testing vcu

got prop off in vice,
if i put a tyre level in u/j i can turn vcu (fair but of force)
question is which bit is ment to turn?
movement between vcu and u/j behind the skiny bit of vcu

btw i'm new to these hippos never had anything to do with them!
any advice welcome the prop was off when i got it, told it was for mpg?
both bearing are u/s and i suspect the u/j's are too

not this again?
might be a costly (circa £2k) mistake

They won't have been removed to improve MPG - unless the VCU was stuffed in which case you might notice an MPG improvement - but you'd probably have a trashed transmission before the props were removed.

Do a little reading up on Freelander VCU - it won't take you long to find it, on here or a Google search, and you'll realise why the props were removed.

Your only hope if you want to return to 4WD without a lot of expense is that it was removed because the bearings were shagged - that does happen sometimes. Even then, you'll need new bearings and almost definitely a VCU. Don't go cheap - it will cost you a fortune. Go to someone like Bell Engineering.

Your best way to test the VCU is to stick it on the car and do a One Wheel Up Test. I say this because there is data for this test which will tell you if the VCU is OK or not. There's no other test with data. Do not though be tempted to drive the car before testing the VCU.

You may also need a recon IRD and/or rear diff - these are the parts that a bad VCU takes out and can be masked by running 2WD. You may also require new tyres as to go 4WD all 4 road tyres must be the same make/model and be pumped to the same pressure. If they're unevenly worn, the more worn ones go on the front.

So the point of posting was to find out which bit is meant to move!
I have read all the sob stories why the props are removed,
As for the diff and ird I'll replace them if needed but I'm testing to find out what's u/s and what's not.
Why replace if there's nowt wrong.

But thanks for the reply

Knowing which bits suppose to turn ain't going to tell you sweat fanny adams about whether its broke or not. You need to read above for that.

Then you need test the IRD.

One of the ends of the vcu is fixed to the vcu itself. Other end goes inside the vcu and turns. It's this end which turns different the the vcu itself, which is the big cylinder int middle.

It might be OK, if you can turn it at all by hand then it probably isn't tight enough to do harm. I bought my car with the prop shaft in the boot. It was removed by the dealer because the support bearings were shagged.
If you look at the VCU again it'll be obvious which bit turns and which don't cause one end is solid to the casing.

So I put new bearing on, fitted shaft!
Tested on road, no signs of problems
Tight turns forwards and backwards
Bit of a test off road all good
Thanks for the advice,
and to the profit of doom from nz 2k don't think so pmsl

martin1973 said:

So I put new bearing on, fitted shaft!
Tested on road, no signs of problems
Tight turns forwards and backwards
Bit of a test off road all good
Thanks for the advice,
and to the profit of doom from nz 2k don't think so pmsl

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Do the one wheel up test before you declare it good. If the VCU is overly stiff it could trash your drive train and reversing in a tight turn is inconclusive at best.

martin1973 said:

So I put new bearing on, fitted shaft!
Tested on road, no signs of problems
Tight turns forwards and backwards
Bit of a test off road all good
Thanks for the advice,
and to the profit of doom from nz 2k don't think so pmsl

Click to expand...

Well if you have the observational skills to say that the sound advice given to you by the Kiwi mentioned 2K anywhere - good luck keeping your Freelander on the road.

'pmsl' you won't be when it all goes tits up cos you ignore advice.

Alibro said:

Do the one wheel up test before you declare it good. If the VCU is overly stiff it could trash your drive train and reversing in a tight turn is inconclusive at best.

Click to expand...

You are wasting your time Ali. He'll be back asking what to do, when the IRD goes pop.

Edit. It's now sold. The new owner will be on here in a few months then.

All works ok,
Sold it this morning,
On way to collect another tho
Headgasket job on k series piece o pooh

So its definitely Freelander buyers beware in Lincolnshire - there's a pikey proud to be putting plasters on dodgy cars and selling them on. With track record on transmission work - this HG will last about 500 miles - just long enough to be out of sight.

Pikey ha lol been called better names by better idiots,
Done more k series heads than I've had hot dinners never had a problem.
If there's a problem with any vehicle I've sold their more than welcome to bring it back and it'll be repaired.

Thank you again for the help.

martin1973 said:

Pikey ha lol been called better names by better idiots,
Done more k series heads than I've had hot dinners never had a problem.
If there's a problem with any vehicle I've sold their more than welcome to bring it back and it'll be repaired.

Thank you again for the help.

Click to expand...

K series engines are very common so any spanner monkey worth his salt has replaced multiple head gaskets, but Freelander 4WD systems are a different matter. 99.9% of tyres shops and the vast majority of mechanics know nothing about them and cost their owners hundreds of pounds by misunderstanding how the VCU is supposed to operate or just plain ignoring it.
Bolting the propshaft back on without testing the VCU to see if it's too stiff is a classic case in point.