Spongy clutch pedal

I have recently replaced the clutch on my 1998 1.8 petrol freelander and having managed to put it back together i've found that the clutch feels very spongy without much pushback. I suspect that the slave cylinder actuator rod may have turned to the side on removal but i didn't see any fluid leakage.

My question is really whether anyone has experience of the slave cylinder and how easy it is to allow air ingress. It's a sealed system type so would require replacement of the whole hydraulics so i thought i'd get some other thoughts before investing.

If you're considering writing some witty comment about burning it or chucking it in the river, don't bother as i need help, not ridicule.

check the bracket where slave connects as there are prone for bendin an movin an then slave doesnt push as much as it should but to be fair everyone we have done at work has never been right until we changed the master an slave

OK, ta. The bracket seemed fine when i put it on but i will check in the morning. It seems that the hydraulics are a common issue on the hippo and not too expensive relatively either.

Good news, I managed to find a master/slave cylinder on a Sunday cheaper than anywhere else! It took about ten minutes to fit - the hardest part is getting the slave to fit behind the steering arm.

The lesson here is that if you have to remove the slave cylinder then be very careful to keep it straight and if possible then re-attach the plastic straps.

just had same fault on my freelander, clutch pedal went to the floor and would not come up again, the master and slave had gone, the bracket was bent, the release bearing had desintegrated and the pressure plate had been ruined, clutch didn't have much left on it either! I got the gear box out today and wondered if it is really neccessary to remove the IRD to get it out? Any views? Also before putting the new release bearing on i noticed that there is travel in the release fork. Only a bit! Will the release bearing hold this sufficiently in place or should I replace the fork and seals?

From the photo, that clutch has really had it - worth checking the flywheel as if it goes down to the rivets then it can score the flywheel and it then needs skimming, which is a real pain. When you say travel - do you mean that the lever can be pushed a certain distance without engaging or that there is some sideways movement? Sideways movement should be fine but the actuating forks could be bent in the former case. The release bearing isn't very well attached to be honest and it does seem like there's a fair bit of play but i think this is supposed to be the case.
I didn't remove the IRD, just unbolted it with the two bolts on top and two on the bottom. I also found that removing the engine plate towards the back of the engine helps to get it into position easier, i then re-attached it once i'd got the gearbox back on.
I also did it without a winch, in which case getting the car as high in the air as possible is a help to enable clearance to move it out whilst it's on the jack. Unfortunately I hadn't got it very high so i had to manhandle it off the jack onto blocks of wood, which was tricky.
I also found putting the gearbox back in a bit tricky as it didn't want to slide home (even with some hefty coaxing with a rubber mallet) so i used the bolts to pull it together slowly, being very careful to monitor the gaps all round to ensure it's straight.

The cylinder I got was £35 or so, the general price is about £45 - 50. I think Brookwells in Bovey Tracey do them for about £45 if you're not too far away.

Thanks for your reply, i got a new clutch kit and cylinder set for just over £100. I've heard the box can be a bit of a bi**h to put back on! It seems the sideways travel in the release fork is normal then, haynes are not that good really! two axle stands and a cheap jack to support the engine did the trick. Thanks again,