TD5 standard map is it sthle022 sttlp009

It works just that the injector balances are out of page but at this point what's obvious is that the MAF sensor is fubar(unless it's a circuit issue) and if it wasnt cold outside(around 12*C) the MAP sensor's IAT side is dirty or faulty. First of all check fuse F2 engine bay cos it's the live feed for the MAF and if it's good check for voltage in MAF's plug across brown/pink and pink/black wires and if you have voltage you need a new MAF

sierrafery said:

It works just that the injector balances are out of page but at this point what's obvious is that the MAF sensor is fubar(unless it's a circuit issue) and if it wasnt cold outside(around 12*C) the MAP sensor's IAT side is dirty or faulty. First of all check fuse F2 engine bay cos it's the live feed for the MAF and if it's good check for voltage in MAF's plug across brown/pink and pink/black wires and if you have voltage you need a new MAF

Click to expand...

sierrafery said:

It works just that the injector balances are out of page but at this point what's obvious is that the MAF sensor is fubar(unless it's a circuit issue) and if it wasnt cold outside(around 12*C) the MAP sensor's IAT side is dirty or faulty. First of all check fuse F2 engine bay cos it's the live feed for the MAF and if it's good check for voltage in MAF's plug across brown/pink and pink/black wires and if you have voltage you need a new MAF

Click to expand...

sierrafery said:

It works just that the injector balances are out of page but at this point what's obvious is that the MAF sensor is fubar(unless it's a circuit issue) and if it wasnt cold outside(around 12*C) the MAP sensor's IAT side is dirty or faulty. First of all check fuse F2 engine bay cos it's the live feed for the MAF and if it's good check for voltage in MAF's plug across brown/pink and pink/black wires and if you have voltage you need a new MAF

Click to expand...

Thanks for that.
I thought it was strange, I fitted a new MAF recently .
Turns out I inadvertently Zipped you the wrong file...

Attached the "correct" one.
Incidentally, checked the fuse and voltage to the MAF in any case.
Fuse good, voltage 13.6V

BTW EGR deleted on this TD5

If the outside temperature was around 10*C when you took the reading then nothing obviously wrong, if it was warmer clean the MAP sensor then watch again the air inlet temp which should be few degrees higher and if it's lower than outside you need a new MAP sensor

sierrafery said:

If the outside temperature was around 10*C when you took the reading then nothing obviously wrong, if it was warmer clean the MAP sensor then watch again the air inlet temp which should be few degrees higher and if it's lower than outside you need a new MAP sensor

Click to expand...

Outside temperature was about 15 C, Cleaned MAP sensor just before the reading and made sure the pinhole was clear....
I'll get a new MAP sensor on order

Thanks I'll go with that.....
The injector balances make more sense on this reading ?

The injector balances are OK but the IAT was lower that the outside temp while the engine was not completely cold which is not normal, the pinhole in the sensor is for the MAP reading, the protuberance is for IAT

sierrafery said:

The injector balances are OK but the IAT was lower that the outside temp while the engine was not completely cold which is not normal, the pinhole in the sensor is for the MAP reading, the protuberance is for IAT

Click to expand...

Thanks for that.

I'll get a new MAP sensor and go from there.
I'll let you know.....

Any update... Im following this with interest.

tilly2 said:

Any update... Im following this with interest.

Click to expand...

A bit a a delay.......
Firstly the new MAP sensor did not turn up here until last week...??????(Must have gone via the moon, I guess ?? with this freight carnage over the Covid 19................)

Tried that, no change at all..., still got the odd "misfire(ish).
Re-checked the timing (spot on), and re-checked the bump clearance on the injectors (spot on), but still the odd "stumble" ......
Checked all the earth wires, including the ones from the ECU, although I found 1 slightly loose, still not much better..

I can't for some reason record the inputs fuelling at the moment for Sierrafery to squint over, as the Nanocom keeps telling there is communication error with the ECU, and keeps shutting down
prematurely .....

So over to anyone who could shed a light ????

I had all of the above.
I tried all of the above.

Sent the ECU to Gary at Alive, he sent it back problem solved.
Again appears my full map somehow had a 'glitch or spike' who knows maybe muppets at garage shorted something of just ham fisted a diag plug in / static no idea, but either way what ever the case my fuel map file had somehow got corrupted. Big Thanks to @sierrafery who patiently held my hand throughout to identify the ECU I had etc. Anyhoo after doing the full pump, new injectors, man map dip dap dup and juts about every other fooking sensor..... sent the ECU off came back sorted been Schweet ever since, I did a write up at the time, must still be on here somewhere .... good luck buddy we feel your pain all been there!

FFS suck squeeze bang blow ........engines were so much easier before all that electricary came along.....dont trust it .....cant see it..... clever though

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td5-ecu-wiring-pin-out-list-for-red-and-black-plugs.326182/


others
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td5-very-rough-running-and-black-smoke.330209/#post-4259987
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/aap-sensor-and-rough-idle.337186/page-3
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/strange-rough-when-reaching-idle.329713/


hope it helps

might be of use...

KISSMYAURA said:

might be of use...

Click to expand...

Thanks for that, it might be a bit tricky at the moment to send it to Gary at Alive, but I'll contact him, it's just the freight is all over the place at the moment especially to NZ>

I'll let you know.

Many thanks, and yes it was soooo much easier without all the electronic gissimooos !!!

If it's an NNN ECU then simply reflashing the map with nanocom should fix any issue.

That said, I've also had this problem. What fixed it for me was annealing the copper washers before fitting, many of them have sat on shelves forever and harden up. Get them cherry red with a blow lamp, let them air cool, then pickle them in lemon juice to remove the scale that will build up. And make sure you use genuine washers & o-rings, the aftermarket washers are just plain crap.

One last caution, the non AMC landy heads are really weak around the injector pockets, so if you force the injectors back in you can actually crack the pocket and get a similar rough run - worth checking oil level aint rising....

When refitting, just place the injectors in the port and allow the clamp to slowly insert the injector as you tighten it down.

Bennehboy said:

If it's an NNN ECU then simply reflashing the map with nanocom should fix any issue.

That said, I've also had this problem. What fixed it for me was annealing the copper washers before fitting, many of them have sat on shelves forever and harden up. Get them cherry red with a blow lamp, let them air cool, then pickle them in lemon juice to remove the scale that will build up. And make sure you use genuine washers & o-rings, the aftermarket washers are just plain crap.

One last caution, the non AMC landy heads are really weak around the injector pockets, so if you force the injectors back in you can actually crack the pocket and get a similar rough run - worth checking oil level aint rising....

When refitting, just place the injectors in the port and allow the clamp to slowly insert the injector as you tighten it down.

Click to expand...

It has an AMC head, new genuine washers and Oooooh rings, but didn't do the annealing though....

I'm still pretty sure on what Kissmyaura mentioned, as the ECU has been flashed numereous times and still the same...........

Thanks for that though

Ah yeah, I see, the non fuel part could be corrupt, got it. Know anyone else with an EU3 TD5 who'd let you try their ECU (you'll also need to sync to the BCU with nanocom for the immobiliser to not throw a wobbler).

Bennehboy said:

Ah yeah, I see, the non fuel part could be corrupt, got it. Know anyone else with an EU3 TD5 who'd let you try their ECU (you'll also need to sync to the BCU with nanocom for the immobiliser to not throw a wobbler).

Click to expand...

Thanks for that..

However things get more curious as we go along life's highway so to speak.......

On Friday, I did a 890 kilometer trip to pick up a machine on our trailer, which weighed about 2.1 tonnes, and the Landrover had to work on that especially going up hills etc.....

Turns out yesterday, the "murmer" seems to have dissapeared ?!?!?
No idea what's happened, perhaps the fuelcard got a good work out and decided to start "behaving" itself ???
Or..... I am getting paranoid........ ?????

I'll monitor it for a few weeks and report back, but it seems to be very strange indeed