Td4..non starter

On my V6 the connection between the solenoid and the motor is internal so the only place you could put power on, is to the input of the solenoid. Is the TD4 the same or has it got a cable from the solenoid to a terminal on the starter motor ? If it has you could try puting power straight to the motor and bypass the solenoid just to test it.

ianda12 said:

On my V6 the connection between the solenoid and the motor is internal so the only place you could put power on, is to the input of the solenoid. Is the TD4 the same or has it got a cable from the solenoid to a terminal on the starter motor ? If it has you could try puting power straight to the motor and bypass the solenoid just to test it.

Click to expand...

Td4 is the same, you would have to open the solenoid.

I've ordered a new starter motor today, should be here monday/tuesday.

So fingers crossed we'll see what happens. Best case it starts, worst case it doesn't but i least i'll know the starter is good.

Thanks for help and advice so far

New starter has only just arrived, thought it would have been here this morning.

Not working tomorrow. so i'll be putting it in first thing no matter what the weather is and see what happens.

I double checked all cables and connections again today.

New starter motor now fitted, tried to jump start same problem

I've been pulling my hair out trying ti figure out what the problem , to no avail.

I started reading through the rave cd and found this:

The selector and inhibitor switch is located on the selector shaft on top of the gearbox and connected to the main
harness by a 10 pin connector (C0244).
While the ignition is on, the selector and inhibitor switch receives a battery voltage power feed from the main relay. In
some markets, in order to illuminate the LED module whenever the key is in the ignition switch, the selector and
inhibitor switch also receives a battery voltage power feed from an illumination relay installed behind the centre
console.
Where fitted, operation of the illumination relay is controlled by the passive coil on the ignition switch. When the key
is installed in the ignition switch the illumination relay energises to connect the power feed to the selector and inhibitor
switch. When the main relay is energised by the ECM, the illumination relay de-energises and the power feed to the
selector and inhibitor switch is taken from the main relay.
The EAT ECU and the LED module are provided with a voltage output from the selector and inhibitor switch that
corresponds with the gear position the driver has selected. Seven sets of contacts in the selector and inhibitor switch
which are operated by the selector shaft. Each set of contacts corresponds to one of the seven selector lever positions
(PRND421). Only one set of contacts will supply battery voltage to the EAT ECU and the LED module at any one time.
The EAT ECU monitors the switch outputs every 10 ms.
A pair of contacts are provided for the crank inhibit circuit. The contacts are only closed when the selector lever is in
the 'P' and 'N' positions.
The two contacts are wired in series with the EWS3D immobilisation ECU. When the selector lever is in any position
other than 'P' or 'N', the feed from the ignition switch to the immobilisation ECU is broken by the open contacts,
preventing starter motor operation.

In the event of a selector and inhibitor switch signal failure, any of the following symptoms may be observed:

l Upshift to 5th gear inoperative
l Torque converter lock-up inoperative
l Torque reduction request from the EAT ECU to the ECM inoperative
l Cranking disabled if fault is on the two inhibitor switch contacts.

Going by everything else i've tried and tested, could this be my problem?

Now you got a new starter - does it crank wiv the temporary +12v direct to the small terminal on the starter?
If yes then you trace back to where the 12v is diappearing between the starter and the starting relay then the ignition switch to the relay - could be the gearshift switch in the feed to the relay if you have an auto?

Try the direct 12v again first, if that cranks work back from there.

Didn't see what your FL is - the attached is for Facelift K1.8 - may help locate parts?

Its a td4 auto.


I just went out to get the rear window back up for the night, hooked it up to the merc and it started !!!!

Don't know WTF is going on but it is actually running as i type.
So my problem must be the inhibitor switch

Cranking disabled if fault is on the two inhibitor switch contacts.

Also the engine managment light is staying lit, do i need to recalibrate anything since the battery has been flat for a week or so.Wasn't an issue before the non starting problem.

I know I'm repeating myself but when you previously tested the original starter with jump leads and with a wire from the lucar connector to the battery positive it turned.

So when the starter is fitted to the car it has a permanent and direct positive supply from the battery and a permanent earth via the engine earth connection from the battery. Therefore this is the same simple circuit that you improvised using jump leads with the starter removed.

Putting a wire from the lucar to the battery pos should energise the solenoid and turn the starter.

Testing in this way bypasses any immobiliser or inhibitor switch.

I mentioned in jest about the engine being seized but you should check it turns from the crank pulley or turn the starter ring when starter is removed. You sure you have enough antifreeze? it's not frozen coolant is it?

Chaser said:

I know I'm repeating myself but when you previously tested the original starter with jump leads and with a wire from the lucar connector to the battery positive it turned.

So when the starter is fitted to the car it has a permanent and direct positive supply from the battery and a permanent earth via the engine earth connection from the battery. Therefore this is the same simple circuit that you improvised using jump leads with the starter removed.

Putting a wire from the lucar to the battery pos should energise the solenoid and turn the starter.

Testing in this way bypasses any immobiliser or inhibitor switch.

I mentioned in jest about the engine being seized but you should check it turns from the crank pulley or turn the starter ring when starter is removed. You sure you have enough antifreeze? it's not frozen coolant is it?

Click to expand...

I've fitted a new starter, not tried the test with the new one but iwill if it helps diagnose.

Engine not siezed or coolant frozen

This other battery you tried to start it with, is it a similar capacity battery from a diesel?

Chaser said:

This other battery you tried to start it with, is it a similar capacity battery from a diesel?

Click to expand...

If you mean the one last week of my merc, it's bigger 950cca. Its the same one i've been jumping off all the time.

So you don't think it's the inhibitor switch Chaser

It's been running for a while turned it off for 10m, tried again and it started straight away.The EML light is still on though.

Hang on I've missed a post here, the one at 18.27.......

For the moment i'd ignore the eml and charge the battery. Cold weather and low volts could be causing the light.

Chaser said:

Hang on I've missed a post here, the one at 18.27.......

For the moment i'd ignore the eml and charge the battery. Cold weather and low volts could be causing the light.

Click to expand...

Thought you mignt had missed something judging by the question.

I've just turned it off will take for a good run tomorrow, if it starts in the morning that is.

Do you think it would be a good idea to take it to a good "indy" and get it checked on testbook

Seven pages before he mentions its an Auto!!!!
The inhibitor switches on the gearbox wont let any power get to the starter if its not in park or neutral, so you don't get any clicking from the starter if they are faulty.

ianda12 said:

Seven pages before he mentions its an Auto!!!!
The inhibitor switches on the gearbox wont let any power get to the starter if its not in park or neutral, so you don't get any clicking from the starter if they are faulty.

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that doesn't really help, i've always tried it in park

on my 3rd freelander now and i have had this happen on 2 of them ........new ignition barrel needed ......well the black box on the back anyways ..the dimples on thebrass conection plates wear down and dont make a strong contact anymore ......it sometimes works and sometimes dont because the contacts are loose with worn dimples and intermittantly make contact ...think it was about 40 quid last time i bought one ..

pardec said:

Thought you mignt had missed something judging by the question.



I've just turned it off will take for a good run tomorrow, if it starts in the morning that is.



Do you think it would be a good idea to take it to a good "indy" and get it checked on testbook

Click to expand...

In the past week have been asked about 2 different Td4s that have flagged up warning light after a cold start and both cleared on their own the next day without storing any codes. So yours could be a 3rd. I can't really explain why so just waiting to see if they return.

**update**

Freebie started fine this morning right on the key, just like it usually did. Took it out for a drive for over an hour and the EML has now gone out, think i need a gearbox oil change though (change is a bit lumpy).

I've still got the intermitent starting problem, seems to happen when it's really cold. It happend in January/Febuary when we had all that snow. I think it's the inhibiter switch on the gearbox. Is there any of checking if it is or not or a way to bypass it?

Would it be a good idea to take it to an independent and get it on the computer, would this type of fault show up?

Thank you to everybody for all there help and advice so far