Td4 chip -worth doing?

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duncanpage4

duncanpage4

Active Member
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East Sussex
I've read a few comments on here about getting the Td4 chipped with a Synergy tuning box, is it really worth doing?
Are the power/fuel saving gains noticeable?
Can anyone who has had this fitted give accurate or even realistic estimated bhp & torque figures?
Are any if the other cheaper tuning boxes worth looking at?
 
duncanpage4 said:
I've read a few comments on here about getting the Td4 chipped with a Synergy tuning box, is it really worth doing?
Are the power/fuel saving gains noticeable?
Can anyone who has had this fitted give accurate or even realistic estimated bhp & torque figures?
Are any if the other cheaper tuning boxes worth looking at?
Click to expand...

Yes, its well worth doing. I put one in my TD4 that had around 95,000 on the clock and the transformation is amazing. However, I did do the full MAF/RonBox install so I expect changing the MAF had a lot to do with it anyway. I've not done any scientific measurements with it, but I have more BHP. Easy to do.
 
Synergy is brilliant. Apart from having the options to change performance to suit your preferences at the turn of a switch, it has the added advantage that it can easily be removed and sold or fitted to the same model of car.
EGR bypass or cleaning together with PCV cleaning or preferably an update to the BMW cyclone type is a must to get the best advantage of the system.
The engine is certainly more responsive and this is noticeable on even the lowest settings.
I fitted mine, together with a Pierburg MAF a few months ago.
 
I used to have one of these "boxes" on my old car ok it did go a bit more but I did find I went through some turbo hoses as all it really did was put more fuel through hence the extra, but then you are supposed to tell your insurance company so is it all really worth while , when you have paid out for the box then the extra insurance ? if I was going to do it again I would have it properly chipped
 
I will probably get mine properly remapped at a later date. But I will keep the ronbox to deal with the MAF. I also understand that you can run them together to give around 165bhp! -see energy tuning's website for more details.
 
Epicuser said:
I will probably get mine properly remapped at a later date. But I will keep the ronbox to deal with the MAF. I also understand that you can run them together to give around 165bhp! -see energy tuning's website for more details.
Click to expand...

The TD4 won't make 165bhp for long before something fails. The turbo and injectors take a massive pounding at those power levels. For longevity a max of 135bhp would be better.
If you need more then either get a V6 Freelander buy more powerful car altogether ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
The TD4 won't make 165bhp for long before something fails. The turbo and injectors take a massive pounding at those power levels. For longevity a max of 135bhp would be better.
If you need more then either get a V6 Freelander buy more powerful car altogether ;)
Click to expand...

I agree, I wouldn't have both on, and if I have a remap, I would see if they could alter the MAF setting to compensate for the Pierberg MAF.
 
Nodge68 said:
The TD4 won't make 165bhp for long before something fails. The turbo and injectors take a massive pounding at those power levels. For longevity a max of 135bhp would be better.
If you need more then either get a V6 Freelander buy more powerful car altogether ;)
Click to expand...

Which is exactly why my rally Freelander has had the engine put back to standard. Running a 3ltr turbo, uprated injectors, larger intercooler it made 210Bhp on the rolling road.However, the clutch was slipping too much.It was reckoned that if a racing clutch was fitted it could achieve around 260bhp. BUT according to Dave Billings of Tornado Motorsport and Anthony Fearn of the former Freelander Storm, who built identical vehicles (one of which is the one I now own) , it was quite easy to get through a turbo on just one days racing.:eek:
On the road I could spin the wheels in 3rd, 4th and 5th gears. It was never a relaxing drive as everything was done at break-neck speed and quick gear changes. At least now it's more relaxing to drive and I have a Synergy box fitted for when I want a bit more power.
 
I've a BLUESPARK box on my TD4 set on map2, well worth every penny at less than £200. I find much more torque and bloody quick pick up, even thru the autobox, don't half surprise a lot of people-especially those who obviously think "it's only a ****ty Freelander" types. I get about 35mpg in everyday use compared to around 30 before I got the box on, but it is so much more useable. Recommended highly-bluesparktuning.co.uk
 
I've sorted all my fuelling system and fitted the Ronbox and it now actually does something when I press the pedal down. I can even overtake things....

Oh, and currently on 42mpg but only because it's winter- in summer I'm getting 45+ without probs.
 
I'm getting an average of 33mpg with the Ronbox and all the mods. But it does spend way too much time doing short journeys around South London.

Considered getting a Leaf........ I'm booked on a test drive later this week. Might be worth it as the running costs are extremely low, and my monthly fuel bill is quite high......
 
Epicuser said:
I'm getting an average of 33mpg with the Ronbox and all the mods. But it does spend way too much time doing short journeys around South London.

Considered getting a Leaf........ I'm booked on a test drive later this week. Might be worth it as the running costs are extremely low, and my monthly fuel bill is quite high......
Click to expand...

PS. As a 2nd car
 
Epicuser said:
I'm getting an average of 33mpg with the Ronbox and all the mods. But it does spend way too much time doing short journeys around South London.

Considered getting a Leaf........ I'm booked on a test drive later this week. Might be worth it as the running costs are extremely low, and my monthly fuel bill is quite high......
Click to expand...

Be cautious of the Leaf's claimed low running costs? The Electric you need to put into it ain't that cheap, unless you generate your own.
Then they cost much more to buy than an equivalent conventional car, sometimes there are hidden costs like battery rental, insurance is more and they depreciate hugely!!
I did look into it last year but by the time I factored everything in it was surprisingly expensive and restrictive transport!! I ended up with an Astra GTC diesel , that is averaging 50mpg!!
 
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Nodge68 said:
Be cautious of the Leaf's claimed low running costs? The Electric you need to put into it ain't that cheap, unless you generate your own.
Then they cost much more to buy than an equivalent conventional car, sometimes there are hidden costs like battery rental, insurance is more and they depreciate hugely!!
I did look into it last year but by the time I factored everything in it was surprisingly expensive and restrictive transport!! I ended up with an Astra GTC diesel , that is averaging 50mpg!!
Click to expand...
Battery rental is the big hidden cost.
 
Datatek said:
Battery rental is the big hidden cost.
Click to expand...

It depends.

You don't have to rent the battery. You just pay more in the 1st place.

Its not hidden either - the salesman was very up front about it, explaining the various ways to run a Leaf.

I very much doubt I'll go down this route, but it might just work for me. I do a lot of miles around South London and the TD4 auto is not very economical - 20-30mpg typical depending on the length of journey. Today I did about 15 miles with 2 stops and I have another of about 10 miles with 1 stop to do in a moment. The Leaf would be perfect.

I have a friend who covers about 25,000 miles a year in one and it has slashed his fuel bill big time, and it only costs pennies to charge up. He has driven it down to Devon and back. You just have to stop every 80 or so miles and do a rapid recharge, which takes about 20 minutes or so and charges up to 80%. He said it took a little longer, but as he has a small child, he needs to make frequent stops anyway. And with the Nissan charge card which came with the car, it didn't cost him anything to charge the car up.
He does have a huge choice of vehicles from a GT-R, several Yeti, a tank, and a few other Skodas. :D so spoilt for choice.
 
Epicuser said:
It depends.

You don't have to rent the battery. You just pay more in the 1st place.

Its not hidden either - the salesman was very up front about it, explaining the various ways to run a Leaf.

I very much doubt I'll go down this route, but it might just work for me. I do a lot of miles around South London and the TD4 auto is not very economical - 20-30mpg typical depending on the length of journey. Today I did about 15 miles with 2 stops and I have another of about 10 miles with 1 stop to do in a moment. The Leaf would be perfect.

I have a friend who covers about 25,000 miles a year in one and it has slashed his fuel bill big time, and it only costs pennies to charge up. He has driven it down to Devon and back. You just have to stop every 80 or so miles and do a rapid recharge, which takes about 20 minutes or so and charges up to 80%. He said it took a little longer, but as he has a small child, he needs to make frequent stops anyway. And with the Nissan charge card which came with the car, it didn't cost him anything to charge the car up.
He does have a huge choice of vehicles from a GT-R, several Yeti, a tank, and a few other Skodas. :D so spoilt for choice.
Click to expand...
If you don't rent the battery, you have to factor in the horrendous cost of replacement. Life expectancy is an unknown at the moment, but judging by battery technology in general, it's not likely to be that long.
 
I had a Toyota Auris Hybrid as a company car for a while. The BIK was ridiculously low, MPG was great (60+) and it drove well. All in all a great car. I suppose the proof of the pudding would be if I'd actually buy one with my own money - too right I would if I needed such a car now.

Worth looking at.
 
Tbh, there's plenty of small petrol cars now that give fantastic mpg- better than the sort of thing we get from the Prius things at work. If it's just economy you're after, get a small, cheap VW diesel Golf or Polo or a small petrol car. If you want to save the planet, then don't get a Prius....

I thought about getting a second small car but small cars in my experience are not the best for 200 miles of motorway a day- I know as I tried it when I had the Paj. And second insurance, MOTs, repairs etc negated the savings. I just drive slower instead. I know you couldn't drive slower if you tried though... ;)


How about a motorbike? Or even an electric bike? Possible with your work..?
 
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