td5 heater problems

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sierrafery said:
By cold > pull out and lift the tank as much as u can, take cap off, remove the bleed screw, poor coolant(if necessary) untill a clean flow comes out, put tank back, put partially back the bleed screw as to let coolant come out, start engine, rev it above 1500 and and wait untill no bubbles are coming out...top up coolant if neccesary.... u can partially undo the bleed screw after a while when it's hot(u dont have to rev it then).. and wait untill no bubbles are coming, top up coolant if necessary. Tighten well the tank's cap.
Click to expand...

Okay Thanks.
I,ll try all of this today.:doh::doh::doh::doh:
 
Splasher said:
Okay Thanks.
I,ll try all of this today.:doh::doh::doh::doh:
Click to expand...


I give up!!!
Have bled it and bled it and bled it!!! Still its pressurising and the rad is cold...
Give up and gonna sell it i think. Thanks for all the advice..
:frusty::frusty::frusty::frusty::frusty::doh::doh::doh::doh::doh::doh:
 
SPLASHER If the top hose is hot, you are sure the water pump and thermostat are good, but the radiator is cold this suggests a blocked radiator. Just running a hose through the rad will not necessarily clear any blockage as you may only clear one or two of the fin tubes so water will appear clear. Ideally you need to power flush in both directions more than a few times and even then you will not clear a badly blocked radiator.

With what you've already spent for the sake of a few quid more I'd fit a new rad or get the old one recored. My new rad cost £70 two years ago.

You could try running with some kettle descaler in the coolant but only do that for a day or two before flushing the system. It may clear any blockage. Only use the recommended amount and dont be tempted to increase the dosage as the descaler will start to eat the aluminium parts.
 
Shifty1962 said:
SPLASHER If the top hose is hot, you are sure the water pump and thermostat are good, but the radiator is cold this suggests a blocked radiator. Just running a hose through the rad will not necessarily clear any blockage as you may only clear one or two of the fin tubes so water will appear clear. Ideally you need to power flush in both directions more than a few times and even then you will not clear a badly blocked radiator.

With what you've already spent for the sake of a few quid more I'd fit a new rad or get the old one recored. My new rad cost £70 two years ago.

You could try running with some kettle descaler in the coolant but only do that for a day or two before flushing the system. It may clear any blockage. Only use the recommended amount and dont be tempted to increase the dosage as the descaler will start to eat the aluminium parts.
Click to expand...

Okay, i,ll try all of that but i have power flushed the rad both ways and no blockage was evident.
Cannot get rad recored as it has the plastic end caps. So it would have to be a new one.
Thanks for the advice.:)
 
Well i think its pretty much a fact that my head gasket has failed.
I,ve changed out the thermostat, water pump,expansion tank cap, flushed the radiator and bled it so many times and still it keeps pressurising.
So next week the head comes off and i,ll fit new head gasket.
:frusty::frusty::frusty::frusty::frusty::frusty::frusty::frusty::frusty:
 
This is starting to any now.
Had injector done all going well now it's started to drop water from the pump which was only done in August.garage want £40+vat for pump which is re-embursed if the one they take off is faulty and £140 to remove and replace the pump.
Been told its a bit awkward to DIY as the turbo has to come off ???
 
Hi all,
Had sniffer test done and it is NOT the head gasket, so it has to be a blocked rad or heater matrix, or both.:rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
Well,
After weeks of messing around changing thermostat, water pump,and constantly bleeding the water system, and a sniffer test, i have to accept the fact that the head gasket has failed so tomorrow(Friday) the head comes off.
I have seen conflicting evidence with regards to skimming the head.
Some say do not skim, others do.
Can any one advise on this PLEASE.
Thanks..:confused::confused::confused::confused:
 
Splasher said:
Well,
After weeks of messing around changing thermostat, water pump,and constantly bleeding the water system, and a sniffer test, i have to accept the fact that the head gasket has failed so tomorrow(Friday) the head comes off.
I have seen conflicting evidence with regards to skimming the head.
Some say do not skim, others do.
Can any one advise on this PLEASE.
Thanks..:confused::confused::confused::confused:
Click to expand...

So say skimming the head removes the specially hardened layer which is why people say that you can't skim them. I, along with many others, have had my head skimmed and had no problems since. Mine was skimmed 3 years ago and is still going strong. If you don't get it skimmed and re-fit it the chances are you will have problems due to warpage. If you really don't want yur head skimmed the only other option is to get a replacement head at about £1200.
 
ratty said:
So say skimming the head removes the specially hardened layer which is why people say that you can't skim them. I, along with many others, have had my head skimmed and had no problems since. Mine was skimmed 3 years ago and is still going strong. If you don't get it skimmed and re-fit it the chances are you will have problems due to warpage. If you really don't want yur head skimmed the only other option is to get a replacement head at about £1200.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info/advice...
Skimmed it is then.
:):):)
 
Well,
Have spent all day fitting new injector seals to my td5 and now it will not start..At all..:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
 
Splasher said:
Well,
Have spent all day fitting new injector seals to my td5 and now it will not start..At all..:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
Click to expand...

Shifty1962 said:
Did you / have you bled the fuel system? Remembered to reconnect the injector harness plugs? Simple things but often overlooked.
Click to expand...

What shifty said ^^^^^^^.

Funnily enough I fitted new injector seals and a new injector harness to mine today. I gave it 3 purge cycles on the fuel pup and then it still took about 15 seconds with the accelerator fully decked before it started.

As yet it hasn't cut out on me so fingers crossed it has cured the problem:cool:
 
ratty said:
What shifty said ^^^^^^^.

Funnily enough I fitted new injector seals and a new injector harness to mine today. I gave it 3 purge cycles on the fuel pup and then it still took about 15 seconds with the accelerator fully decked before it started.

As yet it hasn't cut out on me so fingers crossed it has cured the problem:cool:
Click to expand...
Gave mine 6 purges, and towed it for 2 miles and still nothing.
I,m thinking that the ecu may need resetting as i did not disconnect the fuel lines or the battery...:confused::confused::confused::confused:
If all else fails i,ll sell/break it for spares..
 
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