing off to your mates but bugger all good for anything else. save your money but a diff locker and uprated shafts.

Its like baking a cake you can get a ready mix and it will be ok, but if you actually apply some logic and the right ingredients you can end up with a very tastey setup.
 
Softer springs do improove articulation although they wont increase travel.

A soft spring easily compresses and helps keep all wheels in contact with the ground where as a hard spring has more chance of cocking a wheel in the air if spring rate are to stiff.

I will proberbly remove the BOGE, are they easy to remove?
 
Unfortunatly +2 springs and +4 inch shocks taller shock towers etc all sounds very impressive to noobies but to anyone that has done off road driving/competitions Especially Trialling for any length of time its just more pointless bling. Another thing to brag about to your mates that yours articulates more than them. Take Bulldog Terry TD5 got the highest articulation at Billing show a couple of years ago. All very impressive although I have witnessed him being out driven by a Series III where he got stuck for 10 minutes lockers and all and the series trundled through as did my 90.

You'd be better off spending the money and joining a club learn to drive offroad then get some difflocks and uprated shafts and so on once you get to that stage.

Unfortunatly there is no substitute for knowing your vehicle and offroad driving experience. There is no cheat no easy way and you can only buy yourself mods to get you so far before your own abilities let you down. Many old boys that have been trialling for donkeys years will get their standard motor places that many modified motors would only dream of getting. Believe me many a time the good old boys have out done us younger folk Ted does always his driving skill is amazing and he will get his little engined leaf sprung vehicle more places than most modified "chalenge spec" defenders

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ea6Skkqg3Xo"]YouTube- AWDC Trials Brick Kiln farm Alton Jeep Wrangler with diff lock Part1[/ame]
 
Somtimes he takes it to the limit:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uG26XNXBvws&feature=related"]YouTube- role over AWDC trials[/ame]
 
Before fitting any kind of offered "Lift KIT" or indeed anything I would want to know the following:

Spring rates,
Spring height,
Shock extended lengt,
Shock compressed length,

Be wary of any shock mounts that change the shock angle as that also affects damping operation.

My mods are thought out and are for my needs and need only be good enough for a recovery vehicle for comp safaris and CCV trials. Somtimes Getting to those places where the motors tend to invert themselves tend to mean big tyres, a locker and ability to drive through deep water and gloop just to get near such places.
 
Is as if know one has read the entire thread, I have ordered some custom springs due to reduced weight of a tray back range rover I am building.

And yes I have done a fair bit of pay and play days and some AWDC Trials to which I cam first in my class.

All I want to do is increase the ride height by 2" but to not loose any articulation, even though I am gaining 2" which proberbly will be hardly noticable unless I was climbing rocks.

I have worked out all of the shock extended and closed dimensions and spring rates and free lengths and think I have got it right.

Belive me when I say I am trying to do this on a budget, £250 for the Car, £300 for the tyres, and £30 a spring, no spot lamps or winches or flahing beacons here.

Will see how it turns out when fitted.:confused:
 
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