TD4 auxiliary belt

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Alteredtech

Alteredtech

Well-Known Member
Posts
515
Location
France
Hi,

I own a Freelander 2004 TD4

I need to replace the auxiliary belt ( changed 8 year old ago ), so I asked the main dealer he advised me to replace the tensioner and the pulley, which come with a higher cost.
I also asked for the water pump, he told me that is no need to change because need to remove the injectors to access to the water pump.
So I looked to the workshop manual ... it costs more of labor than the waterpump itself ...

So does the water pump need to be changed, and when ?
Does I need to change the belt pulley ?
 
I can understand them saying to replace the pulley as they do degrade and fail regularly.

However, they are not cheap and you'll be paying top dollar if you get it from a stealer.

I dunno about the tensioner on the TD4, but it would be very good advice on an L Series diesel. The tensioner failing on the L Series is a reasonably common cause for scrapping the car - the tensioner fails, the belt goes loose and comes off the pulleys, gets wrapped round the main pulley and pulls the cam belt off its pulley resulting in catastrophic damage to engine. Have not heard of it happening on the TD4, probably because it has a chain and the design may not end up with the aux belt round the main pulley.

Dunno about the pump.
 
Hi, I have a 2004 FL1 & unless there's a problem with the aux. belt tensioner it should be ok. If yours has air con then these are the belts you need ( use the Contitek belts as others seem to perish quite quickly).
 

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TD4 water pump lasts about 130 k miles in my experience. Dunno why the injectors need to come out to do it!?

Took me about 3 hours to do the first one ever. Tis a fiddly job but best bet is to check for smooth turning, no play and no leaks when belt is off. If OK then leave it.
Should it fail the belt derails but, as above, no harm to engine as it has a camshaft chain enclosed.
 
Hi,

In my area, there is some so called 4x4 specialists, and some independent garages you’re always uncertain about how much you will pay. They don’t want look to that car, they do what is profitable and easy, for the rest they find excuses to don’t the job.

The previous owner changed the water pump because it was leaking. More than 1300 euros at an independent garage, because they fix it at the second try when they finally changed the thermostat housing …
 
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andyfreelandy said:
TD4 water pump lasts about 130 k miles in my experience. Dunno why the injectors need to come out to do it!?

Took me about 3 hours to do the first one ever. Tis a fiddly job but best bet is to check for smooth turning, no play and no leaks when belt is off. If OK then leave it.
Should it fail the belt derails but, as above, no harm to engine as it has a camshaft chain enclosed.
Click to expand...

The LR workshop manual tell you to remove the camcover to access the water pump … perhaps to have more space to remove the water pump …
 
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No need for any injectors to be removed to change a water pump & thermostat, unless the main crankshaft pulley is making a noise, it's ok tensioner should also be ok unless you can see the auxiliary belts bouncing about which you would feel also when driving, auxiliary belt and air compressor belt only need to be changed 45minute job for both, links below for belts.
Gates V-Ribbed Belts Fits Freelander 75 Impreza Legacy MG ZT - 5PK870 | eBay

Gates V-Ribbed Belts Fits Land Rover Freelander Rover 75 - 5PK2030 | eBay

If the crank pulley ever needs to be changed only fit a Corteco one as after market pulleys do not last, also a special tool is required to change the pulley.

Ycpy0Ail.jpg
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Thanks for advice,

The pulleys and tensioner have 18 years and 105 000 miles because they were never changed,
The water pump and the auxiliary belts i have only seen 30 000 miles in years.

So I was planning only to change the auxiliary belt at the garage.
I was looking for the pulleys and tensioner if it worth changing ...

I am serving the vehicle myself, and changing some parts, but I don't feel confident to change the auxiliary belt, since I never done it before, and I don't think a freelander is the best to start with ...
 
Nothing hard about changing the belt, not like a timing belt.

Just the correct 15/16 inch flat ring spanner and an extension tube on it to get leverage. Mind your fingers though!!!
 
Alteredtech said:
So does the water pump need to be changed, and when ?
Does I need to change the belt pulley ?
Click to expand...

The water pump only needs replacing if it's faulty.
And there's absolutely no need to remove the injectors to change the water pump, considering the injectors are in a different part of the engine.
Find a better garage.

Alteredtech said:
The LR workshop manual tell you to remove the camcover to access the water pump … perhaps to have more space to remove the water pump …
Click to expand...
That's for the 1.8 K series petrol, not the TD4 petrol, as the came cover is a sealed part of the engine casing.
 
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Nodge68 said:
The water pump only needs replacing if it's faulty.
And there's absolutely no need to remove the injectors to change the water pump, considering the injectors are in a different part of the engine.
Find a better garage.
Click to expand...

As I mentioned it is what written in the official LR WorkShop manual that you need to remove the camshaft cover. It goes the same for Haynes Manuel which tell you to remove the camshaft cover. There is probably something wrong with the procedure. And I think the mechanic simply follow the procedure :(

I forget to mention I live in France, and this sort of car is little exotic ...
I already find a better garage, I make the much I can myself ;)
 
Alteredtech said:
The LR workshop manual tell you to remove the camcover to access the water pump … perhaps to have more space to remove the water pump …
Click to expand...
That's for the 1.8 K series petrol, not the
Alteredtech said:
As I mentioned it is what written in the official LR WorkShop manual that you need to remove the camshaft cover. It goes the same for Haynes Manuel which tell you to remove the camshaft cover.
Click to expand...

That's completely incorrect, I've done this very job many times, and there's no need to remove the cam cover on the TD4 engine to change the water pump.

The K series 1.8 petrol needs the cam belt (timing belt) cover removing, as the water pump is driven by the cam belt.

The TD4 diesel isn't, the water pump is driven by a drive belt, off the crankshaft pulley.
The water pump is at the back of the engine, almost at the bottom, 50cm away from the camshaft cover.
It's simple not correct to remove parts of the engine that aren't related to the part you want to replace.

Show me the part of the manual that says removing the camshaft cover is necessary to change the water pump, and I'll still say it's wrong.

Alteredtech said:
I forget to mention I live in France, and this sort of car is little exotic ...
I already find a better garage, I make the much I can myself
Click to expand...
The Freelander has sold all over the world, and I've never heard anyone call it exotic. :eek:
It's just a standard BMW M47 engine, turned sideways on, and made to drive the front wheels, with a power take off for the rear wheels added in.

There's nothing wrong with doing a job yourself, but it's best to apply some logic to a job, instead of blindly following some manual, as you'll remove much more than needed, and potentially cause other more complex issues as a result. ;)
 
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Alteredtech said:
View attachment 258793
Click to expand...
The first page you ringed is reffing to the petrol 1.8, and can be completely ignored.

The TD4 section you ringed is referring to the decorative engine cover (look as section 2a), typical Haynes garbage manual. It's definitely not referring to the actual camshaft cover, injectors or anything else not relevant for the water pump.
 
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Arctic2 said:
No need for any injectors to be removed to change a water pump & thermostat, unless the main crankshaft pulley is making a noise, it's ok tensioner should also be ok unless you can see the auxiliary belts bouncing about which you would feel also when driving, auxiliary belt and air compressor belt only need to be changed 45minute job for both, links below for belts.
Gates V-Ribbed Belts Fits Freelander 75 Impreza Legacy MG ZT - 5PK870 | eBay

Gates V-Ribbed Belts Fits Land Rover Freelander Rover 75 - 5PK2030 | eBay

If the crank pulley ever needs to be changed only fit a Corteco one as after market pulleys do not last, also a special tool is required to change the pulley.
Click to expand...

For the pulley if I need to change it, I have an impact wrensh ... or a long torque wrensh wich one is better ?
 
Alteredtech said:
For the pulley if I need to change it, I have an impact wrensh ... or a long torque wrensh wich one is better ?
Click to expand...

In my opinion do not use an impact wrench gun, as i have seen them damage the crank shaft, and also throw the timing chain out, on a R40 (rover 75 diesel engine which as the same engine as the FL1
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smashed rockers.
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Use the crank holding tool and a good Extra Long Breaker with an impact socket.
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Hi, when a vehicle has a timing belt which drives the water pump most manufactures recommend changing the lot & sell it as a kit (belt,tensioner & water pump) however the FL1 with the BMW M47 engine isn't like that, first off it has a timing chain & it's the aux. belt that drives the water pump. Doing the aux. belt is a very straight forward job so as others have said, unless the water pump is leaking/noisy or causing overheating problems don't worry about it & please ask on here for advice before believing what is in the Haynes manual;). Best of luck.
 
You can change the crankshaft pulley, but as others have said you need the special tool. Its not that expensive though. What you will need is quite a bit of heft to get the bolt free. The belt is actually not that bad to change but watch your fingers when releasing the tension.
Take some pictures to remind you of how the belt goes.
 
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