Three Probalems at Once

Ive got three new problems with my landrover....yey. Firstly, the rar diff propshaft output bearingas are fooked, its grinding and making all sorts of wonderfull noises, secondly the brakes arnt working, and finaly, the engines run out of oil as its all been coming out of the bell housing. I just changed the seal crank shaft output seal, but obviously theres still a problem.

Just would like to know, does a disco rear axel fit on a defender that has a sailsbury axel? Will the prop shaft reach, and can i swap over the spring seats from the defenders axel to the discos axel? Will i have to change anything for the brake lines?

Thanks, Rich.

woods767 said:

Ive got three new problems with my landrover....yey. Firstly, the rar diff propshaft output bearingas are fooked, its grinding and making all sorts of wonderfull noises, secondly the brakes arnt working, and finaly, the engines run out of oil as its all been coming out of the bell housing. I just changed the seal crank shaft output seal, but obviously theres still a problem.

Just would like to know, does a disco rear axel fit on a defender that has a sailsbury axel? Will the prop shaft reach, and can i swap over the spring seats from the defenders axel to the discos axel? Will i have to change anything for the brake lines?

Thanks, Rich.

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youll need a slightly longer prop, an on your 110 i can't imagine a disco axle lasting all that long.

You should be able to transfer all the brake parts though, bit by bit.
Is your engine still leaking oil out the back?

And whats up with the brakes?

The engine has litraly rejected all its nice new oil out through the back. Duno whats up with the brakes, seems like the power system is failing even though i bought it a new servo unit in december.

How easy it it to take the engine out with a crane, you use a crain dont you? Last time we used a fork lift and it was still an ass ache.

I guess ill start with the rear output bearings then. Then find out whats wrong with the brakes, then see about the engine. I also smaked up the side of it offroading at the weekend, the sill in in the boot in bits and the rear arch has taken a beeting, not that it realy matters, but its not much to look at at the moment.

piece of ****. When my engine did ths (crank nose grabbed the new seal and spun it in the housing) emptied all on the floor, it took me 6 hours to have the engine out, new seal fitted after waiting for postie to deliver it, engine back in and running. And i did a 300 mile journey in it that night.

If you can wait til april then i can come down and help you do it.

If not its easy with a mate to help.

Brakes, check the vacuum pump is working correctly.

oh yeah, diff rear output bearings are easy to replace, can do the entire job in a few hours. Most painful bit is pressing out the old bearing.

(I guess you mean transfer box rear output bearings)

Hmm...is the vacume pump lubricated be the engines oil? because if it is, then theres a reason for it to be bugged right there.

boydy1989 said:

oh yeah, diff rear output bearings are easy to replace, can do the entire job in a few hours. Most painful bit is pressing out the old bearing.

(I guess you mean transfer box rear output bearings)

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Nope, i mean axel end. The output is loose and its making hurrnedus noises and actuay locked the drive when i tryed reversing it down the drive way. Could be a more serous rear diff problem.

pop a new bearing into it. Easy on rover diffs, never done salibury. Can't be that had.

An yeah the vacuum pump runs off the end of the camshaft.

What engine you got again?

An, do you want a hand?

Disco 200, much as id apprechate a hand, i cant leave it till April. I need it to go places!

fair enough. Lifting with a crane is easy, but get a mate or better two, as it can be a pig. Jus take it easy, and make sure the clutch is lined up when you put it back on.

When refitting the new oil seal, i found it best to do the following.

Remove the flywheel (obsviously)

Then remove the flywheel housing. Push out old seal. Then, clean everything religiously - flywheel housing in and out, mating face on back of block, everything. Then, refit the seal in the housing, using some Wurth black sticky ****. I borrowed some of the local garage, dnt bother using anything else. Seriously, this stuff sticks like ****, the bloke in the garage described it very accurately as stuff to stick blankets to babies.

LEAVE THE PLASTIC GUIDE RING THING IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SEAL - DO NOT REMOVE IT. NOT EVEN IN YOUR LIVING ROOM.

Stick the new seal in with that, and make ABSOLUTELY sure that you use the oil seal upside down to hammer it in - it will sit in quite far. Like this.



Then, add a smear of engine oil to the seal, and REALLY carefully, slide it in over the crank nose. If you line the plastic guide ring up with the nose, and push carefully, and straight, the crank nose should push the guide ring out, so allowing the seal to slight nicely over your LUBRICATED crank nose.

Oh yeah, also put some silicoon gasket goo all over the mating surfaces of the flywheel housing to the block - you should be able to get 2 complete 'circles' with this, this step is important too.

Then, refit the flywheel, andclutch, and engine.

Oh yeah, leave at least 12 hours if you can before you even turn the engine, to let the wurth gunk set in place.

Oh yeah, this is what happened when my seal failed.

Like i said i already fitted a seal a fiew months ago, but it was a full rubber type seal, and i dident stick it in with anything. Will get an official one this time. Thanks for the guide i will follow your instructions.

Would water got mixed in with the brake fluid as you were submerged for a time.Also see if youve damaged any brake pipes

redwingslandrover said:

Would water got mixed in with the brake fluid as you were submerged for a time.Also see if youve damaged any brake pipes

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I think its the vacume pump. Seems like theres no power asistance, and its got a new servo so that just leaves the pump.

Having difficulty finding somwhere that sells the output bearings, will give paddock a phone call tomorrow.

do you mean output bearings? I dont know how a salisbury diff works meself though.

boydy1989 said:

do you mean output bearings? I dont know how a salisbury diff works meself though.

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i have no idea what i mean. The bit on the axel that the propshaft attaches too has significant play, and i dont just mean rotation. its not a good thing.

Salisbury axle is different. its not a case of undoing the input flange nut and fixing the bearing and doing up the nut. The nut preloads the pinion and you need a special tool to install the seal and you need to mark and count how many turns the nut goes to preload to its desired preloading. But now its fooked you cant do this as your starting point it no fooked aswell. Check that the nut isnt loose! if its loose the pinion could well be loose and moving about against and away from the crownwheel. Its likley that you will need a new crownwheel at minimum if not a diff. Jai

Thats the input bearing. But like i said, i dnt knwo about salisbury. Jai does though, and his news sounds bad.

Yea sounds like im buggered. I dont mind pulling the diff appart but apparently you need to "spred" the axel and that sounds like it needs expensive tools and experience. Ill fix the problems i know about then take it to inside out 4x4 perhaps if it wants to go.

Anyone know how to get the diff out? ive got it drained, the covers is off the back and the prop is off. Looks like there is a bracket each side to come off, but i saw somwhere that oyu have to "spread"the axel with a tool that fits into the slots eather side off the diff.