the dreaded 70k

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ashleywood.ash

Active Member
Posts
558
Location
sheffield uk
Guys I am currently on 69849miles and after reading many times about the VCU 70k change I just want to ask should I do this? I know you will say its up to me but you seniors have had freelanders longer and more than me.

I have tried to read the tests and got a bit fed up of listening to that RIPEDOFF guy going on.

I have not noticed any driving issues with the car and dont have a long bar and weights etc, but I do have a torque wrench and 32mm socket.

does the jacking up the front and putting in first and turning rear offside wheel apply to automatics to? do I need it in D or 1?

anyways I have searched and I just would like the majority of opinion of whether you would change the VCU even though i dont appear to have any issues YET.

ps I know you say dont use recons but Ashcroft is not far from me and they seem to have a decent rep. are there recons ok and what are the avereage price of a recon to a new VCu.

cheers in advance
 
just jack up 1 wheel with car in neutralon both manual and auto and try and turn wheel with a bar on wheel nut should turn with some resistance
 
Just do the very basic reverse test please note that this test is for 2001 on ,as they changed rear ratio's after 2001 . . . . .on a level road from cold is best, put gaylander in reverse drive very slow with RH lock then again with LH lock. . . .did you feel any resistance ,binding or a feeling of the brakes being on. . . . .if yes then investigate further, as this could indicate the start of it [the Mad Hat Test is very good] also brakes could be binding [eliminate that] keep in mind also that the Vcu fails in two modes A = the worst ,locking up, this is the one we are testing for [this will frig your drive chain] or B = no drive at all [your motor is two wheel drive only]. . . . . . note this is the method i would prefer to use and test your motor about every month [it only takes a minute to do ] try not to get paranoid about this as a lot keep going for high mileage. . . .hope this helps :):):)
 
ming said:
Just do the very basic reverse test please note that this test is for 2001 on ,as they changed rear ratio's after 2001 . . . .
Click to expand...

Do you mean actual 2001 or Manufacture Year 2001 ?

Coz a TD4 built in late 2000 seems to have all stuff relevant to 2001 onwards.

Perhaps it should be from VIN 1A onwards.

Just trying to clear up any further confusion because - as an example that very fact makes handbrake cable selection about £50 different.
 
If yer doing the torque test as per the video, on a manual or auto, it doesn't matter what the gear stick is doing. Rear wheel is easier as the rear of the car is lighter to lift.
 
As far as I know all Td4 cars have the same ird. Like Ming says just regularly check it in reverse full lock to make sure it stays the same. once it tightens, you'll need more revs & know it's time to replace. I'm at 72k & won't worry till I need to.
 
2001 model year onwards it changed. This includes all td4 and v6. Also includes 1.8petrol, from model year 2001 onwards. Thing is peeps forget that the model year starts early. Some 2001 model years are sold in the summer of 2000 onwards, or there abouts. Hence it's best to go by the vin plates.

The ird ratio change happpened when they did loads of changes, to the suspension, brakes, new engines td4 v6 and auto option plus more. If we could work out a simple way for 1.8 petrol owners to look for something that changed, they would be able to spot a 1.8 petrol with the later ird ratio.
 
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