Some pics of my Disco :D

yeah you've remembered right, D1 gear and transfer lever are a one piece part. Although if you wanted to be fancy you could make it into a three lever setup like on a series

Tell truth, one likes the cable system the d2 uses

One would enjoy two levers in the original single position, both longitudinal movement using cables

Wouldn't take too much to manufacture, also however, one does think "why bother"

You could go fancy seeing as you have onboard air air solenoid linkages

May just prove simpler to get a D1 R380 and swap out the input shaft. The box I've got in has done ~ 90K and given the state of the intended replacement that I've just split open it might be a wee while before it comes out of the car.

Particularly want suffix L though!

No rush though mate don't worry I've got loads to sort before mainbox.

Have y'all seen the air solenoid kit that Italian firm whose name escapes me makes?

Very fancy but if prefer cables if anything tbh.

Anyway, one for the future.

For now, it's build time!

Casings:



Internals (inc. Ashcroft ATB):



Service items:



On with the job

Ooh shiny

Wish I had access to a chemical washer for mine.

Might tap you up for some of those shims when you're done if that's OK?

Mr Noisy said:

Particularly want suffix L though!

No rush though mate don't worry I've got loads to sort before mainbox.

Have y'all seen the air solenoid kit that Italian firm whose name escapes me makes?

Very fancy but if prefer cables if anything tbh.

Anyway, one for the future.

For now, it's build time!

Casings:



Internals (inc. Ashcroft ATB):



Service items:



On with the job

Click to expand...

Oooooo.. nice!

you'l have to do a review on the ATB once its all sorted

Oh and whats that weird plate bit on the 1st pic, is it a cooler?

Bennehboy yeah I've fitted the shims that came out as a first, then if that's no good I'll be having to try some others, but yeah when I'm done I'm done so no worries!

Will be very interested to see how the ATB does, and that is a high capacity sump, replaces the bottom cover. Also has cooler fins.

Bit overkill probably but you know, in for a penny...

How are you checking the preload? Ashcroft's told me to do the intermediate and diff seperately and check for 'light drag' - not entirely show how that's gonna work

The D2 box doesn't have the collapsible spacer on the intermediate shaft, it's a selectable one, but I've yet to see anyone offering different length versions which leads me to believe that Ashcroft's just bang in any old one - be glad to be proven wrong on that.

Same thing really, got to that stage and found I didn't have the tools, so simply bolted it up and see how or felt.

Diff was firm but smooth on the original shim so it thought that would do, considering the size of the assembly it would take a good grip to spin it anyway. It felt like a new box when done, nice and tight.

And then regards the intermediate, popped the high low collar in neutral and nipped up intermediate shaft but until firstly all slop was gone and then carefully until the intermediate gears had light preload on them

Didn't take much

In my experience if wheel bearings and swivels, they bed in a fair bit so some preload will be good on these new bearings, as long as they aren't overloaded and go tight they'll be happy, they can bed to their desired preload quite easily.

Only thing of interest is the ATB appears locked, although I guess that's just newness or preload, I remember a quaife I had in a civic was tight to spin a wheel by hand

Really looking forward to using this unit now!

OK, so maybe I'm just worrying about it too much and should JFDI.

I think there is a lot of worrying mate yes, lots of people will be doing this by feel, the proper tools are :jaw:

Of course, I may be proven wrong by am exploding transfer case

i have an quafe atb in my mini a and that was tight and virtuly locked when turned works a treat lo.

did you guys come across any issues doing the transfer box im just about to take my 1.4 apart and rebuild it as i changed it and turns out the new ones is not so new lol still cost me 100 notes with the gearbox and for a temp measure it will do while i make my old ones new

Hi pal thanks for the heads up there then

No the lt230 is easy, basis hammers punches pullers drifts etc

Use heat to expand casings and/or bearings to aid fitting

It's not like a main box that requires special pullers etc

Nice thing to build and makes a noticeable difference tbh

my "new one" leaks and clonks and the back lash on it is quite bad and its a 1.2 which has totaly killed my disco towing capacity on 34" tyres i didnt realise i had a 1.4 on it untill i fitted a second hand disco GB and trans in one unit that was sold to me as good the trans its horrid. so my plan is to rebuild the 1.4 trans and swap back to it.
sooner the better too.
anyone used the hd cross pins from Ashcroft?

Yeah mate you need a 1.4 box on anything bigger than 31/32 really!

HD cross pin is a must if you're going that far you might aswell spunk 40 to save you the trouble

Rebuilding the centre diff will get rid of a lot of play also

Some boxes are more worn that others but generally speaking rebuild diff and new input gear shifts most of the slop, must make sure mainbox output splines are good though otherwise you're wasting your time to some extent

Say again though it's a nice item to build for sure, and great to see how it all works in there

I'm about to fit the HD pin to mine.