The none rebuild, rebuild thread.

[mick the builder]

I got this to replace my 88 110 that went bang underneath. I didnt have time to sort that out and this one came up so i bought it. It had a few oil leaks which i thought id better get on with. Its now ended up like this.
Wish id got me spanners out

Jig made up to position new rear x member.
Dont expect this to be a quick rebuild

 

[aaronmorris]

Nice What's the plan then?

 

[mick the builder]

Nice What's the plan then?

No big plans, staying bog standard. If there good enough for armed forces and utility companies standard, then good enough for me. Oh and the fact ive go no money to spend on it Just have to resist nicking bits off the black one in forground. Clean and weld up chassis, paint, put back gearbox, trans box and steering box that JM's done up for me then put it all back together.

 

[aaronmorris]

No big plans, staying bog standard. If there good enough for armed forces and utility companies standard, then good enough for me. Oh and the fact ive go no money to spend on it Just have to resist nicking bits off the black one in forground. Clean and weld up chassis, paint, put back gearbox, trans box and steering box that JM's done up for me then put it all back together.

Ah fairy snuff, standard is good
'Tis a nice workshop you've got too.
And is that one of Clives crossmembers I spy

 

[Station House]

Good stuff Mick

Get that chassis and bulkhead stuffed full of Dinitrol or anker wax while you're at it

 

[mick the builder]

Good stuff Mick

Get that chassis and bulkhead stuffed full of Dinitrol or anker wax while you're at it

Thats the plan. Spending a lot of time on chassis and the rest can be done "as and when". There was a coating of something on the chassis which has saved it a lot. Prob waxoyl,looks waxy. anyway gonna fill up the rails and coat the outside before putting it all back together.

 

[mick the builder]

Not much done today, was going to cut off the rear x member but found rust along and up towards spring hangers so without the chassis rails, there was no point starting there.
So decided to tackle some of the other holes i found along the chassis.

Cut the soft metal out and made up new section to weld in.

Tied up the loom with some wire through hole in top of chassis.

welded in new section. One day ill get the hang of this welding lark. One side went great, the other side blew holes in the metal. Trying to fill holes for ages. Went through more grinding wheels than welding wire. Not happy

 

[LifetimeLandy]

I got this to replace my 88 110 that went bang underneath. I didnt have time to sort that out and this one came up so i bought it. It had a few oil leaks which i thought id better get on with. Its now ended up like this.
Wish id got me spanners out

Jig made up to position new rear x member.
Dont expect this to be a quick rebuild

I like the new X member. Nice and thick steel, you won't need to replace that one.

 

[mick the builder]

Not much done today, reworked my jig for the crossmember. Used 2x1 box tacked to the spring hangers then the 2" angle.

Once i was happy, the point of no return,

New crossmember bolted to jig.
Just waiting for chassis extensions to turn up Then can weld it all up.

While the backs off, will order some dinitrol and fill the chassis rails.

 

[Karls]

Mick, that's exactly what I need to do and mine's in the same state of strip down. I was pondering whether or not to patch up the cross member or go for the Blacksheep (Clive's) replacement like you have got. Where are you getting the chassis arms from - Clive? I'll be following your progress with interest! Good luck.

 

[Marmaduke]

If the chassis is fairly clean I'd recommend POR15 before you Dinitrol it

 

[mick the builder]

If the chassis is fairly clean I'd recommend POR15 before you Dinitrol it

Was going to do inside of chassis with cavity wax.

 

[Marmaduke]

Sorry I meant for the outside

 

[mick the builder]

Mick, that's exactly what I need to do and mine's in the same state of strip down. I was pondering whether or not to patch up the cross member or go for the Blacksheep (Clive's) replacement like you have got. Where are you getting the chassis arms from - Clive? I'll be following your progress with interest! Good luck.

Dont hold your breath its going to slow down a bit now. Getting the chassis rails from Pressbrake (clive). He sent me a 90 xmember instead of a110 so is getting the different rails made up and sent over. Ill fab up the brackets for the tank when its all together. While im waiting for clive, ill order the dinitrol and get the inside of the chassis a good coating. Youll probably overtake me on the build so stick up some photos and ill learn from you.

 

[Karls]

Dont hold your breath its going to slow down a bit now. Getting the chassis rails from Pressbrake (clive). He sent me a 90 xmember instead of a110 so is getting the different rails made up and sent over. Ill fab up the brackets for the tank when its all together. While im waiting for clive, ill order the dinitrol and get the inside of the chassis a good coating. Youll probably overtake me on the build so stick up some photos and ill learn from you.

Blimey, I think it will be a competition to see who can do it the slowest! I need to decide which route I'm going to take; patch it up or like you do it properly. I know what I should do but it's like 'where do I stop?' as I haven't even ventured past the bulkhead yet. I'll make some more exploratory holes in the rails & cross member first and I'm sure that will give me the answer!

 

[mick the builder]

Blimey, I think it will be a competition to see who can do it the slowest! I need to decide which route I'm going to take; patch it up or like you do it properly. I know what I should do but it's like 'where do I stop?' as I haven't even ventured past the bulkhead yet. I'll make some more exploratory holes in the rails & cross member first and I'm sure that will give me the answer!

As you know, all i wanted to do was replace the rear crank oil seal to stop the drip and this is where its ended up. I thought i had a reasonably good chassis but knew the xmem. had a few thin parts in the back. Its only when i took the body off that i saw the true state of the back and top of the xmem. I then started hitting the chassis in the problem ares with pointed welding hammer and thats when the holes started to appear. If you intend keeping it, change the xmem. Just as easy as patching really.

 

[Karls]

As you know, all i wanted to do was replace the rear crank oil seal to stop the drip and this is where its ended up. I thought i had a reasonably good chassis but knew the xmem. had a few thin parts in the back. Its only when i took the body off that i saw the true state of the back and top of the xmem. I then started hitting the chassis in the problem ares with pointed welding hammer and thats when the holes started to appear. If you intend keeping it, change the xmem. Just as easy as patching really.

Well, today I finally managed (after being ill for two weeks) to get a decent look at the cross member and confirm my suspicions that it's really beyond saving. So a call to Clive at Pressbrake was made and an order placed for new cross member and chassis arm plates. :clap2: Glad I've bitten the bullet now as I don't like making shortcuts. This Land Rover once it's built is going to be the mutts! My bank balance will be the opposite

 

[mick the builder]

Nice one. Is pressbrake back in business again???

 

[Karls]

Nice one. Is pressbrake back in business again???

Well, Blacksheep then but same man yes?

 

[blue beasty]

Well, Blacksheep then but same man yes?

Yes