Tailgate will only open with engine running

I've searched through similar threads on here and other Land Rover sites, but can't find anything with this problem we've had for at least four months or more.

It's a 2001 3 door Td4 if this helps.

Problem as follows.

Unlock all doors by clicking button twice on fob. Front doors open but tailgate will not, even the tailgate window does not lower as it should when you are trying to open the tailgate at this point either. Put the key in the ignition, turn ignition to on, lights on dash etc, tailgate will still not open. Turn key to start engine, go to tailgate wait approx. 20 secends and you can open the tailgate as normal. To drive the car you have to dead lock all doors otherwise the tailgate will open on its own while driving. If you only open drivers door its ok to drive as tailgate is locked as per passenger door. Also you can only close the tailgate with the engine running and have to dead lock the passenger door and tailgate by using the lock switch on the dash prior to turning off the engine otherwise the tailgate window will lower its self a little as if the tailgate is going to open.

I've checked relays on the drivers side behind the trim in the boot area, I've replaced the micro switch in the tailgate handle for a new one, I've had the tailgate lock solenoid out and it looks fine.

Only thing I can now think of that is a possible cause is that the previous owner who used to post on here I was reading one of his posts and he said he spilt a bottle of lemonade on the dash and it ran behind the gauges. Well I've looked at the fuse box under the dash and it does feel to have some sticky residue on it, I also under stand the CCU is behind the fuse box and this controls the locking, windows, alarm amongst other things.

I'm no auto electrician when it comes to something like this, I'm ok with 60'-70's cars but that's my limit.

Any suggestions other than taking it down the lane and setting fire to it which I've honestly considered as its driving me mad are appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

i think you have answered your own question, from memory that lemonade caused more than a few probs, the ccu unit must be causing your grief tho.

If I was to take the Freelander to a garage would plugging it into a diagnostic machine be able to pin point the problem?

I would pull the fuses one by one and clean them and put them back in then do the same to the relay's once that is done you know that there is no question about them

Most garages know nothing about the freelanders and the diagnostic machines that most garages have will only get engine fault codes.

I also doubt that the landrover specific diagnostics will pick up any information from your fault. You need a freelander friendly auto sparky....

Ok I won't bother going down the garage route with regards to plugging into a diagnostic machine.

Looks like I've no choice then but to remove fuse box and CCU and clean all the electrical connections, fuses and relays.

I'll report back on my findings, but if anyone has anymore suggestions then please let me know.

Today I removed the fuse box and ccu.

I split the casings on both items to get the circuit boards out. Only a small amount of lemonade residue on the outside, the circuit boards were dry, but I still cleaned them and all contacts, plus fuses and relays with electrical contact cleaner, also cleaned the plugs that plug into the fuse box and ccu.

All re-assembled, battery reconnected, rear window recalibrate, but still no joy opening the tailgate, in fact it won't open now with the engine running as it did before. With engine running if I press the rear wiper switch, after approx two sweaps of the wiper the window will drop its 17mm and the lock solenoid opens onto the first latch, but operating the door handle doesn't operate the solenoid to release the door off the latch. Push the door shut and the window will not go up, I have to operate by using the dash switch, first down a bit, then back up to close it.

Got to say I'm well and truly stumped and very very fed up with this FL.

Anyone know of a auto electrician who can work on these things, I live in Pontefract, West Yorkshire and don't mind travelling within reason to get it fixed.

I think the lemonade may be a red herring.

I think I would be checking the wiring that goes into the door from the body.(in the rubber bit). Could also be to do with the roof sensor if it is a 3dr.

Was this Guitarjon's Freelander Sucram?

Guitarjon's motor had the lemonade episode on here.... Black TD4 with black wheels.

If thats the car then we noticed that his rear wiper was parked on the glass at 45 degrees - he was told that the parking sensor in the wiper motor might be faulty, I think he just took the wiper arm off and re positioned it onto the rubber bit where it should be...anyway if this is the case try removing the rear wiper fuse to isolate it then recalibrate the rear window and see if anything improves

I'm with Brack on the rear wiper. If the CCU doesn't know the wiper is parked, it won't open the rear door.

That makes a lot of sense about the wiper parking position and also the fact you have said that a couple of sweeps of the wiper changed things as well!

These things are too complicated for their own good sometimes

Still doesn't really explain having to wait 20 seconds to open the door after starting the engine! Does the remote window function work? And does the lock bring it back up again?

Having to have the engine running suggests that the permanent live is not live and it is taking its feed from elsewhere..... but saying that it hasn't worked with the engine running since cleaning the contacts in ccu...

Definitely need to isolate the wiper from the equation and see what you have then.

Brack said:

Was this Guitarjon's Freelander Sucram?

Click to expand...

Yes unfortunately it is, he told us it was a good one, if I'd seen his posts on here before the my good lady had seen it, we wouldn't have bought it. I've ironed out lots of the problems, she's spent loads of money and has hardly been able to use it through problem after problem, I think we've done 1,200 miles in it since we got it in July 2013.

This morning I could open the tailgate with the engine running, went for a drive as I've changed the steering wheel, came home parked back up on the drive, turned engine off, locked it up, came back to it after a few mins and the tailgate don't wont to open again even with the engine running. Aaaaahhhhhhh its driving me insane!!!

Right chaps I'll try the wiper fuse, thanks for the info on it not parking properly.

Yes the window goes down when you press and hold the unlock button on the fob and yes you can raise the window by using the key in the tailgate lock thing,.

I removed the rear wiper fuse, think its was number 30 and no joy opening the tailgate with either the engine running or not.

Something I have noticed and I don't no if its right, but when I double click the unlock button on the key fob I can only hear the driver and passenger door solenoid actuator what ever you call it operating, should I be able to hear a similar noise from the tailgate?

But why should it open and close ok with the engine running this morning after its been stood over night, then go for a 5 mins drive and it refuses to drop window and tailgate open!

So we know that when the engine is off the window works on remote and boot lock. So we have permanent live to window.

Looking on rave - The window wiper motor has to be in the correct position which allows a relay in the ccu to to allow the window motor to actuate. I think it assumes that the wiper is parked when the alarm is armed hence the remote working.

The ccu has what looks like4 interconnecting relays that operate in series to allow the correct functioning of the window and that is not taking into account the drop function.

Oh you beat my post.

The back door doesn't unlock with the locking. When the hippo is unlocked a live goes to the back door to enable the solenoid to actuate when you squeeze the door handle.

The engine oil pressure switch connects to the ccu for use with the heater rear screen.....

Which is the only reason the engine would have to be running to give a feed to the ccu . So I guess you must have more damage in the ccu that you can't see.

I guess I have come full circle Back to the lemonade I think....... Replace ccu with a known one and see if the gremlins have gone?

ZDomZ said:

The engine oil pressure switch connects to the ccu for use with the heater rear screen.....

Which is the only reason the engine would have to be running to give a feed to the ccu . So I guess you must have more damage in the ccu that you can't see.

I guess I have come full circle Back to the lemonade I think....... Replace ccu with a known one and see if the gremlins have gone?

Click to expand...

Ok, so can I get a second hand CCU from any Freelander 1 or do I need one from 2001 Td4 Auto 3door like mine is for it to work, plug and play as to say. Or if I bought a new one from Land Rover do they need to reprogram it on my vehicle?

I would just ensure that the numbers on the unit match. I don't think that they are coded but someone else should know.

My only concern is I am working from an earlier wiring diagram. Not a 2001 td4 one..... But i am fairly sure that this section will be the same anyway. When you were in the wiring loom near the fuse box and in the plug for the ccu were there "twisted pairs" of wiring or were they all individual wires?