Three Probalems at Once

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Woods its a pain in the arse to do unless you have a spreader or your diff is fooked. People leaver them out apparently but I'm not for that at all its just a quick way of wrecking it Jai
 
Ok your best bet is to try and borrow a tool from somone I gave the one I borrowed to a mate last weekend at the comp so I haven't got one anymore but will look into making one asap cos they are handy.

Is the input flange (the bit the propshaft bolts to on the diff) loose does it move about?

What kind of metal was in the diff casing if any? Any pics? mabe we could identify the broken bits.

Can you rotate the diff and can you check the teeth on the gears are they chunked? or is there any marks on them that shouldnt be there?

Answer these and mabe take some pics and we will know more,

Your best and probably cheapest option is to buy a known good Second Hand axle disk braked if your feeling rich or drum braked if you are skint like me. I won mine for £20 but it was a bit of travelling but I work paid for my fuel there and back in Da van!


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-11...14&_trkparms=72:1689|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318

but its a disk conversion might be good might ba bad,

Jai
 
Last edited:
jai_landrover said:
Ok your best bet is to try and borrow a tool from somone I gave the one I borrowed to a mate last weekend at the comp so I haven't got one anymore but will look into making one asap cos they are handy.

Is the input flange (the bit the propshaft bolts to on the diff) loose does it move about?

What kind of metal was in the diff casing if any? Any pics? mabe we could identify the broken bits.

Can you rotate the diff and can you check the teeth on the gears are they chunked? or is there any marks on them that shouldnt be there?

Answer these and mabe take some pics and we will know more,

Your best and probably cheapest option is to buy a known good Second Hand axle disk braked if your feeling rich or drum braked if you are skint like me. I won mine for £20 but it was a bit of travelling but I work paid for my fuel there and back in Da van!


LAND ROVER 110 REAR SALISBURY AXLE on eBay, also, Land Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 02-Mar-09 22:16:03 GMT)

but its a disk conversion might be good might ba bad,

Jai
Click to expand...

Thanks for the links, much apprechiated.

The input flange does have play, and the axel leeks out there (no supprise with the play)

When i emptied the "oil", i just got muddy water that smelt of EP80. Presumbaly its filled up through the input flange when ive had it submersed. On the bright side, its not full of bits of metal. In fact, the whole unit looks in suprisingly good condition. I cant see any proplems with the catual diff gears, or the big gear that runs off the input flange gear. Cant see the input flange gear, presumably thats goting to be the problem if there is one. For now it looks like its just the bearings on the input flange, will have a go at tightening that nut first to see if that removes the play, but it still at least needs the seal changed.

Rich.
 
Presenting the evidence;:suspicious:
 

Attachments

  • Engineout 082.jpg
    Engineout 082.jpg
    254.4 KB · Views: 81
  • Engineout 083.jpg
    Engineout 083.jpg
    234.7 KB · Views: 91
  • Engineout 088.jpg
    Engineout 088.jpg
    256.5 KB · Views: 141
looks like theres some nice ****ty gritty water in there too, ideal for gridning of seals.

Take the flywheel housing off and clean it really well, use some Wyns carb cleaner aerosol for the bellhousing, comes up a treat then.
 
boydy1989 said:
id say that seal was suspect. Check that your clutch aint screwed an all, if its covered in oil then its worth replacing the friction disk.
Click to expand...

Its a new clutch, i fitted it with that seal about 3 months ago, after the previous seal ruined it! I left the plug out this time so it wouldent wreck the clutch again if it leaked, a wise move. But that move probaly explains how the muddy water has got in. :doh:

Probelm is, the seal looks fine, and my engines lost alot of oil. There is pleanty of oil on the bolt on cross member under the drain hole in the bell housing though, sighn im on the right track. Im going to use a offical part seal this time, but ive got no other ideas.
 
the oil where ever it is leaking from usually 80% of the time ends up on the x member the oil runs backwards and down as you drive just a thought Jai
 
The gasket between the engine block and the flywheel housing was buggered. I dident bother replacing it last time, ive got a new one now. I think some oil was being lost there. Ive also got a new rocker cover seal as the side of the engine is an oily/muddy mess. Looks like alot of its coming out the breather, prehaps i should put a pipe on the end of it too keep my lovely engine clean. :D

I forgot to get a new gasket for the diff pan though,:doh: im guessing Silicon Sealent is fine?
 
Last edited:
Ok thats all done, and the engins in but not hooked up. I notised that there was oil in the inlet manufolds, perhaps this is normal, but it has to have come from the turbo. So i decided to feel for play in the turbo shaft, and guess what, its all woobley. AAAAHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!:mad2::mad2::mad2:
 
Perhaps 1/4 of a mm, maybe 1/2 at the most, just enough to feel. Turbos spin at mega RPM, thought they should be tight. Also its a knowen fault for TD engins to suck there oil out through dodgey turbos, maybe where my oils going.

New rear crank seal went on nicly, a official one this time with a fitting "tool", just poped on with no hassle, inlike the rubber one that needed perswasion.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
RRC Loud Grinding Noise
Replies
2
Views
795
Series 2A
Series 2A
D
Gearbox Fail - With Pictures !!!!
Replies
14
Views
2K
Davidleeowen
D
R
fit fix ect FBH
Replies
0
Views
669
rhodie
R
D
My 200 TDi conversion
Replies
8
Views
3K
mmajor2
mmajor2
Back
Top