Disco 2 Td5 injector seal woes
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brianconwy
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I need to do mine but disconnecting the fuel lines from the fuel pressure regulator looks very awkward. Did you disconnect yours at the regulator itself?
As mine was losing pressure I didn’t bother but I think you can just squeeze the connection on the fuel pipe at the regulator to release the pipe , I’ve since found out it’s wise to suck the fuel out of the first injector (you take out ) cylinder to avoid cylinder lock ..and there’s a procedure to purging the system on a thread on here ..it’s not a difficult task no timing involved just a bugger to start after ..when you undo the wiring connection to the fuel rail injector loom could you have a look to see if there’s supposed to be a seal underneath in the loom plug as mine doesn’t have one and I’m sure it’s missing ..
neilly
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Have you read this?
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Injector Seals.html
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Fpr.html
Cheers
brianconwy
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I have read both articles. I will leave it until weather better. I might remove the fuel cooler for better access.
When I changed my injector loom it had an o-ring already on the new loom.
When I changed my injector loom it had an o-ring already on the new loom.
Turned out the cylinder at the back of the engine was filling up with fuel even though the seals where new it leaked and locked the engine up -so I turned it over by hand and a cup full of diesel shot out lesson learned off to Landrover tomo for new seals and thanks for the link .i watched a vid on YouTube how to do it but they never mentioned fuel falling into no.1 cylinder..the seal I was talking about was the one in the push on connector that goes onto the injector loom , sure it’s rubber one ...cheers
I’ve changed the seals but I’ve still got the same problem that when I turn the ignition off and restart my disco it takes time to build up pressure if I drive off there’s loss of power then after 30 sec it fully powers up the pressure valve had been changed less than 3000k ..the fuel pipe was leaking across the front of the back axel wondering if it’s suck air in here ?
Has anyone had an injector persistently leak at the copper seal ? 3 times I’ve changed it !! Seems to work for an hour or so then won’t start !! It’s number one !! On taking the injector out I noticed it took a bit of negotiating..I’ve only used Bearmach seals as I’ve used b4 with no trouble..was wondering if it was sealed in with locktite ?
1988smithy
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If it's completely clean where the washer sits on the injector and the seat in the head is completely clean and flat and you're 100% it's all seated correctly on reassembly, I'd be thinking cracked head especially if its no1 I think that's where they usually go.
@jamesmartin has had 2 crack I think may be able to help if it took a lot of persuasion to come out in the first place it might've cracked the head. Particularly if the slide hammer tool wasn't used. I've removed them with a tool I made no problems but they all popped out nicely so if you levered it out with something and it aint come up dead straight....
Only use genuine seals and washers, nothing else is worth the aggro so may be worth trying a full set of genuine before you worry too much. Never heard of loctite being used....
Did you get it done at land rover in the end?
@jamesmartin has had 2 crack I think may be able to help if it took a lot of persuasion to come out in the first place it might've cracked the head. Particularly if the slide hammer tool wasn't used. I've removed them with a tool I made no problems but they all popped out nicely so if you levered it out with something and it aint come up dead straight....
Only use genuine seals and washers, nothing else is worth the aggro so may be worth trying a full set of genuine before you worry too much. Never heard of loctite being used....
Did you get it done at land rover in the end?
Discodevon
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Use genuine seals and washers and anneal them too
neilly
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A garage did after saying they don't use them.
I should have said do not do it then, but they wanted to.
Still got a bad leg
neilly
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1988smithy
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Is this always necessary? Only asking as I used genuine but didnt anneal them and its the last thing I did before it developed a cold start problem. Some say anneal them others say not to, do they stay completely flat after cooling down?
neilly
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I did not anneal mine, put them straight in, But then as a quiz,
how do you anneal copper?
Cheers
Trouble standing
1988smithy
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My knowledge only goes as far as heating it (don't know how much) then quenching it or maybe air cooling..? But remember reading somewhere you need to make sure they're kept flat?
Discodevon
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Hi smithy heat them up till there cherry red, and let them cool naturally, this softenens them to assist in sealing... obviously not compulsory though Land Rover don’t mention this in there workshop manual
I’ve rebuilt many engines and once worked on HGV rolls Royce engines so I do all my own work, I’ve done a few injector seal changes and had no problem with this TD5 b4 ..it primes and starts ok after changing the copper washers then after about an hour it starts it’s old tricks again turning over and over till it finally starts then drives fine no missing - pressure seems ok then leave it for 20 min fine - go back out in it turn it off won’t start! Initially it seems cured then like an ex wife comes back to haunt me !! I’m ordering the copper washers from LZ and go from there ..back in ole reliable Mgf with K series engine- rebuilt that asw ..I’ll check for cracks and dirt asw
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