TD5 Performance issues?!

Hey guys!

I have a Defender 110 TD5 2001, I some how feel that the car has lost performance over time...

It lacks the torque it used to have, like if i am driving at lower speeds in bigger gears and then i floor it, it now takes ages to catch up. The grunt is gone.. and it used to do 160kms tops and now it does like 130. The engine is in mint shape, always serviced from dealer and on time and this happed in the past 2 months. I mostly used this car for offroading.

What should I get checked? I replaced the oil and filter, fuel filter and air filter; saw some improvement but still its not how it used to be. Are there any other things that need to be changed/adjusted? I have 90K kms on the car. Like valve clearance? or injectors? or something like that?

Please help!
Cheers.

Welcome to the forum :welcome2:

I've heard that simply cleaning the MAP sensor can have large improvements on "lost" power. Do a search on google and you should find how to clean it.

Id also recommend you run a good quality injector cleaner additive through the system.

I ran a bottle of Millers Diesel power stuff through a while a go, and it made a bit of a difference.

adseybear said:

Welcome to the forum :welcome2:

I've heard that simply cleaning the MAP sensor can have large improvements on "lost" power. Do a search on google and you should find how to clean it.

Id also recommend you run a good quality injector cleaner additive through the system.

I ran a bottle of Millers Diesel power stuff through a while a go, and it made a bit of a difference.

Click to expand...

think you'll find its a MAF sensor ie; mass air flow. sensor is engine side of the air filter box

oh and welcome raider.

MAP (Manifold Ambient Pressure) seems to reduce performance when dirty as well though.

Land Rover Owner :: View topic - Cleaning TD5 MAP sensor

The MAF sensor is between the air box and turbo. Most people remove them to give more room to get at the oil filters whilst changing them. They are sensitive items easily damaged, a bit like a light bulb filament it can break when knocked. Easily checked by plugging it in and looking for the filament wire glowing red/orange hot. Dont do this for too long and dont touch the filament because it gets bloody hot! Replacements are about £45.

The MAP sensor is on the inlet manifold. It measures both manifold pressure (from the turbo) and inlet charge temperature. It gets covered in black gunk especially if you still have the EGR system fitted. Undo the two 10mm bolts and carefully pull it from the manifold. It will be held by an O ring which should be changed. You can soak it in petrol to clean it but make sure it is perfectly dry before reinstalling. Replacement is about £25.

If you find a load of gunk in the inlet manifold chances are it will also be in your intercooler hoses and matrix. Give them a flush with petrol and dry before refitting. At the very least disconnect the EGR solenoid connector(s) and consider removing the EGR valve body completely and blanking off the exhaust port.
Lastly, if you have tweeked the turbo wastegate to try and get more power then the ECU will default to generic settings when it senses overboost (more than 1 bar). This can lead to much reduced performance.

Hmmm really must get round to flushing out my intercooler. I think I'm going to put cleaning that MAP sensor on my list for things to do when i service it.

Shifty, do you reccomend just using a bit of petrol for both those jobs?

And as for the EGR. Does simply unplugging it make a difference?? Im under tight guidelines by my insurance company not to modify anything, so removals out of the question, but the solenoid connectors could ummm accidentally disconnect themselves

If you disconnect the solenoid electronic connector(s), early engines like mine only had one solenoid but later engines have two solenoids, then the ECU assumes that the EGR system was never fitted. This is a no cost, fully reversible, option to disabling the EGR system. You will still have the EGR valve body restriction in your inlet tract and it would be worth giving this a thourough clean while you are cleaning the intercooler etc. Large qauntities of dirty exhaust gas being pumped into your engine is not good and in my opinion is counter productive. Many countries dont require the EGR system as they have little or no emmission requirements. My motor passed its MOT with flying colours and the technician even commented on the fact that it was one of the lowest readings he'd seen on the TD5.

With regards to cleaning out the crap just use what ever you've got that will dissolve and flush. Some use paint thinners (not on rubber hoses though), others use parafin or white spirit etc. I used petrol because I had a jerry of stale stuff that was no use in the lawn mower. I fitted a new bigger intercooler as mine was damaged and leaking but I've heard that soaking it overnight in petrol and flushing it gets most of the crap out.

Shifty1962 said:

With regards to cleaning out the crap just use what ever you've got that will dissolve and flush. Some use paint thinners (not on rubber hoses though), others use parafin or white spirit etc. I used petrol because I had a jerry of stale stuff that was no use in the lawn mower. I fitted a new bigger intercooler as mine was damaged and leaking but I've heard that soaking it overnight in petrol and flushing it gets most of the crap out.

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Hi Shifty,
My TD5 has done around 46k miles. Do you think the Intercooler is full of crap yet and flushing it would be worth doing, or should I leave well alone? Performance seems OK but I've only driven mine and only for about 4k miles. The EGR was replaced by the dealer for crap low temp performance issues back in February.

Thanks,
Graham.

Only way to tell is to take the intercooler pipes off and have a look.
If the system is working properly then the intercooler should be clean.

Thanks Shifty, I'll take a look.

Thanks guys!!

Really appreciate the promptness and details.

Few questions.. where exactly are the MAP and MAF sensors positioned on the engine? can some one mark them on a TD5 engine pic?

How do I remove the intercooler? My car has air con, I tried once before but I got confused. Do I have to remove the radiator? or condensor to get to the intercooler?

And how do I clean the EGR?? do I have to take the manifold off to clean the EGR?
I have never fidled with the EGR b4... so disconnecting the egr solonoid makes it go fast or sumthing?

And how many diesel and oil filter does a defender TD5 has? I know that it has a normal looking filter under the turbo but I have read that it also has a centrifugal filter that needs to be changed.... Where is that filter?

The fuel filter is behind the right rear tyre... is there are other??
I serviced the car myself last time, used cooper diesel filter and BM oil filter... are they okay to use? I always go for geniune ones but they were out of stock then.

few more question!

How many glow plugs does a TD5 has? Four or five?

What is an EGR, what does it do? And how does it work? why do ppl block/disconnectit? Is it healthier for the engine to block it? Is blocking it better than just disconnecting it from the solenoids?
My cars vin is 1A620758. Would it have two or one egr solenoid?

Raider td5 said:

few more question!

How many glow plugs does a TD5 has? Four or five?

What is an EGR, what does it do? And how does it work? why do ppl block/disconnectit? Is it healthier for the engine to block it? Is blocking it better than just disconnecting it from the solenoids?
My cars vin is 1A620758. Would it have two or one egr solenoid?

Click to expand...

4

Exhaust gas recirculation - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Seeing as this thread has quite a few people who know Td5 stuff.

What oil do you guys use in it? I've got some Castrol Magnatec 5w30 about to go in, that's fine isn't it? Currently running on Havoline 5w30 Semi, seems to like it.

i'd never buy a TD5, but plenty of peeps who have use the cheapest agricultural tractor oil they can get, change it regularly and swear by it

I have heard of this. Tractor stuff seems to be 15w oil though, which is fine in a tdi which requires 10w oil, but to as the td5 is supposed to have 5w oil, i would think it would be too thick.

have a read of some of CharlesY's posts on this topic

5w/30 is better in temperatures below freezing, and apart from that there's supposed to be a slight economy improvement. I would personally use the oil grade that LR recommend, but I seem to be in the minority on this!

Thats Sean for the info....

TD5 uses 5w oils, I use 5w-50 Mobil 1 fully synthetic and the engine loves it. Well the company says its bad for the engine to use thicker oil, peeps using that oil and swearing by it doesnt matter!! they will prolly regret it one day! And this off topic!

Would any one know how to remove the intercooler? And where does the centrifugal oil filter go on a td5?

Cheers!