Disco 2 SVS mod

Andy Warren said:

Hi Stan, as pop pops says well done & I hope it sorts everything. Do you know if this mod is only for the three amigos ? As on mine prior to me doing the o/s fr. hub I had that farting noise from the modulator & the TC light illuminate briefly when reversing off my drive on full lock or going over the odd pot hole. It seemed ok for a month or so but ever since it's been doing the same thing & the Foxwell tells me it's to do with low pressure in the modulator (or something like that) on the o/s rear circuit.
Do you think this mod will cure my problem ? I've never had the ABS or HDC lights on just that noise, TC light & a vibration on the brake pedal like the ABS is cutting in. All the best.

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I'm not going to jump the gun here.
I'll report back once I've finished, one way or the other.
But the farting sound as you call it, and the TC light flashing usually just means that you have lost traction on one wheel and the TC system has cut in, to do its job, and this is just telling you this. It doesn't indicate a fault at all, rather the opposite. My impression is that if it ever does anything briefly it isn't much of a problem. It is when the three amigos come on and stay on that you have a problem.
With me in the past it has been a hub playing up and changing the hub solved it, but this time the Foxwell indicated "shuttle valve" fault which is why I am doing the mod.
If you have a recurring fault and Foxwell tells you what it is then maybe you need to to a fancy bleed of the ABS system, which I think, only think mind, Foxwell may be able to help you with. But this is a bit above my pay grade here, me being justa grunt an orl!!

I like the ratchet bodge

MJI said:

I like the ratchet bodge

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Well at least:
a/ it cost feck all
b/ it worked and
c/ it is completely reversible.

I'll be using it when I put it all back together again!

Oh and I'd have spelled "bodge", "dodge"!

PopPops said:

The mod is for the SVS or shuttle valve switch error, I don’t think it is for other errors, but it does seem to need doing on all eventually.

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As I say reversing on lock (no throttle needed being an auto) no kerbs or bumps involved & the odd bump/pot hole when driving, sleeping policemen aren't a problem & an unclassified road I use daily which is just a bumpy gravel track doesn't raise the issue. So I'll plug the Foxwell in tomorrow to refresh my memory as to the fault it showed & let you know/go from there.

Stanleysteamer said:

Well at least:
a/ it cost feck all
b/ it worked and
c/ it is completely reversible.

I'll be using it when I put it all back together again!

Oh and I'd have spelled "bodge", "dodge"!

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Are those bolts 'kin tight or just hard to get at (or both)?

Andy Warren said:

Are those bolts 'kin tight or just hard to get at (or both)?

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I personally didn't find them that tight, to get started, I started all three with a longish ornery right angled Allen key, but they remain stiff for a long time and, due to the awkwardness of getting to them, cos yes they ARE hard to get at, I made up the tool which did make it a lot easier. Locating the Allen key upside down, by feel and/or with a mirror while maintaining the block out of the way is not fun. I got aching muscles and skinned knuckles doing it, which don't normally get nowadays!
But according to the problems @MJI had, I was lucky!

Andy Warren said:

Are those bolts 'kin tight or just hard to get at (or both)?

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Yes

They were stiff all the way out.

Right!
nightmare!
I have wired in the two wires to where they should be and tested the switches with a meter and I cannot get any connection to give me a low resistance reading.
I am on the point of cutting the crosswire that connects the two switches to test each switch individually but am beginning to wonder if I am testing it correctly. I am testing it by setting the meter to a low resistance range. nothing happens.
I have tested the new wires I wired in to see if there is a break in either of them but they both come up as sound.
Is it possible that BOTH switches can have gone "down" at the same time?
HELP!!! @sierrafery

Stanleysteamer said:

Right!
nightmare!
I have wired in the two wires to where they should be and tested the switches with a meter and I cannot get any connection to give me a low resistance reading.
I am on the point of cutting the crosswire that connects the two switches to test each switch individually but am beginning to wonder if I am testing it correctly. I am testing it by setting the meter to a low resistance range. nothing happens.
I have tested the new wires I wired in to see if there is a break in either of them but they both come up as sound.
Is it possible that BOTH switches can have gone "down" at the same time?
HELP!!! @sierrafery

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This is why I got new ones and tested before fitting.

Should be 3 different resistances in use.

on, off, and one on, one off.

Resistance is low, is the meter OK?

MJI said:

This is why I got new ones and tested before fitting.

Should be 3 different resistances in use.

on, off, and one on, one off.

Resistance is low, is the meter OK?

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Thanks for this!
The meter is fine it reads all other stuff fine, I will be getting a new one and fitting it once that happens but that'll be at the end of the month I think as I'll order it to be delivered to a neighbour in the UK and we'll pick it up when we go back for a wedding.
Can't help thinking there are a lot of Youtubes and other things on tinternet that make nothing of the need to test it before going any further.
So for the mo I've put it back on.
I made the mod anyway just in case I'd missed something and sho nuff Foxwell clears the codes then it comes back up again immediately.
Who did you buy yours off, as a matter of interest? And how much was it?
I've seen them advertised at a range of prices.

Stanleysteamer said:

Right!
nightmare!
I have wired in the two wires to where they should be and tested the switches with a meter and I cannot get any connection to give me a low resistance reading.
I am on the point of cutting the crosswire that connects the two switches to test each switch individually but am beginning to wonder if I am testing it correctly. I am testing it by setting the meter to a low resistance range. nothing happens.
I have tested the new wires I wired in to see if there is a break in either of them but they both come up as sound.
Is it possible that BOTH switches can have gone "down" at the same time?
HELP!!! @sierrafery

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It's shown in the tutorial how to measure, if you get no reading on those two wires the switch pack is fubar

I got mine from m and m about 4 years ago for approx 30 quid

But it kept passing mots

sierrafery said:

It's shown in the tutorial how to measure, if you get no reading on those two wires the switch pack is fubar

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Which I more or less assumed, but I had to have something back in there to protect against damp, if nothing else. So I went through the motions and although Foxwell says its fubar at least I know I can take it out and put a new one in faster and more efficiently.
Obviously I will be getting a new one, only question is, do I do the mod to the new one or do I put it in, as it is, and hope it'll all work, as it should, for at least a while?
answers on a post card please!!

Do the mod on the new one too from the beginning

Who needs postcards when you're on LZ?

sierrafery said:

Do the mod on the new one too from the beginning

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Right!
Brave decision, but I can see why as it is such a PITA to do later.
Thanks ever so much for your help, as always.

Do it to new one, much easier

MJI said:

I got mine from m and m about 4 years ago for approx 30 quid

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So you've hung on to it for 4 years without fitting it?
Ah, I see, it "kept passing MOTs".
I couldn't stand the idea of possibly not having TC if I needed it. I only need it sometimes, but when I do, I do!
ABS and HDC? I sh!t em!
But this is deffo pushing me into fixing a connection to my diff lock, mine being a 2000 MY.

MJI said:

Do it to new one, much easier

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That's at least two votes then.
Motion carried!!!!