Disco 2 Spring choice

I have a td5 that has been converted to springs and the back end has recently become what feels to me like very saggy,like it bounces for a while after pushing down on.I tow a trailer with an autograss car on I race quite often (roughly about a ton all in)
I am after some springs that are maybe firmer at the back,and quite fancy a go at off road driving in the old girl at some point too.Is there a good all round spring out there that would cater for both worlds? Iv read on here a few times that raising the car is not a good idea?
Any help or advice is always appreciated.

Shirley if it is bouncing around the first thing would be new dampers.

Cheers

Yeah I plan on changing the lot like,I should have put that in the description sorry!
So I guess it's a damper and spring choice then.

Bouncing is a symptom of old, leaking or dry dampers, as @neilly has already said.
If you do a lot of towing then you would have been better off retaining the air self levelling suspension, but that's not where we are, so in that case I would advise that you consider a pair of "heavy duty" springs and of course new dampers.
There's no need to go for blingy ultra expensive dampers, stock from any of the LR parts dealers will do the job quite adequately.

Yeah I'd have liked the air suspension but previous owner removed it.ive seen some heavy duty springs but they have a 40mm lift,are they available in standard form? Any particular makes to avoid?
Thanks for your replies

andy85 said:

Yeah I'd have liked the air suspension but previous owner removed it

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IMHO, its worth a little time working out how much work it would be to put it back on air - it'll be much better. post some pictures up, and folk will tell you what's missing

Failing that, coil springs are cheap as chips, and I'd fit whatever you think will do the job - I have britpart ones on my D1 - and they are fine - i would however spend proper money on the dampers - since these will affect the ride quality more than the springs.... YMMV

7-seater springs will give you more height over 5-seater springs.

If you already have 7-seater springs then look for HD springs.

Our 5-seater manages quite well with standard springs, but it's a 1999 and they are getting a bit weak.

I have an Firestone Coil-Rite 4121 airbag lift kit which will fit D1/D2, just haven't got round to installing it.

http://www.truckspring.com/products/Firestone-Coil-Rite-Air-Spring-Kit-Rear__4121.aspx

Peter

Thanks for all the advice

Contitiec or Dunlop

Refit air springs

Just had a quick look over it,didn't get right under as I'm not well at the minute,the bags have obviously gone so would need pipes bags and sensors to refit,presuming the pump is ok that is.The pump is still present underneath.is there anyway of testing it or would it be a case of join it all up suck it and see? Does the front run sensors too? I can't remember..
So next question,is cost of recommissioning the airbags vs some springs and dampers.....

andy85 said:

Just had a quick look over it,didn't get right under as I'm not well at the minute,the bags have obviously gone so would need pipes bags and sensors to refit,presuming the pump is ok that is.The pump is still present underneath.is there anyway of testing it or would it be a case of join it all up suck it and see? Does the front run sensors too? I can't remember..
So next question,is cost of recommissioning the airbags vs some springs and dampers.....

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The front does not use sensors.
The general costs would be about 140 - 160 quid for a pair of bags and about 25-30 quid each for the ride height sensors. It's rare for the pipes to have been removed completely, they're probably just cut off and taped up somewhere out of the way.
The only other thing you'll need is a compatible code reader,Nanocom, Hawkeye or Lynx to re-activate the air system in the SLABS ECU, that is provided that the compressor is functional.
You would still need to replace the dampers though.

The compressor has never been switched off,it will drain the battery if left for more than a few days.

andy85 said:

The compressor has never been switched off,it will drain the battery if left for more than a few days.

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the compressor can't drain the battery as long as it's not running and if the SLS was not disabled you should hear bongs and see the warning on the dash...unless it was bodged

Never hear any bongs as you call them.the light illuminates on start up then goes out.
The compressor buzzes for a while underneath after the car is switched off.Iv had a multimeter on the fuse for that number 14 under the bonnet iirc and when removing that fuse the draw went back to normal.

andy85 said:

Never hear any bongs as you call them.the light illuminates on start up then goes out.
The compressor buzzes for a while underneath after the car is switched off.Iv had a multimeter on the fuse for that number 14 under the bonnet iirc and when removing that fuse the draw went back to normal.

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Audible alerts can be turned off in software ...

You would think though,that if they went to the hassle of turning off the noise they would've turned off the compressor??

andy85 said:

You would think though,that if they went to the hassle of turning off the noise they would've turned off the compressor??

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That may be the fault they couldn't fix ...

The fuse for the compressor is actually fusible link FL9 and relay is R5 so better remove one of those cos other fuse covers other systems too which maybe you didnt notice not working, especially F14 which is for IDM so if removing other fuse than that FL9 cancels the drain it means that it's from some other thing