Freelander 1 Time to say hi.....

Hello Freebie peeps......

Long time LZ Member - mainly Range Rovers, but just bought the other half a Freebie...

Got the EML on, but I'll plug it into the diagnostics in the next couple of days and see what the EDC is complaining about - be it No1 Injector, MAP, MAF, IAT, Coolant Temp etc etc....we'll cross these bridges at that time.

Picked up for just over £350 so there is spare £ to put her right I guess.

She's over the moon with it and it means I get my L322 back from her clutches!!!

Looking forward to getting further acquainted with the new purchase, and also you fellow Freebie/Hippo owners.

So pics to whet the appetite.

Cracking motor

The best Freelander, L Series diesel - ooze character (and smoke if you're not on top of things)

You got the back seat cubby box and parcel shelf to - they're like rocking horse poo! .. plus the missing ribbed bits on the wing mirrors - that's not so rare!

Really surprised it has those goodies - but no roof rails, you need to get a set, the 3 doors look wrong without them.

I know you're very knowledgeable about RRs, but are you familiar with the Freelander transmission? I'm presuming its still 4WD, and that you'd like to keep it that way. The Freelander transmission, and the way the viscous coupling works, is hugely different to RR and much more liable to chew the transmission.

A good start point, and things everyone should check on their new Freelander is here...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

That's an early one. Nice.

Other than those tests, a wise safety check to do is to take the rear wheels and drums off to examine the brakes. The little pins holding the shoes in place have a tendency to break due to rust - the shoes shift, "plunger" comes out of the cylinder, you lose your brake fluid and all braking ability without warning. Its been reported at least 3 times on the forum since I've been on here.

I know I've put up quite a few potential problems - but they are pretty reliable little trucks. Mine's an L Series and its boringly reliable.

The L Series is bullet proof and should outlive the car (and most of us on the forum!). Its very lethargic accelerating from rest, but once moving its fine and returns good economy. The one important thing to keep an eye on with the L Series is the fan/drive/aux belt tensioner. They are known to fail - when they do the belt comes off and generally gets wrapped around the main pulley and takes out the cam belt - night night engine. Once again probably been reported about 3 times while I've been on the forum and a well known "characteristic" among the Rover/Land Rover enthusiasts.

Thanks chaps, Yep I am aware of the VCU/IRD issues that plagued the FL's. This one has the rear prop disconnected, but once I have checked the fluids, in-particularly the IRD, so I can ascertain the condition of the unit and the rear diff, I'll be o nthe look out for a replacement.

I had heard of the rear brake pin issue, and thanks for the info, I will check that out also....I have to say despite being a 100% Range Rover fan having owned them for the last 20+ years, the little Freebie is quite a fun car to drive and look at!

I am sure I will be getting more familiar with it soon enough, and be bugging you knowledgeable chaps and chappettes on here for advice!

There's a couple of threads running at the moment about props being removed and reinstating them. Would be worth a read if you haven't yet...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/second-hand-prop-shaft.338509/
and
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/2004-freelander-td4-3dr.338669/

The complexity and/or expense really (IMHO) depends on whether there's damage to the crown & pinion gears of the IRD rear axle PTO - that and your desired ratio of effort to cost! I'm not so familiar with the rear diff, never having had mine apart to fix (although I have a spare I've opened up in the garage). With the IRD - make sure you loosen the fill plug before removing the drain plug - they are soft as.

Good luck with it, and let us know what you find

Do a owut with some urgency to assess vcu condition, don’t put it off for another day !

Saint.V8 said:

I have to say despite being a 100% Range Rover fan having owned them for the last 20+ years, the little Freebie is quite a fun car to drive and look at!

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You'll find the Freelander more reliable than a RR.

Really appreciate the welcome and the awesome advice, I will read with vigour all I can and I am slowly getting my way through the RAVE Freelander sections - makes pleasant reading after tearing hair out reading the Range Rover stuff!!

I think the rear door glass needs a look at - it opens and closes on the toggle, opens on the remote button - but when you go to open the rear door - it goes to drop but stops, you can slide the glass down using your hand, so it does work - and was working when we went to look at her, it is as if there is some slack in the cabling and it is not pulling the glass down and it is stuck on the upper seal - as I say, if you 'palm' the glass down it goes down to where it would normally stop - so that requires investigation further!

Land Rovers - such fun!

Saint.V8 said:

I think the rear door glass needs a look at

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...and there we were saying how much more reliable they are than RR

I'm sure someone from the RR design team was given the job of the Freelander back door - the window and latching systems have more sensors and gadgets than a hospital operating theater... or so it seams to me. I've never had anything go wrong with mine - which is probably due to reading the threads that go through here and keeping my fingers crossed that it continues to work properly. I find that crossing fingers is as important as regular lubrication etc in the maintenance of Land Rovers

The frameless top to the back door is good - it looks good and enables the 3 door with its removable rear section to have been created - but adds a lot of complexity to the vehicle.

Welcome to reliable cost effective motoring. Am sure it won't take long for YOUR Freelander to become the pride and joy of the family. I wish yer many happy miles driving int YOUR Freelander.

Quick update:

Plugged the Freebie into the diagnostics today, Boost Signal up the swanny, checked live data and the reading from the MAP was static....

Checked MAP pipe and that was clear, checked the wiring through to the ECU, MAP port was clear too, no splits in the pipe or the end rubber connections so that was all groovy - a quick call to local Landy Indy, they have MAP sensor on the shelf, dashed over, paid the silly price for it (£137) got back, plugged in - EML out, back on diagnostics, cleared out the fault code - checked live data and the readings was fluctuating with load and accelerator position etc.

Took it her for a drive and all seems well with the world.

Next up is to figure out the passenger central locking - won't unlock on the fob (double press either!), won't unlock on the interior lock button, but will lock on the fob and will lock on the interior button, so either there is no signal to the lock for an unlock movement, or the lock isn't responding to said signal!

Saint.V8 said:

Next up is to figure out the passenger central locking - won't unlock on the fob (double press either!), won't unlock on the interior lock button, but will lock on the fob and will lock on the interior button, so either there is no signal to the lock for an unlock movement, or the lock isn't responding to said signal

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It'll be the lock assembly. Find one from a Rover 75, as they cost less than the same item from LR.

Nodge68 said:

It'll be the lock assembly. Find one from a Rover 75, as they cost less than the same item from LR.

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Grand - thanks for the advice - hunt is on when I get home!

Saint.V8 said:

Grand - thanks for the advice - hunt is on when I get home!

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As a rule, you'll find most LR items will cost more than the same item that's sold for a Rover. There's not many items that are the same, but those Rover items do cost less.