As promised peters877.
My landy is a 1986 110, and it had the 2.5n/a lump in it. The 2.5n/a lasted me well, but the back pressure became so bad I had to drill a hole in the rocker cover and attach a length of hose pipe to help it breathe!
It got to the stage where as soon as I hit a hill I was down to third gear.
My original plan was to buy another 2.5n/a lump and recon it and then swap it straight over. So I bought a 2.5n/a lump with all the bits included for £50.
However, just after I bought the lump, my mate bought a 90 with a 2.5 petrol lump in it and I was really impressed, plenty of power and nice and quiet to. So I bought a 2.5 petrol engine with all the bits from ebay for £48=result!
I took the petrol engine round to my dads(retired mecanic, very handy
) and he stripped it in his garage and inspected it. It was found to be in good condition so we just replaced the big ends and mains, and fitted new, hepolite piston rings. It was also decoked and valves reground.
Before we took out the old engine I took me landy to work and steam cleaned the engine bay so it was nice and clean.
Taking the engine out was very easy, and even the dreaded bell housing bolts came out easy.
Befor we fitted new engine we fitted a new borg&beck clutch, new girling slave cylinder and a heavy duty clutch fork(my old clutch fork was just staring to crack).
Putting the petrol engine in was easy, its a straight swap, I used new engine mounts.
The rad and all the pipes are the same and fitted with no probs. The only thing I had to modify was the exhust downpipe, the diesel one is 3 inches to long, so the local landy place cut out 3 inches for me and welded it back together, cost me a tenner.
I used to live feed from the loom for the stop solenoid to the diesel pump as my feed for the coil.
My advice would be to have all your bits ready before you swap engines and make sure you have good crimp terminals for the coil/carb. Also, whilst the engine is out, give the engine bay a good clean and repaint.
some piccies;
