Swaying? 95 county lwb

Hey guys I was wondering if any fellow 95 range rover county lwb owners have problems with swaying when letting off the gas peddle and when first pressing down the gas peddle? When I first bought my range rover it swayed a little, but I had asked around and they said it was probably something to do with the all wheel drive. Now its pretty bad to where if im driving at highway speeds it could run me into someone, and also now if i let go of the steering wheel it will drive to the right. If anyone has had anything similar let me know thanks again guys!

I'm guessing this is what we called the Classic over here? Is it on air springs or does it have metal springs?

surplus said:

Hey guys I was wondering if any fellow 95 range rover county lwb owners have problems with swaying when letting off the gas peddle and when first pressing down the gas peddle? When I first bought my range rover it swayed a little, but I had asked around and they said it was probably something to do with the all wheel drive. Now its pretty bad to where if im driving at highway speeds it could run me into someone, and also now if i let go of the steering wheel it will drive to the right. If anyone has had anything similar let me know thanks again guys!

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check radius arm and trailing arm bushes

Grrrrrr said:

I'm guessing this is what we called the Classic over here? Is it on air springs or does it have metal springs?

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I suppose yes. And springs

jamesmartin said:

check radius arm and trailing arm bushes

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Alright will do so im guessing its not supposed to sway at all then?

surplus said:

Alright will do so im guessing its not supposed to sway at all then?

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to coin a US expression.. hell no !

where in the colonies are you?

ukadamwest said:

to coin a US expression.. hell no !

where in the colonies are you?

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Alabama and great expression lol!!

surplus said:

Alright will do so im guessing its not supposed to sway at all then?

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no it sounds like theres movement in an axle which will self steer one way on acceleration and the other on over run

jamesmartin said:

no it sounds like theres movement in an axle which will self steer one way on acceleration and the other on over run

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Ok thank you its been raining here lately *thank god haven't had rain for 60 days* but once the rain calms down some I will get out there and take a look. Its like this when I let off it sways over to the left and when i press the gas peddle back down its like it corrects itself back in the right place if that makes sense. And also if i hold my foot on the place that it does that it will make the car really difficult to drive like swaying back and forth lol

welcome to the site.. we'll have you talking English in no time and as an added bonus help you with Range Rover problems.

let us know what you find when the rain lets up

surplus said:

Ok thank you its been raining here lately *thank god haven't had rain for 60 days* but once the rain calms down some I will get out there and take a look. Its like this when I let off it sways over to the left and when i press the gas peddle back down its like it corrects itself back in the right place if that makes sense. And also if i hold my foot on the place that it does that it will make the car really difficult to drive like swaying back and forth lol

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You obviously have movement in the axles. You need to check all bushings and anchor points.

Ok so i got a look underneath today and the bushing inside what ever this is called *dont know that names to these things* but its the closest bolt to the right of the shock when the car rolls back and forth that things moves pretty badly but the other side doesnt move at all guessing thats probably the problem... What would this here thing be called? thanks and thanks ukadamwest

They are the bottom links or radius arms. Bush for rear ends NTC1772. Front mounting bushes are STC618.

also do the radius arm bushes at the other end of the radius arm

items 8 and 11 are what you need

I'm sure the guys on here will be able to help you out, don't lose faith in one of the UK's best products - I've owned four 'Classics' over the last 15 years & despite one of them covering galactic mileage I've never experienced your problem. Good luck

we also provide sarcasm, humour (or humor for those in the colonies) on request with at least 24 hours notice, more opinions on EAS than you can shake a stick at, ragging on each other depending if you have petrol or diesel..

.. as well more knowledge than a dealership could ever hope to combine.

How good are your wheel bearings? Any rumbling sounds? Can you jack up a wheel and move a wheel back and forth - to and fro etc. to feel for any play…. in fact do that with all the suspension parts.

Ok so the auto store close to me had the bushing for the rear of them shockingly but didnt have the top ones. I got under there to see how hard those bolts were gonna be and the rears wouldnt budge at all any tips for that maybe and impact or something?

surplus said:

Ok so the auto store close to me had the bushing for the rear of them shockingly but didnt have the top ones. I got under there to see how hard those bolts were gonna be and the rears wouldnt budge at all any tips for that maybe and impact or something?

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Clean them with a wire brush apply some plus gas or the like, a long wrenching bar and socket should move them.

surplus said:

Ok so the auto store close to me had the bushing for the rear of them shockingly but didnt have the top ones. I got under there to see how hard those bolts were gonna be and the rears wouldnt budge at all any tips for that maybe and impact or something?

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i've done this a few times now..

Yes. order new bolts and nuts if you cant shift the nut to get some thread and then drive the bolt out, cut the nut off then use a breaker bar to break the seal on the nut and a smaller diameter bolt to hammer the bolt out.

the bush has a metal sleeve and the sleeve and bolt can corrode together. when that has happened to me i've ended up getting an angle grinder in the gap between the bush and the mount to cut the bolt out. try and drive it out first. you're going to loose those bolts and nuts, which are nylock.. use copper grease when putting back together. get new bolts for the chassis to arm mount.

Top tip.. do the chassis to radius arm bolt first by getting a long breaker bar on your socket. if you do the axle end first you'll shift a turn or two then the radius arm will spin and if that bolt has seized in on the axle end, it will be a pain to lock the arm from rotating if you've had to cut the bolt. As me how i know this...

if the bolt is seized to the bush, you'll need oxy or a blowtorch to melt the rubber then clam the arm in a vice and drive the metal sleeve out with a cold chisel.

when you but it back together be prepared for a lot swearing, effing and blinding.. get the chassis to arm bush in first then line up the arm to axle mount.. this where the swearing comes in. i have used a ratchet strap to line up the axle mount in the past.