Discovery TD5 10p Running Rough, now won’t start at all

Hello everyone, new to the thread. We have just purchased a 1999 Discovery TD5 10p. Bought as a none runner with a fuel pressure regulator leak, have since fitted a fuel pressure regulator and fired it up, ran rough to begin with and sounded like it was running in 4 cylinders. Previous owner told us he’d changed 2 injectors so we checked them and the codes were different. Coded the injectors and it still ran rough. (Also worth mentioning it wouldn’t fire under its own steam, had to give it some persuasion with easy start).
We then removed the pressure reg and triple checked our work, everything sempt to be spot on, after that tried to fire it up again, now just cranks and doesn’t fire, sometimes coughs as if it wants to fire but I’m thinking that may just be easy start in the intake. We tried bump starting it and it’s a no go what so ever. When it was running it sounded to be chuffing a little bit as if the injector seals were bad so that’s my next guess at changing them, but wondering if this is a common issue with an easy fix? Fuel pump is also working although it is fairly quiet in comparison to my 15p TD5.
Also when changing the injector seals, do you need to set the injectors up afterwards (spring set)?
Any help greatly appreciated, thank you.

I'm very surprised that you have had no reply to your problem?!?
There is usually a reply within a day or 2?
I can't help you, as I have not had any problems in that area yet??
I do sometimes look elsewhere I.e. the Google garage! Or the University of YouTube first! And if nothing found on the above? Will pop into Landyzone and check any older posts??
Ps: if you have not already? Get yourself a Haynes Discovery 2 and the electrical manual!

Kev

As mentioned, plenty of information out there. If you plan on replacing the injector seals, here's a good guide -



I would also check the ECU plugs and injector loom for oil contamination -

Did you manage to pull any error codes with the OBD reader ?

LandyTom99 said:

Hello everyone, new to the thread. We have just purchased a 1999 Discovery TD5 10p. Bought as a none runner with a fuel pressure regulator leak, have since fitted a fuel pressure regulator and fired it up, ran rough to begin with and sounded like it was running in 4 cylinders. Previous owner told us he’d changed 2 injectors so we checked them and the codes were different. Coded the injectors and it still ran rough. (Also worth mentioning it wouldn’t fire under its own steam, had to give it some persuasion with easy start).
We then removed the pressure reg and triple checked our work, everything sempt to be spot on, after that tried to fire it up again, now just cranks and doesn’t fire, sometimes coughs as if it wants to fire but I’m thinking that may just be easy start in the intake. We tried bump starting it and it’s a no go what so ever. When it was running it sounded to be chuffing a little bit as if the injector seals were bad so that’s my next guess at changing them, but wondering if this is a common issue with an easy fix? Fuel pump is also working although it is fairly quiet in comparison to my 15p TD5.
Also when changing the injector seals, do you need to set the injectors up afterwards (spring set)?
Any help greatly appreciated, thank you.

Click to expand...

Before you do all that replace the mass air flow unit, not with a cheap nasty one either and i think you might be surprised

Before you do the above, simply unplug it. If it then runs you will save yourself the cost of replacing an otherwise good MAF for no good reason. If it still doesn't start, leave it unplugged, it is a minor matter you can sort out if neccesary much later on.
It'll run fine without the MAF the ECU is set up to do just that in the case of MAF failure.

davidwatson said:

Before you do all that replace the mass air flow unit, not with a cheap nasty one either and i think you might be surprised

Click to expand...

Stanleysteamer said:

Before you do the above, simply unplug it. If it then runs you will save yourself the cost of replacing an otherwise good MAF for no good reason. If it still doesn't start, leave it unplugged, it is a minor matter you can sort out if neccesary much later on.
It'll run fine without the MAF the ECU is set up to do just that in the case of MAF failure.

Click to expand...

Even though this discussion might not help the OP who wasnt here since april it seems that you both missed the 10P thing in the title or you dont know that on these engines the MAF is only for EGR management and can't cause the symptoms described, remember that the MAF can be an issue only for 15+P engines

sierrafery said:

Even though this discussion might not help the OP who wasnt here since april it seems that you both missed the 10P thing in the title or you dont know that on these engines the MAF is only for EGR management and can't cause the symptoms described, remember that the MAF can be an issue only for 15+P engines

Click to expand...

Er no @sierrafery I didn't miss it which is why I posted what I did