The Mrs bought a bargain...

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C

Conners

Member
Posts
26
Location
Derby, UK
Hi all - repost from the introduction page,

New to the forum after the Mrs decided to buy a "bargain" (read: project) 52 plate Freelander 1 3 door. Based in South Derby.

Problems so far:

- Rear window won't go back up (recalibration?) - Wiper arm is missing so could this cause any issue with park sensor?
- Rear brakes need some attention - got all new bits just waiting for the snow to go away so I can get them changed
- Surging revs - Checked HG and all ok so I'm thinking fuel pump - I know the sender doesn't work so I'm hoping a change will sort both issues
- SRS light - tried disconnecting the under-seat connectors but still showing so need to have a look at the ECU connector I think but any pointers would be appreciated

If anyone has any tips or pointers I'm always happy to take advice! :D

Ben
 
Rear window issues are normally calibration or failing that the cables.
The wiper won't work if the window isn't up.
Can't help with engine issue without knowing what the engine is.
SRS is best to do a diagnostic, which will pinpoint the problem.
 
Nodge68 said:
Rear window issues are normally calibration or failing that the cables.
The wiper won't work if the window isn't up.
Can't help with engine issue without knowing what the engine is.
SRS is best to do a diagnostic, which will pinpoint the problem.
Click to expand...
Hi Nodge,
Thanks for your response. Thought I'd mentioned it in the post but must have missed it, it's a 1.8 K series.
The wiper issue is that there isn't one there, I found the arm in the back of the car. I was wondering if this could cause issue with a wiper sensor and calibration of the window?
I've read several posts about people doing diagnostics on the SRS and replacing ECUs only to find it was just a connector so I'm hesitant but I'm willing to bet you know far, far more than me so I will try and get the local lad to run a diagnostic for me.

Thanks again,
Ben
 
If the rear window isn't working correctly, then the wiper will not work either. The CCU (body controller) will inhibit the wiper operation if it can't confirm the window is up. If the cables have snapped, then it's common for the wiper to stop working. There's a sensor in the window motor housing and another in the wiper motor housing. The CCU then controls what happens to the wiper, depending on what is happening to the window at the time.

SRS could be several items, but it's normal connectors at fault or the clock spring in the steering column.
 
IIRC, the steering column uses a standard MG Rover cable coupling for the air bag, horns and any other steering wheel functions. The problem with these is if someone has had this apart in the past: the rotary connector contains a ribbon cable - and if it is not replaced correctly, then the ribbon can be over tightened and damaged internally. If the horns don't work, this is where the problem is likely to lie. Fortunately replacement is a doddle.

Have you tried re-calibrating the rear window? Disconnect battery power and reconnect. The window should descend fully - and won't go back up fully until you press the internal window button. Once fully up, the system is recalibrated, and with a bit of luck, problem solved. (I'm an optimist!)

Surging/ hunting idle on the 1.8 K-series can have a number of causes - chances are that one of the sensors is at fault. Get a decent EOBD reader read any faults and look at the live data - should give a clearer idea of what is going on.

PS - need pictures of the new car, or it never happened ;)
 
Hi Rob,
Thanks for the response!
The horn is working so I don't think it's the rotary connector.

I've tried the window calibration with just disconnecting then reconnecting and it didn't work, it just beeped and went down again but I've seen a few posts on different methods so I'll give those a try. I just wondered if the wiper arm not being attached could cause a sensor issue.

Any idea where I can find a decent EOBD reader cheap?

I'll get pics up soon!
 
The window and wiper may be a double trouble issue because I believe if the wiper isn't "parked" on the rubber seal below the window, then the window will not function normally.

The CCU will know if it is parked by a sensor somewhere in the mechanism.
 
GrumpyGel said:
The window and wiper may be a double trouble issue because I believe if the wiper isn't "parked" on the rubber seal below the window, then the window will not function normally.

The CCU will know if it is parked by a sensor somewhere in the mechanism.
Click to expand...
That's correct GG. But the window should still drop to allow the door to open, even when the wiper is running. From memory, if the rear door is opened while the wiper is in motion, the wiper returns to the parked position. This is assuming the vehicle is stationary, as the door lock is disabled when moving.
 
Hi all,

Had absolutely no time on the car this weekend due to wedding jobs and re-doing the spare room

I think you may be right about the double trouble issue GG. The whole rear wiper unit was just in the boot so I'm wondering if that's what's stopping the window calibration properly?

Also, is the ECU for SRS somewhere behind the stereo? There's an aftermarket stereo so I'm wondering if someone has knocked something wiring it in?

Hopefully with the nights getting lighter I'll get some time on it this week and get some pics up!
 
One track failing in the clock spring is very common. Best way to confirm is to disconnect both ends and meter it out. If you don't have steering wheel volume controls then you'll hopefully have a spare track to use but that means moving pins in the connectors, if you're not keen on doing that then the clock spring is easy to replace.
Poor idle could be the idle control valve which is connected to the throttle body and a spray of carb cleaner could sort it. It could also be electrical so check/replace plugs, leads and coil packs.
For the boot door window take off the door card and have a look to check the cables. Lock mechanisms are often dodgy too but easy to replace.
 
Thanks Alibro.
I'll check the clock spring this week as well as the idle control valve and the back door. I've already got new plugs as I'm gonna change them out when I do the filters. The list just seems to keep piling up!
 
Conners said:
Thanks Alibro.
I'll check the clock spring this week as well as the idle control valve and the back door. I've already got new plugs as I'm gonna change them out when I do the filters. The list just seems to keep piling up!
Click to expand...
Ya gotta love these cheap bargain cars. :confused:
I bought a cheap Vauxhall Zafira in December that has cost me nearly £900 since in parts. A new inlet manifold, DPF, two lower suspension arms and various other small parts. :mad:
 
GrumpyGel said:
Nutta - could have pimped a £400 Freelander real good with £900 :)
Click to expand...
Hard to argue with that except I need the car to do high miles and carry lots of boxes. The Zaffy is great for that, will do over 45mpg and I was able to get a clean 2008, 150hp Elite (leather, CC, heated seats etc) with 98k miles and 4 new Kumho tyres for under £1500. Try getting any 08 Freelander for that sort of money?
I've since discovered that any Zaffy with the 150hp engine and similar miles will have the issues mine had. :mad:
At least it was cheap. :confused:
 
Alibro said:
Hard to argue with that except I need the car to do high miles and carry lots of boxes. The Zaffy is great for that, will do over 45mph and I was able to get a clean 2008, 150hp Elite (leather, CC, heated seats etc) with 98k miles and 4 new Kumho tyres for under £1500. Try getting any 08 Freelander for that sort of money?
I've since discovered that any Zaffy with the 150hp engine and similar miles will have the issues mine had. :confused:
Click to expand...
Lot of car for the money.
 
I think I'm around the £1k mark with the car and parts now Ali so I'll probably heading towards that number before long! I think my favourite bit of it was the "I made a mistake..." phone call I got when I was in the pub after work on a Friday! :D
 
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