TD4 drive shaft wobble

Hi all,
I have a Freelander TD4 2002 manual with a vibration going through the car, after changing the clutch, viscous coupling, propshaft bearings lower tie bar, both wish bone arms, track rod ends, wheel bearings, anti-roll bar mounts, brake disc and pads, anti-roll bar drop links, axle mounts, all drive shafts and 4 new tyres, i still have a vibration on acceleration?
I found the left hand drive shaft (gearbox side) has some play in it where it goes into the gearbox (up and down play) my question is can you change the output shaft bearing without removing the gearbox? cant seem to find out how you remove it?

I have had this issue with aftermarket drive shafts.

If its more like a wobble than a vibration it could be the same, some times via the gear stick.

Why not get some used shafts off eBay and try them?

Or get original / gkn shafts.

I also say that there is always a bit of movement even in good shafts in my experience - I just had to change one today in fact!

roccotune said:

I have had this issue with aftermarket drive shafts.

If its more like a wobble than a vibration it could be the same, some times via the gear stick.

Why not get some used shafts off eBay and try them?

Or get original / gkn shafts.

I also say that there is always a bit of movement even in good shafts in my experience - I just had to change one today in fact!

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Thanks roccotune,
I've tried 3 different drive shafts, not original or GKN though?
i was just trying to find out how the bearings come out, gearbox off or pulled out of the side? No one seems to know! you could say its a vibration through the car.

Can't tell you about the gear box but if they are like the carrier bearings on the rear diff then you should be able to pull them out with the gearbox left in place.

Does it wobble the gear stick and seems worse at a specific revs? Is it just when accelerating as these symptoms fit drive shafts well.

Im not sure on bearings but if you google for rave disc you should find the rover manual software and I know I have seen it in there.

Good luck mate I know how bad it can be, im so glad mine is sorted!

Also which brands have you tried?

roccotune said:

Also which brands have you tried?

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JandR drive shafts and Bearmach

sorry to interupt, but been there with problem did all the same and it turned out to be a mounting on the rear sub frame,

turns out common on that model.
hope this helps. sorry again

hando said:

sorry to interupt, but been there with problem did all the same and it turned out to be a mounting on the rear sub frame,

turns out common on that model.
hope this helps. sorry again

Click to expand...

Hi is that where the chassis cracks under the rear subframe? if so i have also welded that, the vibration/wobble is also there when i remove the propshaft?

hando said:

sorry to interupt, but been there with problem did all the same and it turned out to be a mounting on the rear sub frame,

turns out common on that model.
hope this helps. sorry again

Click to expand...

Also I have replaced all the diff mountings!

Is the wobble that bad that it needs fixed, or can you wait until it gets worse and it will be easier to detect.

Hippo said:

Is the wobble that bad that it needs fixed, or can you wait until it gets worse and it will be easier to detect.

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Well it's bearable at the moment. If it gets any worse then like you say it should be easier to detect.

I've got a J&R shaft in my garage - it was fitted by a local garage for me (I purchased the shaft myself, thought I had a CV joint grumbling - it wasn't, that's another story). I had to get them to remove it 2 days later, due to a 'wobble' which could be felt through the car. To their credit J&R have agreed to refund me (when I can get the shaft back to them) - a little bit of digging on t'internet comes back with the information that aftermarket shafts are not exact replicas of LandRover shafts - something about nylon buttons not being fitted ??

Jonty1 said:

I've got a J&R shaft in my garage - it was fitted by a local garage for me (I purchased the shaft myself, thought I had a CV joint grumbling - it wasn't, that's another story). I had to get them to remove it 2 days later, due to a 'wobble' which could be felt through the car. To their credit J&R have agreed to refund me (when I can get the shaft back to them) - a little bit of digging on t'internet comes back with the information that aftermarket shafts are not exact replicas of LandRover shafts - something about nylon buttons not being fitted ??

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Thanks, I wonder if I can send my back only had it 2 months. Have to give them a ring I think.

Ok update! I've just purchase a OEM GKN drive shaft, I will be fitting it Saturday and I'll update on if its cured the vibration? Fingers crossed

Apparently the front uj on the prop shaft where it connects to the ird can cause a wobble/vibration......there was a thread on it a week or so ago.

This one http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/transmission-help-223790-post2549346.html#post2549346
Not exactly the same symptoms you have.

But another thread Austen from bell does suggest the drive shaft your replacing is normally the reason.

mjrimmer said:

Apparently the front uj on the prop shaft where it connects to the ird can cause a wobble/vibration......there was a thread on it a week or so ago.

This one Freelander 1 Transmission help - Page 2 - Land Rover Zone
Not exactly the same symptoms you have.

But another thread Austen from bell does suggest the drive shaft your replacing is normally the reason.

Click to expand...

This isn't unique to Freelanders. It's common on lots of Rover models, especially the 1.8 and and v6 powered cars. And Freelanders running in FWD mode. I think it has something to do with the lower engine tie bar bush going soft, this allows to much fore and aft movement at the gearbox output shaft. I believe this causes unusual wear of the inboard Tripod joint. This wear causes the joint to stiffen up under torque producing the vibration.

Update!! Changed driveshaft and vibration is still there but 10 times better now, took it to my mates garage and he confirmed the output shaft bearings have to much play in them, possibly caused by the after market shafts? So only a little vibration now. Tip of the day. When you replace the gearbox drain plug don't over tighten it and strip the threads, if you do you will find it makes you swear a lot. Lol. I had to drill out and tap a new thread, not great fun!

Took the Gaylander out today and no vibration at all, looks like it was the after market driveshafts. The OEM driveshaft seemed much better quality and the drive is unbelievably much smoother. They might cost more but worth the money. I got the OEM GKN type from Bearmach for £240

I have just had mine diagnosed with the same,
I need both arms left and right, I knew there was a problem
for a little while, but I have finally got through the other fix me now
list and am ready to tackle this now,,

I was quoted £156 a side and £143 to fit,
Total £455, so I was looking for a cheaper option..

Where did you get the OEM GKN type from Bearmach for £240,
I cant find them on-line, to purchase, do you need to phone or something??

I take it these are a no then from your previous conversation??

LAND ROVER FREELANDER 2.0 TD4 DRIVESHAFT NEAR/SIDE (BRAND NEW) 2001 2006 | eBay
LAND ROVER FREELANDER 2.0 TD4 DRIVESHAFT OFF/SIDE (BRAND NEW) 2001 2006 | eBay