Freelander 1 Td4 Cam Chain Jumped?

Hi guys,

I have just brought a TD4 Freelander off a local mechanic who hates anything land rover, originally they were breaking it and i was told by his son "the fuel pump has gone" later to be told take the car or nothing in which they said "the cam chain snapped" with one final diagnosis as i took it away of "the cam chain jumped a tooth we think".

I further asked them and they said it would only run on 1 cylinder when sprayed with "sniff" (easy start) my only issue is speaking to his son he has exclaimed to me they didn't look to hard as the previous owner already wanted a part exchange and was to happy to take another vehicle.

Do any of you know anyway I can confirm if the cam chain has jumped a tooth (it definitely has not snapped as it turns over.) it also has fuel at all 4 of the injectors with the rear pump humming away. I would try some easy start myself but unfortunately i don't have any and the battery is on charge.

Any advice would be appreciated before we give up and break the vehicle, its a 2005 155,000 mile hippo.

It's impossible for the timing chain to jump, as it's running in a guide for most of its distance.
If the timing was out, it the compression wouldn't be right, so does it sound normal when cranking it over?

You can also test the compression by feeling for it if you turn the engine by hand.

You can start an otherwise healthy diesel with WD40, by directing a quick spray into the intake manifold directly, while cranking.

None starts on the TD4 (which incidentally isn't a LR engine, but from BMW), are often a split pressure regulator O ring, or insufficient low pressure fuel supply from the low pressure pump. You need to put a diagnostic on it, so you can see the LP supply rail pressure, which should be about 350kPa. Under 300kPa will cause starting issues, and if it's below 25okPa, then start is inhibited altogether.

Thank you for that advice, when i go down later with my charged battery I will check the fuel pressure on the diagnostics, there are no fault codes present on my mates something stupid grand snap-on computer that he uses for work (updated to newest software) I would say it sounds normal when cranking over on the key but i will post a video later that will add to this. Where would you spray the WD40/easy start as i havent tried myself but they have been spraying it into the pipe that is just by the extra ambient air temperature sensor towards the EGR valve is this the best location?

I have heard this and am very tempted to order a new one on the off chance. Thank you very much for your reply.

Codes on the TD4 EDC are rare, so live data is the diagnostic route to take.

High pressure needs to be around 5000kPa at cranking speed, much less and there's insufficient pressure for the injectors to spray correctly.
If rail pressure is low when cranking, then the pressure regulator O rings will be the issue, which is actually quite common, but cheap and easy to fix.
The LP rail pressure needs to be above well 250kPa for it to start, and over 350 if the engine is going to make full power.


To start a reluctant diesel, then you need to spray EasyStart (EasyStart is likely to start it, but also potentially damaging) or WD40 (will help start a sluggish diesel and won't cause damage) it directly into the manifold, which is best done by removing the elbow boots pipe at the EGR valve. Once started, the engine will idle ok with this pipe removed, but will give a code if it's revved above around 1500 Rpm.
Hope this helps.

As promised videos below, i know i was using Easy Start in the video i have tried WD-40 + Clutch cleaner, on occasion it would begin to fire as heard in the 2nd video (typically it wouldnt do it on camera except for a split second) but die as soon as you let go of the key.

The battery may have been getting slightly run down although it did have a jump pack it has alot of use out of it, diagnostic data is in the 3rd video while cranking.

Video 1:


Video 2:


Video 3:


Hope somebody can come up with more options than me.

Hosing it down with brake cleaner or ether will just knacker it, you're not supposed to empty the can into the intake..

It should catch on a huff of the stuff..

If not you have issues, i'd do a compression test first..