The none rebuild, rebuild thread.

[mick the builder]

They look a lot worse than they are so a sandblast and red oxide will do. Might have a go at welding some ally over the holes so i can pop rivet them back down then underseal it all. £35 + vat x 6no. is i bit to much for something that will never be seen.

 

[Al2O3]

They look a lot worse than they are so a sandblast and red oxide will do. Might have a go at welding some ally over the holes so i can pop rivet them back down then underseal it all. £35 + vat x 6no. is i bit to much for something that will never be seen.

I, it soon mounts up.
If you can get them sandblasted that'll make a massive difference to getting paint to last.
The floor supports are called top hats for some reason. (shape of profile I'm guessing) They're £15 +VAT etc
Can you weld ally?

 

[Jam1]

They look a lot worse than they are so a sandblast and red oxide will do. Might have a go at welding some ally over the holes so i can pop rivet them back down then underseal it all. £35 + vat x 6no. is i bit to much for something that will never be seen.

Yeah for £35+ each I'd seriously be looking at some way of making something out of two different sizes of box section or similar instead if they were past it

 

[mick the builder]

I, it soon mounts up.
If you can get them sandblasted that'll make a massive difference to getting paint to last.
The floor supports are called top hats for some reason. (shape of profile I'm guessing) They're £15 +VAT etc
Can you weld ally?

Can only try. Watched enough vids on you tube. I can use the mig with ally wire and co2. Apparently, like after a few guinesses and a curry, one uses the " splatter technique". You dont hold the tip as close as you would steel and crank it up. Heating up the metal helps. Only problem could be the wire getting clogged in the feed hose so you must keep it straight and free from kinks.

 

[Alibro]

Can only try. Watched enough vids on you tube. I can use the mig with ally wire and co2. Apparently, like after a few guinesses and a curry, one uses the " splatter technique". You dont hold the tip as close as you would steel and crank it up. Heating up the metal helps. Only problem could be the wire getting clogged in the feed hose so you must keep it straight and free from kinks.

Probably be cheaper to take it to a welder who can do ally, by the time you buy the Co2 and reel of ally wire

 

[Al2O3]

Can only try. Watched enough vids on you tube. I can use the mig with ally wire and co2. Apparently, like after a few guinesses and a curry, one uses the " splatter technique". You dont hold the tip as close as you would steel and crank it up. Heating up the metal helps. Only problem could be the wire getting clogged in the feed hose so you must keep it straight and free from kinks.

Good luck, Mick. I like your positive approach

 

[mick the builder]

Probably be cheaper to take it to a welder who can do ally, by the time you buy the Co2 and reel of ally wire

got it sitting in the shed

 

[mick the builder]

So it seems that welding ally isnt as easy as " chuck e 2900" would lead us to believe! It seems cleanliness is the answer and trying to weld powdercoated ally to corroded ally isnt that straight forward

So to stop me loosing the plot i have decided to pop rivet them together.

I might braze them together if i can get the rods but as it will still not have any added strength, i might just leave as is, it will be covered by the cross members.
Only 7 more to do.

 

[IamRobbie]

I can barely weld steel never mind ally, love the rebuild, ive probably read it 3 times since you started but for some reason have never posted. Keep the pics coming

 

[Al2O3]

Have you seen this video, Mick? YouTube

 

[mick the builder]

I can barely weld steel never mind ally, love the rebuild, ive probably read it 3 times since you started but for some reason have never posted. Keep the pics coming

Thanks Robbie, This thread is destined to go on and on.

Have you seen this video, Mick? YouTube

I have seen that video Al and thats what swayed me to braze instead of weld. I saw these rods on amazon but didnt remember the link to you tube. It now is all clear. I will try to see if they have these rods at my local welding supply shop and if not will order online, ( more time spent waiting for delivery) I think the ally still needs to be ultra clean as in the vid. Id like to see it used on old ally.

 

[Al2O3]

Thanks Robbie, This thread is destined to go on and on.


I have seen that video Al and thats what swayed me to braze instead of weld. I saw these rods on amazon but didnt remember the link to you tube. It now is all clear. I will try to see if they have these rods at my local welding supply shop and if not will order online, ( more time spent waiting for delivery) I think the ally still needs to be ultra clean as in the vid. Id like to see it used on old ally.

Yeah, looks like magic in the video. Things are rarely as good as they are made out. Get it back to shiny metal though and you never know!

 

[Jam1]

That's the problem with ally though, as soon as you take it back to a clean surface it has already oxidised, that's what flux is for

 

[mick the builder]

today was the first chance ive had to do any more on the build. As my mate who has an all singing and dancing sand blasting booth is shut till the new year and i havent got round to making one out of the ibc in the picture, i came up with a portable one.

Anyway got all the floor supports, wing struts and seat belt mounts blasted and painted and hung up to dry.

Decided to shultz the underbody prior to riveting back on the supports to create a barrier between the two and stop oxidation.

Will get them back on tomorrow hopefully.

 

[Al2O3]

Well done, Mick. Bet you're pleased to be getting some jobs done. That floor is looking spot on.

 

[mick the builder]

Well done, Mick. Bet you're pleased to be getting some jobs done. That floor is looking spot on.

Thanks Al. Im pleased so far with the floor and will be even happier when i can actually get it back on the chassis. Im getting fed up trying to navigate my way around everything in the shed.Thats why i had a go at sandblasting in the open. It gets everywhere! Once thats on i can concentrate on bodywork and paint.

 

[zeaphod]

Looking great and you're nearly there - once the tub and seatbox are on you can drive it!

 

[mick the builder]

Finally finished the underneath of the tub. So much work and time gone into something that will only be seen by mot tester. Bonded and pop riveted some ally strips under the bend at the bottom of the wings. I had to cut the fold to enable me to straighten the panel. They had been hit which stretched the fold and there was no way i could get the panel straight again without cutting the fold. Anyway just need to flip it over and start on the bodywork. Not sure whether to bolt it back on the chassis or do the body work while on the stools? May save any overspray getting onto chassis.

 

[Al2O3]

Nice work, Mick.
Yes, only seen by MOT tester. But! You have the pleasure of knowing that it's solid and well built under there. Hard graft and great quality work brings lasting job satisfaction.

 

[mick the builder]

Hi to anybody who remembers that im trying to overhaul my 110. Cant believe its been 10 months since i updated the thread. Not too much has happened mainly because i completely lost interest in it and work being as it is, had no money to spare on it. Anyway, the missus is sick looking at it and has released some funds for me to carry on. I am now on to the boring bodywork stage. Every panel needs work so have spent ages panel beating the rear quarters of the tub and and filling dents in the wing . The seat box just needed a good clean and rub down. Decided on Ford Cobalt blue metallic base coat and a 2k clear coat. Ive spent the last 2 days spraying them and heres the results. Its not concourse but its honest. It will be a country vehicle after all. Just waiting for some raptur bedliner to coat the tub and the underside of the seatbox then i can fit them to the chassis, roll it out under the carport to make some space to work on the roof, bonnet and doors.
Heres a few pics. ( note the diy extractor set up using a bouncy castle blower.)