Sudden idling issues and then stall :(

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Grit Valve said:
A highly over filled engine can be disastrous can melt the pistons and head I Doubt its that :D worth checking connections for corrosion tho but no point avoiding it the time has come to get it read no more guessing .
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Yeah I think I filled correctly :p Does that happen because the oil absorbs heat faster than the water cooling can remove it?

Yeup, think that'll be it... just hope it can get to whereever diagnostics are... Do the RAC have them? Just in case it goes fully haha
 
Ask saint isn't he near you I don't know if he's got one for the p38 Still,I'm sure some had around here has I've not needed one as yet I get a free plug in at work if needed sorry tc
I would if I could . Just ask mate they can only ignor you or say no :D
 
TCubed said:
:( Nope hasn't fixed it: new filter hasn't arrived yet so can't rule that out, but symptoms from today:
1. revs dropped very low on flat road in 3rd at 30mph - engine light came on but then off as revs bumped up again.
2. Whilst in Richmond park 50 yards from carpark!!! at 20mph, stalled - stopped, ignition off and on again, and restart.
3. On way home conked out again. According to friend following me just before I stopped some black smoke was ejected: I assume that's unburnt fuel being pushed through exhaust? Doubt cats will have liked that :/
4. Made it to my road :p and lost again.. resisted temptation to coast home due to tranny box. Stopped and restarted.

So.. The randomness and suddenness of these cuts suggests a fuelling problem am I right? What about the in-tank pump? Tank is pretty full so I'd ruled that out thus far but now...
The cuts were not accompanied by erratic revving this time, it just dropped to zero.
Incidentally, apparently the higher revs were put in when the chip was installed.

I'm away for a week tomorrow but hopefully I can get this sorted when I'm back.
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Get it on diagnostics. But be prepared for a fuel quantity servo fault. Which is a new pump or pump refurb. A fuel quantity servo fault WILL shut the engine down by closing the stop valve. It's the only thing that does that, everything else has backups that take car to limp home mode.
 
Grit Valve said:
Ask saint isn't he near you I don't know if he's got one for the p38 Still,I'm sure some had around here has I've not needed one as yet I get a free plug in at work if needed sorry tc
I would if I could . Just ask mate they can only ignor you or say no :D
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Sorry bud, I don't have Diag. for the P38, only the All Comms for the L322...

I have used my Laptop with Dopeys EAS Lead (Supplied by Datatek) to sort out Dopeys EAS issues a while back (as Dopey doesn't/didn't have a Laptop to take out to the car)....

Agree with Wammers - sounds like the FIP Quant. Servo...
 
It does sound like the fuel quanity actuator I had it go on mine when put into a gear it would stall I got it read and it was the actuator to get around it until I could get the pump done was to raise the revs to 1k before it was put in gear and that worked till I got the fix done I got a recond pump and removed and fittedit myself
 
You can get a new head for the pump but its £300 quid unless you know the history ie weather its been rebuilt recently its not worth it choice is yours :D
 
MrGorsky has very kindly offered to diagnose me in a few days, so hopefully we'll get some hard info to go on soon :)

Grit, I noticed you seemed to be having a very similar issue recently, have you found a root cause yet?
 
TCubed said:
MrGorsky has very kindly offered to diagnose me in a few days, so hopefully we'll get some hard info to go on soon :)

Grit, I noticed you seemed to be having a very similar issue recently, have you found a root cause yet?
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I've checked all the usual suspects when ovalandrover came over I turned the fuel up to 128 instead of 126 so its now at 750 rpm so far when cold its fine I do a 10 mile trip to work its idles fine smoothe tick over now and sometime the odd drop/ pause still when hot I wouldn't call it bad idle just that it drops every now and then its the pump is wearing I wouldn't say it was electric as it only does when hot and all revs are smooth it just the fact these pumps wear and it causes a lack of fuel at idle and can cause a cut out.

when its really bad it will stall all the time you can play about with the sliding top but its hit or miss
Turning up the idle sits the problem in another place until it eventuly wears again .
All I can say is double check your idle with the diagnostics machine for starters
 
Grit Valve said:
I've checked all the usual suspects when ovalandrover came over I turned the fuel up to 128 instead of 126 so its now at 750 rpm so far when cold its fine I do a 10 mile trip to work its idles fine smoothe tick over now and sometime the odd drop/ pause still when hot I wouldn't call it bad idle just that it drops every now and then its the pump is wearing I wouldn't say it was electric as it only does when hot and all revs are smooth it just the fact these pumps wear and it causes a lack of fuel at idle and can cause a cut out.

when its really bad it will stall all the time you can play about with the sliding top but its hit or miss
Turning up the idle sits the problem in another place until it eventuly wears again .
All I can say is double check your idle with the diagnostics machine for starters
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Thanks :)

Yeah from what people say my idle is very high - just started her up after a week's standing and it hovered at just shy of 1000rpm for a minute or so. I'm think the previous owner (DeRanged Rover can confirm if he happens to see this! :p ) said that this was done when the powerbox was installed, and since it's been like that for 1.5 years now I don't think it's likely that the fuel quantity servo has been in a state of slightly failing all that time..

I'm still clinging to the dodgy fuel hope :p Popped in some injector cleaner just in case

FIPs seem to be quite expensive.. can they be rebuilt of fortified for a lesser cost if the problem source is known?
 
Rebuild is a matter of putting new seals in the pump and cleaning pump and checking and Recalibrating but the top electric part stays with the pump on a average £600 rebuild is the cost

I didn't know this at first if you want the top part better know as the HDK £160 trade around £300 to the likes of most its the top part that causes the problems so like me a £600 rebuild no top change 300 ish for a new top its a 15 year old pump I tell you what I should of bought new dont forget there will be an removal installation charge

So all in all your better buying a new pump that will have a new HDK top for 1000 pounds or recon second hand and chance the top So now I'm thinking that was not wise !
Decisions decisions
 
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Grit Valve said:
Rebuild is a matter of putting new seals in the pump and cleaning pump and checking and Recalibrating but the top electric part stays with the pump on a average £600 rebuild is the cost

I didn't know this at first if you want the top part better know as the HDK £160 trade around £300 to the likes if most its the top part that causes the problems so like me a £600 rebuild no top change 300 ish for a new top its a 15 year old pump I tell you what I should of bought new dont forget there will be an removal installation charge

So all in all your better buying a new pump that will have a new HDK top for 1000 pounds or recon second hand and chance the top So now I'm thinking that was not wise !
Decisions decisions
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You can get a pump fully refurbished to new standard for £600.00. Just fitted one. Search for Diesel Jones in Manchester.
 
wammers said:
You can get a pump fully refurbished to new standard for £600.00. Just fitted one. Search for Diesel Jones in Manchester.
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But they don't change the top when you do a drive in rebuild most rebuild are around £600 if the top is £300 to the public they arnt going to stick that in for nothing are they
Plus when checking pump if the top is ok at the time no need too so you get your pump done 30k later the HDK goes your stuffed should of bought a new pump there only £100 diffrance to a rebuild and haveing to buy a new electrical top for the pump .
 
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Grit Valve said:
But they don't change the top when you do a drive in rebuild most rebuild are around £600 if the top is £300 to the public they arnt going to stick that in for nothing are they
Plus when checking pump if the top is ok at the time no need too so you get your pump done 30k later the HDK goes your stuffed should of bought a new pump there only £100 diffrance to a rebuild and haveing to buy a new electrical top for the pump .
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They change the top if required all part of the refurbishment. The quantity servo is the only bit in the top that can have any wear in it.
 
Right, the problem has been identified as strange little gremlins broke into the engine and stalled it a few times... :p

Big shout out to MrGorsky for helping me with his Nanocom this morning :)
It showed no faults with the engine or gearbox, and it has indeed been running fine since I got back on Wednesday. Therefore I'm voting air or rubbish in the fuel system which has now gone :)
We didn't change the idle as the means to do it seemed a meaningless collection of numbers!
And the best thing? I now have one touch rear windows!!! :p
 
TCubed said:
Right, the problem has been identified as strange little gremlins broke into the engine and stalled it a few times... :p

Big shout out to MrGorsky for helping me with his Nanocom this morning :)
It showed no faults with the engine or gearbox, and it has indeed been running fine since I got back on Wednesday. Therefore I'm voting air or rubbish in the fuel system which has now gone :)
We didn't change the idle as the means to do it seemed a meaningless collection of numbers!
And the best thing? I now have one touch rear windows!!! :p
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Those numbers should be 128 as standerd the one in the box by its self would be current fuel setting glad its gone cool:D
 
There was a fault when first scanned, but when cleared it didn't come back...


NANOCOM - EDC.APP - EDC faults file

GLOW PLUG (HEATERS) FAULT
Type: INVALID FAULT,LOGGED,INTERMITTENT
RPM = 8
WATER TEMP = 92
OCCURRANCE = 6
---


and the SRS one.

NANOCOM - SPS2.APP - DISCOII SRS fault file

CODE 064
THE SECONDARY WARNING LAMP CIRCUIT
IS FAULTY
(INTERMITTENT)
---
 
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