Tailgate won’t open

Hi All!
My Freelander 2 (10 plate) sport is having intermittent issues with the tailgate.

The tailgate won’t open from the fob switch, dash showing message that tailgate is open, so the car won’t lock. This has happened twice in the last few weeks but suddenly starts working again after a few days.

Any ideas whether it’s a fuse or part that needs replacing.
Thanks in advance

Mine did the same; started playing up a few weeks ago, wouldn't unlock from the normal key press but would operate from the tailgate button on the fob.
Yesterday it wouldn't open but wasn't completely closed so was showing on the dash as open.
Therefore couldn't lock the car.

Tried pressing both lock and unlock buttons on the dash and swapped fuse 25 with another one but still no luck - Pippa2002, you could try those.

Then the car wouldn't start.
Managed to get the tailgate open by ripping the interior panel off from the inside and wiggling the plug around and it suddenly worked, but still only from the tailgate button on the fob.
It is not gummed up or full of crud so mechanically it is ok.
Charged the battery and cleared all the codes and then disconnected the battery for an hour but the car still won't start.
The brake pedal feels strangely solid and the fob doesn't seem to want to go in cleanly but eventually the dash lights up but it won't go.
I now have codes showing PCM fault, BCM fault, ATCM fault and PAM fault.

Bit of a loss where to go from here.

Pippa2002 said:

Any ideas whether it’s a fuse or part that needs replacing

Click to expand...

If it's showing the rear hatch is open, then the lock actuator assembly needs replacing.

Lexi 1 said:

Managed to get the tailgate open by ripping the interior panel off from the inside and wiggling the plug around and it suddenly worked, but still only from the tailgate button on the fob.

Click to expand...

Sounds like you have 2 faults. The switch in the boot handle is known to fail, so replacements are available cheaply.
The lock actuator could also be faulty, so a replacement would be sensible.
The lock can also be released from the inside the boot, but you need to drill a small hole in the black lock cover, in the correct place to be able to access the lock release hole in the lock assembly behind the cover.

Solved the engine starting issue; someone had piggy-backed a feed off F4 to supply a dash cam and it had fallen out when I pulled the cover off.
The fuse diagram in the book doesn't say that it also supplies the engine start module.

Whereabouts are you supposed to drill in the lock cover, a picture would be handy?
I have ordered a new handle so will change that when I get a chance.
I think that the actual lock actuator itself is ok as it goes with a solid clunk, albeit only off the tailgate button on the fob.
How do you release the plug connector from the lock, is there a tab somewhere?

Lexi 1 said:

Whereabouts are you supposed to drill in the lock cover, a picture would be handy?

Click to expand...

I have pictures of where to drill, but currently the forum won't let me post them.

Nodge68 said:

If it's showing the rear hatch is open, then the lock actuator assembly needs replacing.

Click to expand...

Thanks… will get one ordered

You can remove the cover however, and see the small slot on the bottom passenger side of the lock, which needs exposing with a hole in the cover.

Solved the engine starting issue; someone had piggy-backed a feed off F4 to supply a dash cam and it had fallen out when I pulled the cover off.
The fuse diagram in the book doesn't say that it also supplies the engine start module.

Whereabouts are you supposed to drill in the lock cover, a picture would be handy?
I have ordered a new handle so will change that when I get a chance.
I think that the actual lock actuator itself is ok as it goes with a solid clunk, albeit only off the tailgate button on the fob.
How do you release the plug connector from the lock, is there a tab somewhere?

Ok, thanks.