Disco 3 (LR3) Tdv6 megaflush. Torque converter woes.

Lol
The oil isn’t arriving until nex,t week so I’ve got all weekend to figure it out..

Jonnymoore1970 said:

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John, so the oil comes out of the hose and not the cooler stub? if so I will make a note for next time.

Hiya

Hope this may also help showing direction of flow and return

Tripe wrote:
If you not going to change the filter, I reckon you could do a DIY mega flush.

I purchased 20 litre of Fuchs ATF, it had readable increments on the side to see the volume left in the container,

You could run a length of 1/2" tube from the new atf fluid container to the radiator nipple, and from
The disconnected rubber ATF line connect some 1/2" tubing to an empty 20 litre drum.

Turn the car on and the new oil will be sucked into the cooler, while the old oil is deposited into the waste drum, when the oil changes colour from black to the new atf fluid colour, turn the engine off

Then remove the plug from the side of the transmission and topup with fluid.


Surely this is the easiest and most obvious method.....can anyone tell me why this isn’t the best way to ensure all old old is removed?

gstuart said:

Hiya

Hope this may also help showing direction of flow and return

View attachment 212639 View attachment 212640

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Thanks Gary, one less pipe to connect up next time.

lynall said:

Thanks Gary, one less pipe to connect up next time.

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That definitely helps. The loose top hose into a new drum of oil, and a hose from the rad stub into an empty drum. The question is, will this method suck and push without being a sealed unit? I’m guessing not, will probably need to make sure both drums are air tight. Then start the engine and watch the oil flow. ....am I right?

I d

Jonnymoore1970 said:

That definitely helps. The loose top hose into a new drum of oil, and a hose from the rad stub into an empty drum. The question is, will this method suck and push without being a sealed unit? I’m guessing not, will probably need to make sure both drums are air tight. Then start the engine and watch the oil flow. ....am I right?

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I don't think it will suck at all, the pump pushs the oil along the pipes and back to the gearbox, so it will empty the gearbox as I have done this, but it wont suck it back in.
Tbh using the t/c to pump the box dry, and a manual pump to refill is a pretty quick job.

Many thanks for the advice. Looking forward to getting the oil, so I can have a play.

lynall said:

Thanks Gary, one less pipe to connect up next time.

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ur always welcome buddy

found a picture of the gearboxes oil pump

Yeah, exactly the same type of pump for the engine. I took my old one apart to see how it works.

gstuart said:

Hiya

Hope this may also help showing direction of flow and return

View attachment 212639 View attachment 212640

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I can confirm (because I wore about a litre of oil) that the arrows are back to front......the oil pushes in at the top and out below. Lol

I did write its the top hose,only about 2/3 litres in neurtal the clear but the same agin in reverse and same again in drive, run it through the gears to get all the old oil out , if the oil is old and black surely a new filter? no brainer, as it becomes clogged up it starves the pump
I thourght I was going to be into a new gearbox, so I certainly dont begrudge any effort of a new filter

So here is an update for anyone who’s interested.

I flushed 20 litres of oil through the box and it still never actually ran clear.....although way way cleaner.

I test drove the car and unfortunately no improvement noticed, still revs surging in each gear and a squealing type of noise to accompany the fluctuations.

Today I warmed the car up for around 10 minutes and removed the fill plug, something like a litre of oil spilled out....so was overfilled by myself. (I did originally fill it with the car cold).....then I removed another litre from the drain plug.....the oil was perfectly clean. 2 Dr trannys added and then topped the level up while the engine was running.

The improvement in the test drive was remarkable. Although I am still getting a small squeal and slightly erratic gear change from 4th to 5th, all another gear changes are smooth, with no surging or noises.

I had a feeling that the tc was toast, but I reckon it’s 90% better now....and very drivable. I think I;l keep it and sell my manual one.

Thanks for everyone’s input.

Jonnymoore1970 said:

So here is an update for anyone who’s interested.

I flushed 20 litres of oil through the box and it still never actually ran clear.....although way way cleaner.

I test drove the car and unfortunately no improvement noticed, still revs surging in each gear and a squealing type of noise to accompany the fluctuations.

Today I warmed the car up for around 10 minutes and removed the fill plug, something like a litre of oil spilled out....so was overfilled by myself. (I did originally fill it with the car cold).....then I removed another litre from the drain plug.....the oil was perfectly clean. 2 Dr trannys added and then topped the level up while the engine was running.

The improvement in the test drive was remarkable. Although I am still getting a small squeal and slightly erratic gear change from 4th to 5th, all another gear changes are smooth, with no surging or noises.

I had a feeling that the tc was toast, but I reckon it’s 90% better now....and very drivable. I think I;l keep it and sell my manual one.

Thanks for everyone’s input.

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If you have an IID tool can reset the gearbox adaptations, ie it has to learn it all again, which is handy with the new oil, this also makes a big difference.

Unfortunately I don’t have one.

Jonnymoore1970 said:

Unfortunately I don’t have one.

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Get saving, well worth having.

Not cheap @ 400 quid, but they change hands all the time @ 300 quid 2nd hand, so effectively you only lose 100 quid when you sell it.

Yes, I will get one....once I go back to work and earn a few quid. Lol