The Mrs bought a bargain...

Sounds like I'm gonna be learning to weld!
I haven't tried the wheel up test yet as I'm a bit terrified of what I'm gonna find!

I've never had to do much welding on any of my cars but testing the VCU is a priority.

One of the lads at my work is gonna lend me his biggest breaker so sounds like a job for Saturday morning while the mrs gets her hair done!

You can do it with the wheel brace on one of the wheel nuts too so long as you adjust for it not being in the centre.

It's alright, one of the guys I work with used to build and crew on dragsters so his garage is like an aladins cave! A tool for everything if you can find it!

Success! The VCU isn't seized, the fuel pump and sender are replaced, the idle problem is sorted and the filters other than the oil filter are done! Brakes and photos this weekend when I've got the light.

Had a look at the tailgate this morning, it opens as soon as I unlock the car and goes back up with the key but the glass isn't straight against the hard top and it never goes all the way down into the door like I've seen on videos. I'll have to get the door card off to check it but could it just be poor fitting?

Conners said:

Had a look at the tailgate this morning, it opens as soon as I unlock the car and goes back up with the key but the glass isn't straight against the hard top and it never goes all the way down into the door like I've seen on videos. I'll have to get the door card off to check it but could it just be poor fitting?

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That’s what mine did before it packed up completely so it’s in mid cease if it won’t go down completely. Lucky for me I left it down an inch and ordered the replacement kit. Take it all apart and have a good look for snapped cables by tugging on them. If it gets stuck up you will have to do major damage to get it unstuck.

Ahh that makes sense, thanks MM.
Don't suppose you've got a link to the kit you bought?

Conners said:

Ahh that makes sense, thanks MM.
Don't suppose you've got a link to the kit you bought?

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I bought the expensive one because its too cold wet and I am an old git with no patience
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Freeland...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Madmustang said:

I bought the expensive one because its too cold wet and I am an old git with no patience
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Freelander-1-Rear-Tailgate-Window-Regulator-With-Electric-Motor-CVH101150/331405174124?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

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If you don't mind fiddling then buy the same thing but without the motor.
If you don't mind serious fiddling then buy a cable kit. There are videos on youtube explaining how to fit them, Nodge has good success with the kits but I've had a few issues with them so I buy the complete regulator sans motor.

This might be helpful
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/how-to-tailgate-window-regulator-repair-replacement.246939/

Alibro said:

You can do it with the wheel brace on one of the wheel nuts too so long as you adjust for it not being in the centre.

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Is the brace long enough then? What sort of weight needs to be on the end?

wolflore said:

Is the brace long enough then? What sort of weight needs to be on the end?

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You'd need a pole over, or strapped to, the brace with a 5KG weight on the end (eg a 5L milk bottle filled with water). The pole needs to end 1.2M from the center of the wheel. If you use those that weight/dimension you can use the timings quoted on the threads.

wolflore said:

Is the brace long enough then? What sort of weight needs to be on the end?

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The weight is standard OWUT weight, most folk go with 5kg. The weight needs to be 1.2m from the centre of the hub so you'll need to rig up an extension to the wheel brace of the correct length. Make sure when you put the wheel brace on the nut it's in line with the centre of hub to get an accurate result.

Afternoon all! Apologies for going radio silence for a while! I was doing the whole "getting married" thing and was told that I should be focusing on that rather than the hippo! I have had chance to sort the tailgate and MM was right, new runners and motor and a bit of fiddling and the tailgate window is sorted. I've also done the wheel up test and hallelujah, it's OK so that's one expensive bit I don't need to worry about. Latest problem is that the clutch seems to bite rather low, on inspection the slave cylinder seems to be on it's last legs so I'm thinking of fitting a full Sheddist kit and just getting it sorted. Has anyone used one and are they worth the money? I'm also eyeing up an uprated head gasket kit but the wedding and honeymoon have left the poor pockets a little light for that right now! I'll upload some snaps when I get chance but they don't seem to want to work on my phone!

Conners said:

I'm thinking of fitting a full Sheddist kit and just getting it sorted. Has anyone used one and are they worth the money?

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I made one for my 50th Anniversary FL1 out of an MGF slave and Honda master cylinder.

Warren, proprietor of Muddy Mods was looking into making his own version of the Sheddist kit, potentially without the large Dark Ice Designs mark-up.

Hi Nodge, I know you can certainly get a Sheddist kit from MuddyMods for the same price as dark ice on ebay but it has the dark ice logo on it so I don't know how far he got with that! When was he talking about it? MuddyMods is handy for me as they're about 20 mins away from the in-laws!

DMGRS do the master and slave pieces for £30 and £38 respectively. So that means the bracket (normal one £10) and pipework makes up £100 - seams a bit steep to me.

Evening all! Quick update! Sheddist kit was finally fitted last night and in putting everything back together I found that the battery clamp bolt is shot so that's a job for Saturday! I would put pics up of the clutch hydraulics but the engine bay is in a dire state and needs a good clean. The clutch now works nicely, however, the gears are rather sticky and a bit of a pain which I'm putting down to gearbox oil or linkages? Can anyone tell me a quick easy way to get to the linkages to grease them or is it a Jack the car up and take off the sump guard job?