tearing my hair out!!!! almost bought a renaullt

I will check timing again tnx for the advice ! I work down in catterick garrison but ive taken my landy home to glasgow and sorned her. Wish i could bring her to you for a look! Fresh nogging as mines is burst with failed attempts .

Might sound a bit daft... but did ye stick the copper washers fur the injectors in the right way? Another thing ye could check is the glow plugs... mines used tae take a few turns tae start until ah cahanged thum. Ah know thur not really needed on a 200, but ye never know

i think so ! ridge side towards injectors n smooth side towards head!

defender_hank said:

i think so ! ridge side towards injectors n smooth side towards head!

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Aye that's right
just tryin' tae think o' the easiest things furst.... Did ye renew the copper washers on yer leak off / spill pipes? Are the spill pipes the hard plastic yins? If they are, ah've noticed that these can work loose (did on mines anyway) and can draw air in... gie them a wee wiggle tae see

Glow plugs ? are they getting up to temp ?

It does sound an awful lot like air in the fuel. As you work your engine harder, it will draw in more fuel as well as more air if there is a leak. once you throttle back, the pump / injectors will be fed more air and less fuel and it will just die away. That said, it could also be a problem with your injectors but they are starting to seem a lot less likely now. Another possibility is that someone has made a bugger of adjusting your injection pump. If (for whatever reason) they have had the throttle lever removed from the splined throttle shaft and not put it back on correctly, it would give a similar problem to the one you describe because the governor will adjust the fuel down too far to idle. They are very accurately set pieces of equipment! Has anyone touched the maximum fuel screw on the back of your injection pump do you know?

-Tom

Dippypud said:

Glow plugs ? are they getting up to temp ?

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Nah, was thinkin' more along the lines o' the startin' issue

referance the throttle adjustment screw i think its been unscrewed all the way out as its only on the last two threads! how do i reset the screw back to original possition and will the engine need to be ticking over to adjust this?

yes i renewed the copper washers on the leak of pipe and the spill off pipes are new rubber jobs with the woven material around!

ive also tested the glow plugs with wire and battery and they are all glowing away fine .

defender_hank said:

referance the throttle adjustment screw i think its been unscrewed all the way out as its only on the last two threads! how do i reset the screw back to original possition and will the engine need to be ticking over to adjust this?

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Which bit are you talking about when you refer to the throttle adjustment screw?

-Tom

the idle adjustment screw at the back of fuel injection pump!

Do you mean the piece of threaded bar with a lock nut? That goes into the back side of the pump around the fuel return connection that has absolutely nothing to do with your engine idle and that could well be the problem?


Is it the same one that Buster is pointing to in this photo?





Or the one titled 'main fuel screw' in this photo?





-Tom

yes thats the one ! i thought it controlled the fuel air mixture to the engine

defender_hank said:

yes thats the one ! i thought it controlled the fuel air mixture to the engine

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You utter plank!

That is your overall fuel adjustment screw and if it is wound right out, your engine will be getting no fuel.

There is no such thing as fuel air mixture with a diesel injection pump. A diesel engine works on the principal of injecting diesel - and ONLY diesel into the cylinder. The air is drawn into the cylinder before the fuel is injected on the downwards (intake) stroke. Once the piston has got to the bottom of its intake stroke, it begins the compression stroke. The air is compressed and the fuel is injected which then burns giving you your power stroke - engine power!

What you need to do is wind this screw back into the pump but do it very carefully and do it one clockwise turn at a time with the engine off. After every clockwise rotation, try and start the engine but ensure that you remove the turbo pipe between the air intake manifold and the intercooler and have a flat piece of MDF or the likes ready to block the air intake, because if you wind this bolt back in too far, the engine will not stop when you turn off the key and it will continue to accelerate. Do not by any means cover the intake with your hand or it will be sucked into the engine. Generally speaking, if you wind it in a few times until it eventually fires up and runs, you might get away with winding it in another full turn.

That's your problem.
-Tom

i realy hope so tom. i will try it first thing tommorow and will get straight back to you with good news i hope! thanks a milliom for your patience.

defender_hank said:

i realy hope so tom. i will try it first thing tommorow and will get straight back to you with good news i hope! thanks a milliom for your patience.

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So do I! The full fuel adjuster bolt predetermines the fuel injection pump governor position. If it is wound right out, the governor is in such a position that no fuel is passed through the pump. If it is wound in too far, it moves the governor to a position that allows too much fuel to pass through the pump and it "runs away" meaning that it will accelerate until the pump can spin no faster. Either the pump internals will destroy themselves or your engine will blow up. It is very important that you only wind it in one turn at a time. It may take a few turns but after x number of turns, it will fire up and run. What you can do then, is deck the accelerator pedal. If you see no black smoke from your exhaust, wind it in another turn and repeat this until it produces a quick puff of black smoke on full throttle. Go no further with the adjustment at this point, tighten the locknut (if it has one) and leave it be.

Good luck and do get back to us tomorrow!

-Tom

Has thou got anywhere with it then?

sorry to all about not getting back to you with an update. I was posted away for a spell! perks of the job!!!! not i ended up getting a reconned injection pump for 500 bangers as the old pump was tampered with far to much to ever get it back to life. Good news is the new pump worked its like a new engine again thanks to every one who took time to give me advice. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! let it snow let it snow let it snow.

Just a quick point when reversing it feels like there is resistance and a clunking noise ! only when going backwards and it still does it if i roll it back down a hill out of gear. any ideas!!

hhhm one problem to another, after 4 pages i was beginning to wonder if you would ever solve it.

the reversing things, is a new fault to me, my advice would be to check oil in Gbox, and in both axles. i know that noises normally point at the adjustments of the gears in the axle bell housing. perhaps check that the clearances are perfect if the oil idea fails