Static when filling - Pressure drops when filling - DO NOT ...............

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RS2000CUSTOM

Active Member
(2002 - 05) - ..... regardless of all you are told or read jump straight in and replace the compressor in the boot area.

I am lucky enough to be able to spend my own time and use of my Snap-On Solus Ultra to look after my TD6

On Monday I get the Air Suspension Inactive error on dash

I had only 1 code - pressure static when filling

Cleared easily drove all ok

Tuesday morning dash message again - now a different code - Pressure drops when filling

Error again cleared but within a mile dash message again - now error codes keep swapping between static and drops after each reset !

Prior to me buying my motor in Sept it had a new compressor fitted so in boot unit is only 3 months old (doesnt mean it not faulty though of course)

No leaks ANYWHERE on pipes, bags etc etc

Rear suspension is constantly trying to settle itself - front stays stable

Whilst monitoring live data the compressor kicks in and out but no or little increase in reservoir pressure - compressor eventually overheats and cuts out - and so on

Ride heights are all good except slight fluctuation of rear

Here begin the diagnosis

All height sensors I removed each link bolt and watched voltage reading - all good with no erratic data just smooth rise and fall of readings

Checked again still no leaks anywhere

Disconnect compressor air pipe to blow off valve - loads of air expelled from system (not compressor) and rear suspension went to bump stops on N/S/R and then shortly followed by O/S/R - front heights remained stable

With the use of a controllable air line I introduced air into the blow off valve T piece and I can (key off doors open or closed) raise and lower the rear suspension like Snoop Doggy Dog on a gangster rap video !

My conclusion is a one way valve somewhere wihtin the system is letting compressor air go straight to the rear air bags

Well I have found it !!!!

On the O/S under sill is the air tank receiver and in front of receiver is a solenoid assy

Having stripped the rear air bag solenoid within the unit I find that in the end of the brass plunger is a (wait for it ) a 1 way valve !

So I set about cleaning etc but sadly the end of the plunger is peened over and I am unable to repair the valve - so sadly its game over new solenoid block needed !

A shade under £400 - dealer part only but will keep looking see if I can get a better price

Having stripped the solenoid I can now see why the Static error occurs - it is because the compressor air is going straight to the rear air bag and the receiver pressure remains "Static" or the receiver is passing air straight to the airbag so the Pressure reading now drops

Hope this may help some of you to not dive straight in with a new compressor

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Part arrived late this afternoon today and it came complete with the 3 x rubberised mounting bolts (to eliminate vibration) and a new pipe to go to the receiver tank

Removed the alloy receiver tank from under the O/S sill and drained out about 1/8th litre of water

Began to fit the valve solenoid assy but the Mrs rang to say my 2 x large spicey pork chops and fried potatoes was ready for my tea so went home and gonna finish off tomorrow !



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First time fix !

Fitted the new solenoid valve block and started the car (car was on its bump stops)

Turned off engine but left on ign lights

Using my Snap-On Solus Ultra I then had to clear a multitude of errors

Restarted engine with all doors and tailgate closed

Compressor instantly fired into life

Quick as possible I went into Live Data Monitoring and receiver pressure initially went up and then reservoir valve shut and the air then got sent direct to suspension air-bags, vehicle went to standard ride height and settled instantly - reservoir valve opened and receiver went upto 170 psi and compressor then cut out

I then set car to "off road" mode and again near instantly it went straight up with compressor kicking in to refill receiver etc etc

Then set car to access height, again down it went straight away

This was now starting to be fun but I still got to calibrate suspension !!

So went for a very short drive to stabilise the car after having been jacked up on stands etc

Checked tyre pressure etc

So selected Calibrate Suspension on the Solus

All doors closed (drivers window open for access to Solus) engine running park brake on

Very simple operation to do

Select wheel diameter from 18", 19" or 20"

Measure each wheels distance from bottom of wheel to arch lip

Enter each measurement (unlike my first attempt to calibrate before I replaced the solenoid block the vehicle is stable throughout the measurements) in turn

Only after I pressed OK to accept the reading did the car make a quick "shudder" and car then instantly reset the heights itself

Out of interest i then measured all the heights again and the fronts and the rears are now within 2mm of each other

Then sprayed soapy water on any disturbed joints to ensure no leaks - All Good

Then sprayed Duck Oil all over solenoid block as it leaves a film of oil to help preserve fittings etc

Went then to local Weatherspoons for an early Xmas dinner and left vehicle inside workshop on flat surface in standard mode - air receiver was reading 167psi

Returned from pub 2 hours later and pressure was now 166psi but this is acceptible as apparently the EAS computer "wakes up" every 1/2 hour to "check" vehicle height and makes any slight adjustments (but will not fire up the compressor so it used air in the receiver)

Sorry for image quality as the refresh rate causes issues when trying to take a pic

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how do you know the current condition of your TC ?

Currently at 88,000 miles the vehicle is silky smooth

80,000 - 100,000 appears to be the average mileage before the TC explodes and gooses the Auto box

So I am taking the car for a new TC to be fitted and the gearbox stripped for inspection and clean only (I do not anticipate any internal problems because it is not the gearbox that is the potential for any problems it is the swarf from a dead TC that does the damage)

As I aim to keep my "Doozer" for 4 - 5 years the spend now gives me my best shot for trouble free motoring (yeah right I know I am being optimistic - lol)
 
surely you must get some early signs or wear ??

if you change your oil you can inspect the oil and amount of metal filings. so you can get a rough idea on the amount of wear.

if its been driven well, it could be fine ? some have lasted 130k on original gearboxes.

you don't wanna waste money surely ?
 
It is only my way of thinking but once the drive quality is compromised by a "failing" TC then it is too late for the gearbox and valve block assy

Transmission Oil in the sump is lifted through an oil filter by the pump and then fed to the TC

The TC then under pressure feeds the autobox

So ANY swarf originated by the TC is NOT filtered so therefore box is always unprotected from debris

Some warning of drive quality are :-

No drive from cold for a small amount of time until system pressurises

Smooth as silk gearchange becomes "no longer smooth as silk" !

Downchanges become noticeable - hard to describe but easy to notice if you drove vehilce for a while and this effect starts happening

Gearchange eventually becomes jerky

Total failure can end up with no drive forward or reverse or gearbox locks in 3rd and is an absolute pig to pull away under 3000 rpm !!!

Any of the above mean the dreaded swarf is already making its way through the gearbox !
 
It is only my way of thinking but once the drive quality is compromised by a "failing" TC then it is too late for the gearbox and valve block assy

Transmission Oil in the sump is lifted through an oil filter by the pump and then fed to the TC

The TC then under pressure feeds the autobox

So ANY swarf originated by the TC is NOT filtered so therefore box is always unprotected from debris

Some warning of drive quality are :-

No drive from cold for a small amount of time until system pressurises

Smooth as silk gearchange becomes "no longer smooth as silk" !

Downchanges become noticeable - hard to describe but easy to notice if you drove vehilce for a while and this effect starts happening

Gearchange eventually becomes jerky

Total failure can end up with no drive forward or reverse or gearbox locks in 3rd and is an absolute pig to pull away under 3000 rpm !!!

Any of the above mean the dreaded swarf is already making its way through the gearbox !
+1 dave and i know where to come for eas probs :D:D:D
 
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