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Td4 Lack of power at 70mph - fixed !

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by Kungfu0210, May 6, 2009.

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  1. vincentf

    vincentf New Member

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    I also have a lack of power at 70 but discovered this evening if I
    switch off the engine and switch it back on again I regain power for a minute or 2 and then lose it again
    could this be a fuel problem ie pump not starting or ECU problem
    when I switch on the ignition the pump runs for a long time before stopping maybe 1 min or min and half
    any idea what is causing the problem
     
  2. The Mad Hat Man

    The Mad Hat Man Well-Known Member LZIR Despatch Agent

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    low pump pressure - fuel starvation.
     
  3. OldIrishWulf

    OldIrishWulf Well-Known Member

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    I have not read through the whole thread but it seems the answer might be contained within.
     
  4. caravanchris

    caravanchris New Member

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    hi guys new on here thanks for this info it fixed my power problem on my td4 es prem last weekend she flys again now .:D
     
  5. willo

    willo Well-Known Member

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    And which one of the proposed solutions did the trick with yours ???
     
  6. bob hill

    bob hill New Member

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    I also experience a lack of power on my TD4 although tickover was very smooth. The lack of power symptoms developed gradually getting worse over a period of about two months. Eventually I worked out that the turbo was not functioning as it should.

    Useing a vacuem pump connected directly to the actuator I tested the turbo waste gate. This operated OK I then removed and tested the solenoid operated vacuem switch. This was OK. I then tested the vacuem pipe from the vacuem accumulator and found that it would not hold a vacuem.

    This pipe was replaced with a new vacuem line for about £5. The engine ran fine, back to normal power. The original pipe ruins round the cylinder head to cam cover joint where it is subject to heat and oil which in my case had caused it to perish. I bought a longer piece than the original and ran it round the back of the engine compartment so that I could easily check it in future.

    I think with any problem in the trurbo the vacuem system from the engine run vacuem pump and the vacuem pipes which go to the ERG and the turbo waste gate need to be checked for leaks before going on to the more expensive bits!
     
  7. stalkead

    stalkead New Member

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    Hi - Very similar symptoms to what I have experienced today, mine was also accompanied by yellow dashboard warning light....(engine symbol with exclamation mark). Did you have the same? I have 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 HSE.
    I consulted owners handbook, I am a Brit living in Norway, and the handbook is in Swedish and Finish....I think it mentions something about emission levels from the motor...any ideas ?? or an English version ??

    Thanks
     
  8. southendstrett

    southendstrett New Member

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    Just a quick update, I never really cured my fault with the 70mph thing, but recently it has been a right bugger to start. Took it to a 'real' Landy mechanic this time, and he replaced 2 injectors and a breather. Car is as good as new now with no lag top end.:D
    Now very skint but very pleased.
     
  9. HUGH JAMPTON

    HUGH JAMPTON New Member

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    A big THANKYOU to the OP. :)
    New solenoid fixed mine. 20 minute job.

    Price has gone up though. Cheapest I could find (Inc delivery and VAT) was only about a fiver less than an original LR part. Guy Salmon, Knutsford £58 !! :Cry:

    Thanks again Kungfu0210
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2011
  10. Stallard

    Stallard New Member

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    I have tested this solenoid and it seams to be ok. The is vacume when I pull pipe on off.. Disconnected the MAF and this did seam to cure it but I did have loads of black smoke out the back end.. Have orders one of eBay for £23. Also had oil orpine the filler cap, so I've ordered a new breather filter.. Still wondering if it is the MAF or something else. Any help grately appreciated..
     
  11. Stallard

    Stallard New Member

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    Sorry on my iPhone and this pradictive text getting on my txxs
     
  12. freeladdy

    freeladdy New Member

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    I had a similar problem after a recent drive to Morecambe last weekend.Travelling back up the M6 I felt a bit of a chug, as if the fuel was not going through, then it would be ok again.Found it hard to get to 3000 rpm and it felt as flat as a fart.It gradually became worse this week, and we struggled yesterday.Black smoke came out of the exhaust when I pressed the accelerator.So armed with the info on this thread, and the Haynes manual my hubby bought me for Xmas, this morning I set too, to see what I could find. What I was looking for was..

    1.Holes in rubber pipes
    2.Boost solenoid
    3.Little filter at the back of the engine
    4.Maf sensor


    Found this.........a split hose, intercooler to manifold Britpart No PNH000020, we are lucky in having Teesdalelandrover.co.uk just a couple of miles from us, and he had one in stock,........£12.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Fitted the new one and could see the old one was also rubbing on part of the engine, so..........

    [​IMG]


    Made a little collar from the old one to give a little more protect and tiewrapped it on.....


    [​IMG]


    Chuffed to bits with myself,.......thanks for all the info here.Don't ever be afraid to post however menial, cos us newies need all the info poss.
     
    Swann36 likes this.
  13. tonyt37

    tonyt37 Active Member

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    Hi all
    i have been havingsimilar problems to some of those listed. Mine is a 55 td4 3dr. I was leaving Edinburgh yesterday on the start of a 250 mile trip, put my foot down,engine revved to 3000 ish rpm and then nothing:eek:. No warning lights or smoke or funny noises, just no power to go above 3250 rpm when acelerating. Tried disonecting solenoid pipe this morning but didn't seem to do anything. If i rev it, it gets to 3750 and no more and splutters a bit with emissions light flickering ocasionally. Could this be a fuel delivery problem?
    Any thoughts appreciated.
     
  14. Singvogel

    Singvogel Well-Known Member

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    The usual thoughts:

    Air Filter
    Fuel Filter
    pcv
    EGR
    Turbo Hoses

    or a combination! :) :cool:
     
  15. tonyt37

    tonyt37 Active Member

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    None of the above either. Called in a favour and took it to a mates garage. Fault code reader identified fuel pressure fault. Replaced in line pump under wheelarch and bingo - good as new. Allthe symtoms pointed to turbo solenoid but i'm glad i didn't just dive in and change it.
    Beware! Thingsmay not be as they seem!
     
  16. Singvogel

    Singvogel Well-Known Member

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    Hi,

    I'm glad your on the road again.

    The reason I didn't include the pump itself on my list was because it was working.

    If the pump doesn't actually pump then the engine won't start at all.

    Perhaps it was not working at full power?

    I hope your mate changed the filter too.

    Regards, S. :cool:
     
  17. Stallard

    Stallard New Member

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    We'll I still have my problem with lack of power. Changed the MAF sensor and turbo solenoid filter. Did fit a vacume leak sorted that. Also changed the cam breather filter. Have orderd a EGR bypass. Apart from that I am at a loss. Any suggestions very much appreciated. Any using a lot more fuel not sure if this helps..
     
  18. Stallard

    Stallard New Member

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    Wonder if it's the fuel pump not at full power? All this started from when the battery went flat and I jump started the car...?
     
  19. springer1

    springer1 New Member

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    Having same problem, tried pulling vac pipe off turbo with no change. I can't understand how pulling this pipe off, would show a duff solenoid. Surely disconnecting gives the same result as being connected to a solenoid which isn't working. Ordered new solenoid will renew vac pipes. Hope that works, now doing it at slower speeds on any hill with MIL showing.
     
  20. Stallard

    Stallard New Member

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    Hi Springer1. Is there vac all the time when you pull the pipe off. Checked it at 790rpm and there was a slight vacum, and the same at 2500rpm. so i,m not sure if this means it is u/s or not. I also drove with the vac pipe off and it made no difference. Think i'll get a new one anyway. any other suggestions?
     
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