Sudden idling issues and then stall :(

[Datatek]

So I drained a little fuel from the filter - pure diesel and a bit of fluff (I think from the Tupperware), but no water. Then I screwed the filter on much tighter (by hand only) as there was a film of diesel around the top.

Started up and in the first couple of minutes there were major seeming misfires, erratic idling and finally stalling when I revved her.
However upon restart she ran smoothly (same as ever at 948rpm Wammers?). Engaged D and R in both high and low range, and the revs dropped a fraction as usual initially but then restored. Braved to drive off the driveway and do a lap of the block (engine warm by this point).. no mishaps

So.. do we think I just failed to properly tighten the filter and so air was getting in? Or has the problem just paused until I least expect it
It seems like I've driven a long way (~100 miles) with the new filter.. but maybe it was getting shaken looser and finally became loose enough to let air in...

Would be adorable if that was all it was.... Thanks for everyone's help if that's all that needs doing

Idle should be 800 +/- 50rpm. Not sure how you can read 948 from the scale on the tacho.
I'd be inclined to replace the fuel filter just in case it has been contaminated.

 

[TCubed]

Idle should be 800 +/- 50rpm. Not sure how you can read 948 from the scale on the tacho.
I'd be inclined to replace the fuel filter just in case it has been contaminated.

By not recording an error margin It's just under 950 - is there any point of turning this down? Is it possible without diagnostics?
Mine is chipped if that adds anything?

Grumble.. just changed it

 

[Datatek]

By not recording an error margin It's just under 950 - is there any point of turning this down? Is it possible without diagnostics?
Mine is chipped if that adds anything?

Grumble.. just changed it

Idle can only be adjusted with diagnostics,
Fuel filters are cheap but suit yourself.

 

[TCubed]

Idle can only be adjusted with diagnostics,
Fuel filters are cheap but suit yourself.

If it ever needs to go on diagnostics I may ask for that then.
And yeah I probably will do

 

[wammers]

Idle should be 800 +/- 50rpm. Not sure how you can read 948 from the scale on the tacho.
I'd be inclined to replace the fuel filter just in case it has been contaminated.

Idle should be 750 +- 50 Keith.

 

[wammers]

So I drained a little fuel from the filter - pure diesel and a bit of fluff (I think from the Tupperware), but no water. Then I screwed the filter on much tighter (by hand only) as there was a film of diesel around the top.

Started up and in the first couple of minutes there were major seeming misfires, erratic idling and finally stalling when I revved her.
However upon restart she ran smoothly (same as ever at 948rpm Wammers?). Engaged D and R in both high and low range, and the revs dropped a fraction as usual initially but then restored. Braved to drive off the driveway and do a lap of the block (engine warm by this point).. no mishaps

So.. do we think I just failed to properly tighten the filter and so air was getting in? Or has the problem just paused until I least expect it
It seems like I've driven a long way (~100 miles) with the new filter.. but maybe it was getting shaken looser and finally became loose enough to let air in...

Would be adorable if that was all it was.... Thanks for everyone's help if that's all that needs doing

Air cannot get into the filter when the engine is running if the lift pump is working, as there is a positive pressure, only diesel can leak out. However air can be sucked in when the engine is stopped and the hot fuel cools and contracts. This can also happen in the case of the two O'rings at either side of the filter.

 

[Grit Valve]

I never do anything hand tight not even filters hand tight and a quater turn with a strap type filter wrench hand tight with oily slippery hands yea right
Like you went and washed em

 

[wammers]

I never do anything hand tight not even filters hand tight and a quater turn with a strap type filter wrench hand tight with oily slippery hands yea right
Like you went and washed em

Hand tight is the norm for filters of this type. Wipe your hands.

 

[TCubed]

Hand tight is the norm for filters of this type. Wipe your hands.

I donned the rubber gloves this time, I did get I'd say maybe a whole turn more out of it.. so either it's shaken loose or I really failed the first time round

 

[Datatek]

Idle should be 750 +- 50 Keith.

Yes, my bad mine idles at 800 rpm and I had that in my head.

 

[TCubed]

Nope hasn't fixed it: new filter hasn't arrived yet so can't rule that out, but symptoms from today:
1. revs dropped very low on flat road in 3rd at 30mph - engine light came on but then off as revs bumped up again.
2. Whilst in Richmond park 50 yards from carpark!!! at 20mph, stalled - stopped, ignition off and on again, and restart.
3. On way home conked out again. According to friend following me just before I stopped some black smoke was ejected: I assume that's unburnt fuel being pushed through exhaust? Doubt cats will have liked that :/
4. Made it to my road and lost again.. resisted temptation to coast home due to tranny box. Stopped and restarted.

So.. The randomness and suddenness of these cuts suggests a fuelling problem am I right? What about the in-tank pump? Tank is pretty full so I'd ruled that out thus far but now...
The cuts were not accompanied by erratic revving this time, it just dropped to zero.
Incidentally, apparently the higher revs were put in when the chip was installed.

I'm away for a week tomorrow but hopefully I can get this sorted when I'm back.

 

[Grit Valve]

Two things make that engine light come on number 4 injector or the cps crank sensor imo one is failing .

 

[TCubed]

Two things make that engine light come on number 4 injector or the cps crank sensor imo one is failing .

What's the CPS sensor? Both of those sound like things that would show up on diagnostics, so that might be the way to go.

The engine light didn't come until the car almost stalled, I thought it was because the revs had dropped so low that it thought it was off.. Bit like when the oil light comes on on a manual if it revs too low.. although that may have just been my Clio

 

[Grit Valve]

What's the CPS sensor? Both of those sound like things that would show up on diagnostics, so that might be the way to go.

The engine light didn't come until the car almost stalled, I thought it was because the revs had dropped so low that it thought it was off.. Bit like when the oil light comes on on a manual if it revs too low.. although that may have just been my Clio

Ok that's normal if vertuly stalled then yes it would flicker or was it more than just a flicker ? The cps is the sensor near the starter motor it registers what speed the engine is doing via the tabs on the fly wheel don't mess with it untill you have read up about it you mustn't ! Move the ajusting bracket that holds it in place

 

[TCubed]

Ok that's normal if vertuly stalled then yes it would flicker or was it more than just a flicker ? The cps is the sensor near the starter motor it registers what speed the engine is doing via the tabs on the fly wheel don't mess with it untill you have read up about it you mustn't ! Move the ajusting bracket that holds it in place

No I would say it was informing me it was still synced more than anything - if it was a warning it was a terrible warning as it only lasted half a second

Is the CPS what tells the starter motor to turn off when it starts? Would a fault be recorded on diagnostics?

So do you think we're looking at an engine fault rather than a fuelling fault?

 

[Grit Valve]

No I would say it was informing me it was still synced more than anything - if it was a warning it was a terrible warning as it only lasted half a second

Is the CPS what tells the starter motor to turn off when it starts? Would a fault be recorded on diagnostics?

So do you think we're looking at an engine fault rather than a fuelling fault?

The enigine light only come on for lack of sync on petrols not diesels .
I'm afraid its diagnostic time to read stored faults .
Time to Ask a fellow member for help with nano ect
Don't forget tea and biscuits
Gl

 

[TCubed]

The enigine light only come on for lack of sync on petrols not diesels .
I'm afraid its diagnostic time to read stored faults .
Time to Ask a fellow member for help with nano ect
Don't forget tea and biscuits
Gl

Ah I made it so far without needing to

OK, I will look into that in a week's time

But let's assume that nothing shows up, what would the next thing to look at be, just so I can get thinking haha

 

[Grit Valve]

Ah I made it so far without needing to

OK, I will look into that in a week's time

But let's assume that nothing shows up, what would the next thing to look at be, just so I can get thinking haha

You just done a service have you disturbed any wire connectors the three you need to look at number 4 injector cps and fip .
Tis all I can think off you have you checked your levels again haven't over filled any think have you ???

 

[TCubed]

You just done a service have you disturbed any wire connectors the three you need to look at number 4 injector cps and fip .
Tis all I can think off you have you checked your levels again haven't over filled any think have you ???

The only thing that I could possibly have done would have been when I was screwing the filter tightly on it did bend the whole unit a couple of degrees?

As of last week when I did the fortnight on check; Engine oil is on level, as is PAS (can't see that mattering though ) and gearbox and transfer ended up being done by local garage whom I know well, so I trust them. (And I did check they had filled with engine running). Doesn't excess engine oil just burn off if you do overfill?

 

[Grit Valve]

The only thing that I could possibly have done would have been when I was screwing the filter tightly on it did bend the whole unit a couple of degrees?

As of last week when I did the fortnight on check; Engine oil is on level, as is PAS (can't see that mattering though ) and gearbox and transfer ended up being done by local garage whom I know well, so I trust them. (And I did check they had filled with engine running). Doesn't excess engine oil just burn off if you do overfill?

A highly over filled engine can be disastrous can melt the pistons and head I Doubt its that worth checking connections for corrosion tho but no point avoiding it the time has come to get it read no more guessing .