TD5 Performance issues?!

My engine has done 112K miles and I use 10w-40 Castrol GTX Diesel oil with no probs.
Aproximately five years ago I picked up two 200 litre drums of the stuff at a receivers close down auction for £85 so until its all gone it goes in both my TD5 and my Volvo T4.

Having worked all over Africa and seen what they put in their engines (there is a big market in used engine oils which are sold in lemonade bottles at roadside vendors). I've regularly seen diesel or auto trans fluid used as an engine oil in the short term as that was all that was available.

Therefore it is my opinion that some oil in an engine is better than none and often the manufacturers do deals with various oil companies hence they "recommend" specific oil brands at different times. Dont forget that most engines never operate at the extremes of their design so a good general oil is perfectly OK for the majority of users.

The centifuge filter on a TD5 sits just below the exhaust manifold and forward of the turbo. See attached diagram.
You need to remove the two bolts that hold the cover on (10mm from memory) and pull out the rotor.
Clean everything and use a new O ring on the cover which should come with the filter.

The intercooler has to come out with the radiator as there is just not enough room to manipulate them apart without removing the front wings and slam panel. I've wasted hours trying to get them out separately so trust me on this.
The air conditioning radiator will make things even harder but as I took my air conditioning off and sold it on eBay (funnily enough to a guy exporting it to Kenya - see my last post regarding working in Africa) I dont have that problem.

Shifty,

Thanks for clearing things out about oils...

So i will have to take the radiator out to get to the intercooler..

Do all TD5's have the centrifuge filter?? And theres only one fuel filter on the TD5.. rite??

Is it okay to use filters from other brands like BM, britpart, allmakes cooper.. etc?

Thanks.

All Td5's have two oil filters.

1. The centrifuge one, which is to be changed at every oil change (12000 miles)

2. The conventional spin on one, which is located on the right hand side of the engine, under the exhaust manifold. (Which i believe is every 36000 miles)

As for using other brands. Coopers are fine, i'd stay away from Britpart though. But as there not expensive pieces and im saving money doing it myself, i go for original land rover ones.

And yes theres only the one fuel filter under the rear wheel arch.

I always change both oil filters and the fuel filter when I do an oil change every 5000 miles. In my opinion its false economy to wait until the filters are totally clogged or to try and stretch them for the sake of a few quid. I know people who never change an oil filter but are very proud of the fact that they've just put £50 worth of synthetic oil in their engines. I'd rather change the filter and use a cheaper oil.

I wont use Britpart filters but have used Bearmach and Coopers. If you can get original Landrover parts without breaking the bank then I'd suggest you do so.

The intercooler is fixed to the radiator by bolts at the top and sort of hooked brackets at the bottom. As I said there is not enough room to swing the intercooler away from the radiator in order to disengage the bottom brackets so the rad and the intercooler have to come out as one item before you can separate them.

Shifty1962 said:

The MAP sensor is on the inlet manifold. It measures both manifold pressure (from the turbo) and inlet charge temperature. It gets covered in black gunk especially if you still have the EGR system fitted. Undo the two 10mm bolts and carefully pull it from the manifold. It will be held by an O ring which should be changed. You can soak it in petrol to clean it but make sure it is perfectly dry before reinstalling. Replacement is about £25.

If you find a load of gunk in the inlet manifold chances are it will also be in your intercooler hoses and matrix. Give them a flush with petrol and dry before refitting. At the very least disconnect the EGR solenoid connector(s) and consider removing the EGR valve body completely and blanking off the exhaust port.

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Just as a follow-up on this, I was in the dealer today getting some bits and added the MAP sensor O Ring to the list. It's not listed as a part on the Microcat system and comes complete with the sensor which they wanted about £45 for, anyway just don't expect to buy one from LR ltd!

jzcktv said:

Just as a follow-up on this, I was in the dealer today getting some bits and added the MAP sensor O Ring to the list. It's not listed as a part on the Microcat system and comes complete with the sensor which they wanted about £45 for, anyway just don't expect to buy one from LR ltd!

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Get a multi pack of O rings from Halfrauds or the like. Or you can get them by the hundred on eBay if you know the sizes. They cost pennies.

Shifty1962 said:

Get a multi pack of O rings from Halfrauds or the like. Or you can get them by the hundred on eBay if you know the sizes. They cost pennies.

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Yeah I got some, I thought for a quid I'd get the genuine part. I mean they are green and all.

I took my defender to the dealer and got the diagonostic performed. It had registered two faults one was the air flow sensor and the other one ambient temperature sensor...

The air filter was veryyy dirty and torn!! So i got that replaced and cleaned the MAF and then it performed better, the black smoke was gone and idled smoother..

But the guy didnt know what the ambient temp sensor was... he said it was the sensor that gives the outside temperature... but i am pretty sure my defender doesnt have that. That same ambient temperature sensor fault was again registered after gettin it cleared. Would any one know about this?

Cheers!

Ambient air temp sensor is mounted in the piping from the air box to the turbo.
It measures the temperature of the air going in to your engine so that the ECU can adjust fueling accordingly. A bit like operating the choke on a petrol engine.
It is not an ice warning sensor.

The only sensors I have found between the box and the turbo are air mass. But there is another sensor in the box top cover and a small vacum sort of pipe goes there as well... Is that the ambient temp sensor?

Why was it registering fault?? Will cleaning it help cuz cleaning the air mass sensor helped and the fault was gone?? And will I have to get the fault cleared? or will it go away by it self when the sensor is fixed?

Cheers!

Raider td5 said:

The only sensors I have found between the box and the turbo are air mass. But there is another sensor in the box top cover and a small vacum sort of pipe goes there as well... Is that the ambient temp sensor?

Why was it registering fault?? Will cleaning it help cuz cleaning the air mass sensor helped and the fault was gone?? And will I have to get the fault cleared? or will it go away by it self when the sensor is fixed?

Cheers!

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The ambient air temp sensor is mounted on the side of the air filter box next to the heater. I can only assume it is registering a fault because its faulty. I have no idea if you can clean it as I've never taken mine out to have a look. As for clearing the fault, once you fix or change the sensor the ECU should not log any more faults with it. I dont know how you can clear the fault log without the right software.
I have no idea what the "small vacum pipe" is as my motor does not have one. Are you sure its not the turbo wastegate pipe which regulates the boost pressure?

Here you go.
Location of some of the sensors.
Number 11 is the Ambient Air Temp sensor.

Yup shifty #11 is the sensor.. and that vacum pipe is under that sensor on the top cover of the air box.

I never looked what its for but I am sure it has something to do with turbo and boost!

My question was that... the ecu was registering the ambient fault as soon as i got it cleared from the dealer like three times... but he gave me BS cuz he didnt know himself what ambient sensor was.... So now if I replace the sensor would the registered fault clear by it self? or will I have to get it cleared by the T4 diagonostic and pay those bas***ds again to get it cleared?
BTW would you have the part number for this sensor?

Why worry about clearing it?
If the sensor is changed and working so what if the ECU fault log has an old fault in it?
It wont effect the ECU operation as its no longer current.
I have no idea what old fault codes are in my ECU and dont really care so long as its running OK. There are ways of manually resetting the fault codes but I dont know what they are. A search on Google may throw something up.

I'd go back to the dealer and point out the AAP sensor to them. If they could not find it then they aint very good or knowledgable about the TD5 Landrover engine.

As for part number I dont know but any dealer should. Try Google again.

I have about 9 fault codes permanently on disply on my TD5. This is due to picking up faults with parts that I don't have fitted such as abs, egr, air con, etc. Unless performance is being effected I woudn't worry about the code being there.

"My Fault" codes only come on when the wife gets home.

jzcktv said:

"My Fault" codes only come on when the wife gets home.

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my missus used my landy during the snow at the beginning of the year. All she did ws drive it to work. She still managed to break the rear door behind the drivers door though.

ratty said:

my missus used my landy during the snow at the beginning of the year. All she did ws drive it to work. She still managed to break the rear door behind the drivers door though.

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I bet that event came with a "blame code" as well...