Disco 3 (LR3) Tdv6 megaflush. Torque converter woes.

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Jonnymoore1970

Active Member
Posts
105
Location
Wokingham
Guys, I’ve bought a high mileage 2.7 tdv6 and I’d say that either the torque converter or the gearbox oil has expired.

Going through the gears the Revs are surging, and a slight shudder, and also a noise that accompanies it. Then once in 6th gear it will cruise all day with no issues.

I think I’ll take a gamble on a mega flush first and hope that cures it.

Ideally someone can do it mobile near Reading Berkshire. Can you recommend anyone and a price?...or any advise.
Many thanks
 
Hiya

what’s the mileage and Have u had codes read plse

powerflushing can make it a lot worse , I’ve always dropped the ATF oil and then done several oil changes with intervals inbetween, ensuring the correct grade / qty is used, inc refill and level check is done as per ZF specifications

u may end up with a new torque convertor/ gearbox rebuild ?? , but alas won’t really know at this stage until some of the basics have been checked

hope that helps a little
 
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Hiya

what’s the mileage and Have u had codes read plse

powerflushing can make it a lot worse , I’ve always dropped the ATF oil and then done several oil changes with intervals inbetween, ensuring the correct grade / qty is used, inc refill and level check is done as per ZF specifications

u may end up with a new torque convertor/ gearbox rebuild ?? , but alas won’t really know at this stage until some of the basics have been checked

hope that helps a little
Hi
217k
Not plugged it in , only got it yesterday. No errors on dash.
 
Gents, I want to check the gearbox level today. Can I do it with the engine cold? I don’t have a thermometer.

Either will do as a first check, basically if the gbox sump is warm to the touch (not hot) then its near enough to get a decent oil level.

DO NOT go under the car without axle stands, air suspension is real dangerous.

The gboxs can be nursed along for years, even when half shagged.
I change my gbox oil annually (Mannol AG55 10 litre drum ebay) or when it doesnt feel quite right, been like this for 5 years now.
 
Didn’t get to do it today as my local Euro car parts was closed .(£25 for 1 litre!).....went underneath though and I think this is the new style filter?
E0452F4A-88A1-4AE0-A75F-C4C44986BED1.jpeg
 
If the bolt heads are a Torx T40 then it has been serviced..

If they're a T27 chances are the sump/filter/oil is original..

However that filter/sump looks too clean to be that old.

At 217k it should be on its 4th service,. ;)
 
Didn’t get to do it today as my local Euro car parts was closed .(£25 for 1 litre!).....went underneath though and I think this is the new style filter?View attachment 212385


See that little arm? where it pivots on the control cable add a dollop of lube, any old grease will do nicely.

ECP are to bloody dear for anything, mate swore by them, but just recently has started to realise what a rip off they are.
 
Hi, bourght mine 2 weeks ago,mileage 227k, nasty gearbox judder on the way home and an odd sound bit like symbolls? , between 3rd and 4th I think, didnt do it on the test drive.:(

Drained the fluid, very black, mines had the new metal sump and separate filter, replaced the filter and gasket, nothing on the magnets, then forgot to put them back in.
Took off top pipe from cooler, (feed) put a pipe on the cooler and poured a litre of new fluid through , took a while and ended up in the collection bucket.
Re fitted sump and filled 4.5 l of fluid, put top pipe into a jug and started the engine briefly , lots of black fluid squirted out , put the same back in the box, about a litre.
repeated until fluid looked good, then did the same in reverse and then drive, refilling each time.
Hose back on , fill to level warm, pipe back off added sachet of Dr Tranny.
Took on a 200 mile run to the coast yesterday, judder gone :)
Not sure if this was the thing to do, maybe someone will say not to?
cam belts next
 
Hi, bourght mine 2 weeks ago,mileage 227k, nasty gearbox judder on the way home and an odd sound bit like symbolls? , between 3rd and 4th I think, didnt do it on the test drive.:(

Drained the fluid, very black, mines had the new metal sump and separate filter, replaced the filter and gasket, nothing on the magnets, then forgot to put them back in.
Took off top pipe from cooler, (feed) put a pipe on the cooler and poured a litre of new fluid through , took a while and ended up in the collection bucket.
Re fitted sump and filled 4.5 l of fluid, put top pipe into a jug and started the engine briefly , lots of black fluid squirted out , put the same back in the box, about a litre.
repeated until fluid looked good, then did the same in reverse and then drive, refilling each time.
Hose back on , fill to level warm, pipe back off added sachet of Dr Tranny.
Took on a 200 mile run to the coast yesterday, judder gone :)
Not sure if this was the thing to do, maybe someone will say not to?
cam belts next


Easier to pump it all out via the cooler pipe, then replace the exact same amount via the pipe, quick/clean and easy.
Mannol AG55 10 litre drums off ebay.
 
Ive decided to do this myself, i did the cam belts and oil pump etc myself so should be able to do this ......jusyt need clarification on exactly what parts are needed to complete the job. thanlks
 
Lynall...can you clarify what you mean by that exactly....I really want to drain the box completely of all old oil. Any pictures, or clear step by step guide on here?
Thanks
 
Lynall...can you clarify what you mean by that exactly....I really want to drain the box completely of all old oil. Any pictures, or clear step by step guide on here?
Thanks

No pics, basically disconnect top oil cooler hose (cannot remember if oil comes out of hoes or cooler!) connect hose or cooler stub vie a longer hose into a marked container (I use an vac oil extractor just because it has markings for capacity) start engine and watch the oil being pumped out of the gearbox by the torque converter, when oil flow starts to splutter switch off engine, then using an oil pump (I use an oilsafe one) pump fresh oil back down the opposite pipe or stub thet the oil came out of (pump back in the exact same amount) refit hose to cooler run engine until gbox warmish (10 mins at idle) then recheck oil level at the gearbox fill plug.


Last time I did it I was on a hill so could not recheck the oil level afterwards, it has been fine, but next time I will make the effort to check the level.
I change the oil annually or when the geabox stops feeling as smooth as normal.

Edit I think I got 7 litres out, but it was a while ago so cannot be 100 percent, just thought better mention it to make sure you use a large enough container!
 
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This is the post where I learnt to do it, after the first page it seems to ramble on a lot, but all the info you need is on page one.
Guys name is Filo and he demystified the whole gearbox double flush/megs flush that people like to go on about, and all for a lot less money doing it diy.

https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/filos-autobox-oil-change-55010.html?highlight=filo+gearbox+oil
Yeah, seen the thread, just slightly confused. He has two pipes going into the bottle, I’m unsure of where the second one connects to.
 
Yeah, seen the thread, just slightly confused. He has two pipes going into the bottle, I’m unsure of where the second one connects to.

He probably has the same crap memory as me and cannot remember if the oil comes out of the oil cooler itself or the rubber hose that connects to the cooler, so to not make a mess he has connected a hose to the cooler stub AND the rubber hose, and ran them both into his bottle.
 
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