Swaying? 95 county lwb

Mark Piercy · Dec 7, 2016

How about your shocks? Any signs of wetness? I've unbolted them before when in doubt to gauge resistance in pairs!

surplus · Dec 7, 2016

ukadamwest said:
i've done this a few times now..

Yes. order new bolts and nuts if you cant shift the nut to get some thread and then drive the bolt out, cut the nut off then use a breaker bar to break the seal on the nut and a smaller diameter bolt to hammer the bolt out.

the bush has a metal sleeve and the sleeve and bolt can corrode together. when that has happened to me i've ended up getting an angle grinder in the gap between the bush and the mount to cut the bolt out. try and drive it out first. you're going to loose those bolts and nuts, which are nylock.. use copper grease when putting back together. get new bolts for the chassis to arm mount.

Top tip.. do the chassis to radius arm bolt first by getting a long breaker bar on your socket. if you do the axle end first you'll shift a turn or two then the radius arm will spin and if that bolt has seized in on the axle end, it will be a pain to lock the arm from rotating if you've had to cut the bolt. As me how i know this...

if the bolt is seized to the bush, you'll need oxy or a blowtorch to melt the rubber then clam the arm in a vice and drive the metal sleeve out with a cold chisel.

when you but it back together be prepared for a lot swearing, effing and blinding.. get the chassis to arm bush in first then line up the arm to axle mount.. this where the swearing comes in. i have used a ratchet strap to line up the axle mount in the past.

Alright they are not seized to the bushing the bolt would spin freely with the nut attached just the nut is one there good. Ill try and get a long ass breaker bar on it and break it lose. I appreciate all the help guys. Also one more quick thing ive been noticing while driving down the road it wants to stutter kinda like it was going to go dead. You think that could be the fuel filter junked up i originally thought maybe it would be the spark plugs but i replaced them like maybe 2000 miles ago

surplus · Dec 7, 2016

Mark Piercy said:
How about your shocks? Any signs of wetness? I've unbolted them before when in doubt to gauge resistance in pairs!

I replaced the shocks not to long ago front and back because it still had the original ones on it with 172k miles and it made no difference.

ukadamwest · Dec 8, 2016

surplus said:
Alright they are not seized to the bushing the bolt would spin freely with the nut attached just the nut is one there good. Ill try and get a long ass breaker bar on it and break it lose. I appreciate all the help guys. Also one more quick thing ive been noticing while driving down the road it wants to stutter kinda like it was going to go dead. You think that could be the fuel filter junked up i originally thought maybe it would be the spark plugs but i replaced them like maybe 2000 miles ago

could well be.

check the easy and most obvious first. you've replaced the plugs.. good. what about the leads and the dizzy (distributor)

surplus · Dec 8, 2016

ukadamwest said:
could well be.

check the easy and most obvious first. you've replaced the plugs.. good. what about the leads and the dizzy (distributor)

Oops sorry I should have clarified I also replaced the spark plug wires distributor cap and also the ignition coil.

Doo · Dec 8, 2016

I have also helped our works mechanic replace the bushes. Bit of a mare, but doable and much easier with two of you.

Does the engine stutter when power on (throttle pushed down), throttle off (pedal up) or steady speed?

surplus · Dec 9, 2016

all three when the car is idling it will bog down a bit and then when i first start to accelerate it stutters pretty bad and when i just drive down the road normally it will do it every one and a while but it tends that after a little bit of driving it doesnt do it as frequently

Doo · Dec 9, 2016

surplus said:
all three when the car is idling it will bog down a bit and then when i first start to accelerate it stutters pretty bad and when i just drive down the road normally it will do it every one and a while but it tends that after a little bit of driving it doesn't do it as frequently

Hmm, I was hoping it was perhaps only while it was under power, which would have led me to believe it may be a vacuum problem (advance/retard timing issue). However, if it's doing it all the time & you've replaced the sparks & leads, I wonder if perhaps you may have an injector issue or a problem with the fuel delivery (pump).

Do you know what system it is fitted with, perhaps being American it could have the Skinners Union (SU) carbs or most likely the Lucas 14CUX injection system which was fitted to your model from 1990 to 1995...

If it "is" the SU carbs, then it could be a fault in the oil level in he dash pot is too low!

Sorry I can't be of more help, but I don't know what system you're running.

I've found this for the Lucas 14CUX fuel injection for you:

http://www.actproducts.co.uk/2011/l...n-system-–-installation-and-diagnostic-notes/

...and this for the Skinners Union carbs:

https://www.howacarworks.com/fuel-systems/adjusting-an-su-carburettor

Hope it helps narrow it down

ukadamwest · Dec 9, 2016

Tried setting the timing up?

goonarmy · Dec 9, 2016

Does it smoke at all? When was the air filter changed?

surplus · Dec 10, 2016

goonarmy said:
Does it smoke at all? When was the air filter changed?

Doesnt smoke and probably like 4 to 5k miles ago

surplus · Dec 10, 2016

ukadamwest said:
Tried setting the timing up?

Elaborate please??

goonarmy · Dec 10, 2016

surplus said:
Doesnt smoke and probably like 4 to 5k miles ago

OK, just to check what the service interval on them? My 3.9 was 6000 miles.

Doo · Dec 11, 2016

Or, read my suggestions... What system are you running. Forget smoke and whatever, simply asking is it injection or carbs so we can get to the bottom of why it is stuttering. That's all...

classic kev · Dec 11, 2016

'95 should be hotwire injection. If there is a stumble or hesitation the tricky bit is trying to diagnose if it is an injection or ignition issue. I think do the easy bits first, if dizzy cap, rotor arm and leads have been replaced I think I might also be tempted to throw on a new ignition amplifier just to be safe. If at all possible, please don't use pattern ignition parts, Classics just don't like them, genuine Lucas all the way. I would suggest check/set ignition timing and check the vac advance. If all that checks out then get in to checking the injection system.

surplus · Dec 11, 2016

Doo said:
I have also helped our works mechanic replace the bushes. Bit of a mare, but doable and much easier with two of you.

Does the engine stutter when power on (throttle pushed down), throttle off (pedal up) or steady speed?

I drove it again this morning and it's only doing it when accelerating and when it happens it kinda feels like hitting a bump but the rpm drops a bit everytime it does it hope this helps some more

Doo · Dec 11, 2016

That does point towards timing, as in vacuum advance. So if it has a distributor, is it fitted with points or is it electronic?

The distributor could be worn! This can wreak havoc with the ignition advance/retard. However, just as possible, the small bore vacuum pipe can be blocked or split, which would also prevent the advance/retard upon acceleration.

Easy enough to check.

classic kev · Dec 12, 2016

Doo said:
That does point towards timing, as in vacuum advance. So if it has a distributor, is it fitted with points or is it electronic?

The distributor could be worn! This can wreak havoc with the ignition advance/retard. However, just as possible, the small bore vacuum pipe can be blocked or split, which would also prevent the advance/retard upon acceleration.

Easy enough to check.

It will have full electronic ignition, Lucas 35DLM8 distributor iirc. Advance curve for the 4.2 is same as the non-cat 9.35:1 3.9 engine but 4.2 has lower compression ratio. Worn Distributor maybe but would think unlikely, they seem fairly robust if looked after. If vac advance not working checking the pipe is the first and most obvious thing to do but normally it is the diaphragm inside the vac unit that fails, a simple "suck test" will confirm. HTH

Doo · Dec 12, 2016

classic kev said:
It will have full electronic ignition, Lucas 35DLM8 distributor iirc. Advance curve for the 4.2 is same as the non-cat 9.35:1 3.9 engine but 4.2 has lower compression ratio. Worn Distributor maybe but would think unlikely, they seem fairly robust if looked after. If vac advance not working checking the pipe is the first and most obvious thing to do but normally it is the diaphragm inside the vac unit that fails, a simple "suck test" will confirm. HTH

The problem for me is I don't know what engine he has and we all know what the "murricans" do to ruin a perfectly good car

I agree with the suck test, but forgot to add that

I have seen the small bore pipe full of oil or fuel before which is a common problem and of course, if it makes it's way to the diaphragm it can rot it....

surplus · Dec 12, 2016

Doo said:
The problem for me is I don't know what engine he has and we all know what the "murricans" do to ruin a perfectly good car

I agree with the suck test, but forgot to add that I have seen the small bore pipe full of oil or fuel before which is a common problem and of course, if it makes it's way to the diaphragm it can rot it....

My apologies it's the 4.2l v8 I probably should have put that. Yes some murcans ruin cars but I'm trying not to ruin this one lol that's why I'm asking you guys

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